Flyler

I would suggest reaching out to Mr. Takair to chat. We did a bit of owner assist, and some other work on the plane so I don't have an exact cost for the rigging. I'm sure it depends how much adjustment is needed as well. Looks like you are nearby, maybe it would be a good connection for you! P.S, I'm still a novice but perhaps week could do a CT Mooney meetup one day.

He is local to KOXC and it is indeed takair.

TL;DR: the plane flies straight. I'm sure many of you know Flight Enhancements as the maker of the electric step conversion, and some other nifty items. I have flown in the owners plane with the "Auto Lean" and it is amazing. This is a review of Rob as an A&P, and particularly his skills at rigging my 79 J model. This man knows his Mooneys. I took delivery of a beautiful 201 and while it flew straight enough, it didn't *look straight*. The left side flap was hanging a bit low, and both ailerons were "drooping" down quite a bit. We looked in the manual and it states between 0 and 2 degrees downward is the appropriate range. Rob helped to adjust the ailerons and flaps so they looked proper, and followed the book properly as well. We took it up for a flight. A slight pull to the left. We made another adjustment. Now a very very slight pull to the left and required a little rudder correction. We landed and Rob said, while my face was glowing with happiness about my new plane, "you might want to hop into the FBO for a minute" and he pulled out a pair of pliers and custom made tool. "Oh my god, no" I said and ran away. The final tweaks require slight bending of the trailing edge of the control surfaces and I couldn't watch. I just bought this plane! He finished up, and the sun went down. Next time we went up for a flight, I had almost forgotten about the rigging. Why? Because the plane flew perfectly straight and called no attention to it! Best part is, he didn't have to take the dreadful pliers to the plane again The straight facts are: Rob Takacs is honest, intelligent, well-skilled and a real Mooney pro. He is a true mentor when it comes to his CFI duties but that is a post for another day. And probably too sappy.

Agreed. I should have said something more along the lines of "I saw it light up a few times when I first got the plane". Thinking back, I may have actually witnessed it burn out when doing the test procedure a few times. While the electric trim is a bit slow, boy is it a pleasure to have. I feel like this new plane is such a luxury compared to the rental Warrior. Flies like a Porsche!! Thank you for your insights sir.

Thank you. I need to verify with the Test button as that should light up the AP light, it may be burnt out or intermittent. I am almost positive I have seen it illuminated on test, but the plane is new to me and I'm really "drinking from the fire hose!"

I am hoping someone with a Century 41 autopilot can shed some light, specifically on the "AP" annunciator. I have read over the C41 manual and could not get a clear answer. It seems that the only time the AP light is mentioned in the manual is when holding down the test button, and that AP will "flash 5 times then remain off" when the autopilot is disengaged. Is the AP light meant to stay on while the autopilot is engaged? I feel silly typing this out as it seems like such a "duh, read the manual" question.

I have a new aviation friend and mentor (he's on this forum) and he is nearly finished with his complete restoration of a Pitts with an NX tail number. I can't wait to show him this and call him an "amateur"!

A friend sent me a false ADS-B track of a Cessna 152 at something like 24,000ft and 400kts. I figured maybe it was using the new swift 100 fuel.

On my 79 J we recently found the field wire to be broken right where it connects to the alternator. Possible it is breaking on yours and giving a warning sign. I just had my head in/under the instrument panel and on my plane the Voltage Regulator is under the glareshield on the right side, if that helps.

So sorry to hear this

If you're willing to take it to Daytona Beach, Jake at Daytona Aircraft Services did a pre-buy on a plane that I did not end up buying. He seemed to know Mooneys well, and had a strong "no bullshit" attitude.

It's okay, your truthful and 100% accurate assessment of my tractor is payment enough.

@LANCECASPER Sir, as per our DM I have agreed to print and send a few of these parts free of charge, however, there is a request. Other than my Mooney, I do have a prized posession. It is a 1973 Gravely Rider tractor which I have painstakingly spray painted restored. What I request from you is one single compliment about my tractor. DO NOT call it a baby tractor. If you call it a baby tractor, I will not send the parts. My ego is too fragile and cannot tolerate any more "small tractor" insults.

The holes in the cover/guard are certainly good enough. Maybe you can just tell me the center to center spacing? I think all of the other dimensions are obtainable from the pictures you posted, thanks for that.

OK, now all I need is a more precise picture to help with the hole spacing. I can probably get it from the switch drawing though. Do you know what kind they are? I think on my '79 J they are called "Klixon" and yours look similar.

Can you remove your existing switch guard, put it on a flat bed scanner along with a ruler (you could even print a ruler at 100% scale) and post it or DM me? I can make some in various sizes and ship them to you. If you don't want to remove the existing one (maybe it'll chip the paint) I can try to work from the pictures you sent. It'll probably take about 7 days for them to arrive at your door, if you don't mind waiting.

Do you have your own 3D printer and just need a model, or do you need the part to be printed too?

FWIW, I just did this on my 1979 J, replacing the prestolite. I did have to make a few small modifcations to the baffle, and plan to make a nicer permanent baffle when time allows. If I recall correctly, the mounting bracket was slightly different and the bolt goes through the baffle. It wasn't much, something like 1/8" off. Biggest "air hole" was around the face of the alternator as the shape is quite different.

I was just about to mention to look for this issue. I have a pile of replacements sitting on my desk, waiting to be installed. Mine are all broken as well.

I think that plane was for sale recently. Judging by the pictures, the top, bottom, both left and right sides, front and back of the plane, on the inside and on the outside, all absolutely beautiful. Looks like the tail was put on backwards though.

It will be a huge relief to have it back at home safe and sound. Really glad to hear it!

Check the bore hole of the down lock block to make sure it doesn't have a step worn into it. You want to get a good look at it anyways, to make sure it isn't too oval-shaped from wear. There have been some gear collapses due to this.

What switch covers are we talking about? I just reverse engineered one from my 201. Happy to share... Just need to do one more test fit.

I might be interested in buying the AP for spares. Would you mind messaging me with some pictures, and any additional info, such as overhaul dates? It would not be immediate as I am still learning my plane, haven't even turned the autopilot on in flight yet.

@birdofjoy I apologize as this isn't helping to answer your question- but I noticed what looks like an altitude preselect. Is that a Century 41 Autopilot as well? I'm curious about your setup as I learn about my new (to me ) plane that is sporting a C41 and 530w. I was considering going with the IFD540 down the line, maybe an Aspen... actually, your old panel is a lot like what I was considering.