Lax291

That's my understanding of it now. If you want GPS capability you need to purchase the cellular enabled tablet. However, you don't need an active cellular plan to use the GPS chip.

Curious of the split between WiFi only vs Cellular enabled tablets. I currently have WiFi only (CB) but the more I think about a possible failure of my GPS I’m liking the idea of having the cell chip in the iPad as a backup. Let me know your thoughts!

Thanks Scott, much appreciated! I'm down a few times a year visiting my parents (Naples) and in-laws (Venice) and will take you up on that offer next time I'm there. My goal is once I get my instrument rating to fly down to Naples, looks like a great airport to land at especially if you come in over the water.

If you make it down to Southwest FL and want to see planes landing and departing (almost non-stop) check out the viewing area right at the approach end of 05 at Naples airport. There's a covered area to protect from the sun, bathrooms, and a speaker tuned to the tower. Caught this green M20J before departure. And this TBM 930, which the wife now wants.

I ordered mine from Skybolt Aeromotive and was happy with ordering/shipping and quality. https://www.skybolt.com/fasteners/cloc-2000/ If you're able to look at the head of the fastener, it should have the size stamped on it and as mentioned, get a few longer and shorter. One other recommendation, go with the flathead and not the phillips. Flat head is much easier to visually see if a lock is not seated as all the screw heads will be parallel when seated. Only downside is you have to be more careful turning the screw as the driver can slip easily and scratch the paint, don't ask me how I know... They sell a fastener that has an adjustable depth, haven't tried it but sounds like it could come in handy to cover a wide range of thickness.

Sharing a video I really enjoyed and which helped me better connect some of what I read here to where it is on the engine. Being new to aviation, sometimes it's hard to follow the more seasoned members' explanations, but this video has helped me and hope it can do the same for other's in learning more about their engines. Happy viewing and have to love the Canadian accents!

Not sure if coincidental, but when I looked on the backside of the cowling I could see the repair, but I noticed it was exactly where brackets was mounted for the cowl flaps.

Yup, that's what I used. That tube will last you about 500 years based on the little amount needed. This is the PM schedule for the 2000 Series I believe where they call out AS22

Please excuse my ignorance, I believe it's the intake tube (at least know it's not the exhaust) that is leaking. This is the #2 cylinder and what you're seeing is after a run up post oil change. 1-Have I diagnosed it correctly? 2-Anything I can fix on my own? 3-Should I be taking it to the mechanic ASAP or wait for annual in August?

Thanks for looking at that. When I looked through the hole again it looked like a little more clearance. I guess I'll keep an eye on it for now. Appreciate the help as always!

Here are pictures from the side. The distance on top is ~14mm and bottom is ~16mm.

The 3M dual lock was a great solution for me. It took a small piece on the top and bottom of my ANR controller to secure it to the side panel. Have had 0 issues with it falling off and when I need to change batteries it pulls off easily without damaging the plastic panel.

I have the 100 series and pulled them out to clean, lube with Aeroshell 22. and set the up/down limits so they would fully retract. Was very easy to do and if you are at all mechanically inclined you should have no trouble. If you have the same series and run into any questions, happy to assist if I can.

You were reading my mind.

What is the recommended lube, Tri-flow?

Think I've found 2 sources of the oil leaks. #1 Oil filler tube, v will be replacing with the real gasket. #2 Found the tube on the underside of the oil separator very loose and oil chasing down. Looked at the clamp and it was loose and looked like it slipped as well. Pushed tube back up to the top and tightened. Hopefully this helps.

Just took off the bottom cowling and looks like the muffler has a lip that's sticking out and it's the thin metal line that can be seen from my original pictures. Was thinking I would just crimp this more flush with the muffler body.

This had my laughing...until I realized I did a flight from CT to NJ last weekend. Wonder of Bruce's Custom Covers is starting to make flack jackets for the cowlings...

Appreciate the point out. I have dropped the cowl flap before, but was thinking while I'm doing the oil change I'll just take everything off. Maybe when I disconnect the flap I'll do a quick look to see if I can get eyes on what's right up against the hole. Appreciate the clarification!

Will be doing an oil change this weekend so cowl will come off and I can investigate more. I'll post whatever I can find.

I was checking tire pressures and something caught my eye on the bottom cowling, a hole that I'm pretty sure has not been there for the past 1.5 years I've had the plane. It looks like a repair was done to that same area previously and maybe for the same reason? Anyone seen this before, or have an idea of what cause it?

Hey @Rsmithref I'm out of central CT, HFD. J Late to the reply as I didn't get notified and just checked on my update! This came off my 90 J MSE, should be 24v, here's another picture of the tag.

Adding updated photo with product tag. Working great when I removed.

If this is the bulb you're looking for, I replaced one earlier this year and eBay was very reasonable. Bought this exact one and fit perfectly after trimming the leads. https://www.ebay.com/itm/385507327720

I know I'm beating this horse but adding some more photos. I'm not too concerned as the oil loss appears to be within normal range. Spanned a few photos through the cowl flaps today. Edit: Photos got uploaded in random order. From left cowl flap, photos 3, 4, 5. The rest are from the right side.