Lax291

Sorry to light this fuse, but interesting video from the American Bonanza Society. Wondering if it changes people's thoughts on how they handle a go-around? Would be interesting to see the same test in a Mooney.

I had mine done by Sarasota Avionics there. The guy I worked with was very responsive and communicated often so very happy with him. I had a big annual with them after the purchase and while it mostly went well there were a few things I felt they should have caught that they didn't. If you can take it a little further south, Sarasota Avionics has another location in Venice and I believe that is where the Mooney specific people are located so I would check them out.

If they look like this from the top, then through the access panel on the bottom. There should be a metal bracket on the underside (maybe 2, can't exactly recall) after panel is removed, that you have to unscrew and swivel as well as remove all the screws from the top, as shown below. There will also be a twist lock connector you'll have to undo before you can get the cartridge out. Once everything is disconnected I recall having to manipulate the cartridge somewhat to fit through the opening.

Removed and cleaned eyeball vents from pilot and CP side. Just used contact cleaner and compressed air and they are 100% better. I think I read someone's comment about needing to push them in and twist, I do believe that is true and helpful although it's almost an imperceptible amount of travel when pushed. Some pictures of the vent cleaned and all the gunk from just 1 of them.

Interesting, was able to get over there today and grab one of the last two LPS 2 cans they had. They also carry Tri-Flo there too, love that place.

Thanks, will be picking up some LPS 2 at Ace tomorrow.

Hey @TangoTango link here: https://themooneyflyer.com/tools.html a few lines down it's called "Aircraft Status Sheet". Been very helpful and keep it on my google drive so I can access it via phone to update or review.

Found a great spreadsheet early on that tracks things like registration renewal, oil changes, time since overhaul, compressions, no back clutch spring replacement (ouch) and lots more. One of the sections is titled "Recurring Pilot Maintenance" and I included a picture of it. I've got the check tires and lube fuel caps down, but cannot find anything specific on how and what to lube for the flight controls. Can anyone help with that line item as to what should be lubricated every 4 months on the controls, confirm if DC-4 is best, and add any additional recommendations? 1990 M20J. Thanks!

That's my understanding of it now. If you want GPS capability you need to purchase the cellular enabled tablet. However, you don't need an active cellular plan to use the GPS chip.

Curious of the split between WiFi only vs Cellular enabled tablets. I currently have WiFi only (CB) but the more I think about a possible failure of my GPS I’m liking the idea of having the cell chip in the iPad as a backup. Let me know your thoughts!

Thanks Scott, much appreciated! I'm down a few times a year visiting my parents (Naples) and in-laws (Venice) and will take you up on that offer next time I'm there. My goal is once I get my instrument rating to fly down to Naples, looks like a great airport to land at especially if you come in over the water.

If you make it down to Southwest FL and want to see planes landing and departing (almost non-stop) check out the viewing area right at the approach end of 05 at Naples airport. There's a covered area to protect from the sun, bathrooms, and a speaker tuned to the tower. Caught this green M20J before departure. And this TBM 930, which the wife now wants.

I ordered mine from Skybolt Aeromotive and was happy with ordering/shipping and quality. https://www.skybolt.com/fasteners/cloc-2000/ If you're able to look at the head of the fastener, it should have the size stamped on it and as mentioned, get a few longer and shorter. One other recommendation, go with the flathead and not the phillips. Flat head is much easier to visually see if a lock is not seated as all the screw heads will be parallel when seated. Only downside is you have to be more careful turning the screw as the driver can slip easily and scratch the paint, don't ask me how I know... They sell a fastener that has an adjustable depth, haven't tried it but sounds like it could come in handy to cover a wide range of thickness.

Sharing a video I really enjoyed and which helped me better connect some of what I read here to where it is on the engine. Being new to aviation, sometimes it's hard to follow the more seasoned members' explanations, but this video has helped me and hope it can do the same for other's in learning more about their engines. Happy viewing and have to love the Canadian accents!

Not sure if coincidental, but when I looked on the backside of the cowling I could see the repair, but I noticed it was exactly where brackets was mounted for the cowl flaps.

Yup, that's what I used. That tube will last you about 500 years based on the little amount needed. This is the PM schedule for the 2000 Series I believe where they call out AS22

Please excuse my ignorance, I believe it's the intake tube (at least know it's not the exhaust) that is leaking. This is the #2 cylinder and what you're seeing is after a run up post oil change. 1-Have I diagnosed it correctly? 2-Anything I can fix on my own? 3-Should I be taking it to the mechanic ASAP or wait for annual in August?

Thanks for looking at that. When I looked through the hole again it looked like a little more clearance. I guess I'll keep an eye on it for now. Appreciate the help as always!

Here are pictures from the side. The distance on top is ~14mm and bottom is ~16mm.

The 3M dual lock was a great solution for me. It took a small piece on the top and bottom of my ANR controller to secure it to the side panel. Have had 0 issues with it falling off and when I need to change batteries it pulls off easily without damaging the plastic panel.

I have the 100 series and pulled them out to clean, lube with Aeroshell 22. and set the up/down limits so they would fully retract. Was very easy to do and if you are at all mechanically inclined you should have no trouble. If you have the same series and run into any questions, happy to assist if I can.

You were reading my mind.

What is the recommended lube, Tri-flow?

Think I've found 2 sources of the oil leaks. #1 Oil filler tube, v will be replacing with the real gasket. #2 Found the tube on the underside of the oil separator very loose and oil chasing down. Looked at the clamp and it was loose and looked like it slipped as well. Pushed tube back up to the top and tightened. Hopefully this helps.

Just took off the bottom cowling and looks like the muffler has a lip that's sticking out and it's the thin metal line that can be seen from my original pictures. Was thinking I would just crimp this more flush with the muffler body.