Dick Denenny

I just love the wit and humour that comes across these pages. Thanks

Is this something we can do as owner maintenance?

Thanks for all the comments. Sometimes we forget how many models there are and the differences. Mine is a 1966 M20E. The circuit breakers are on the lower right side. Very easily accessable and have only two screws and wires. As an add. I was certified marine mechanice with Mercury when I was in my 20s. Dilck

Quick question to the group. Does replacing a circuit breaker fall under Owner Maintenance like replacing a fuse? Thanks Dick

Interestng read: https://scholarship.law.nd.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=3889&context=ndlr

Just curious as to how many out there have had the engine sputter when you can't turn the tank valve fast enough and get caught for a few seconds in the off position. And yes I have made a very nice PVC tool now. Dick

I can't imagine having a better plane than my turbo '66 M20E

I have a '66 M20E with a Ray Jay on it. Should I be able to maintan around 29 to 30 manifold pressure at 12k?

Alright Mooney friends need help. Just had a new rebuild from Western Airways put in my '66 M20E. I had a lot done and more money than I ever expected. New prop etc. Also had a SureFly installed. The engine will start immediately when it is completely cold. If I run it even ten minutes or more and then try to start it will not take. With my other engine I had no problem learning a sequence that let me start it no matter how hot it was. I tried every veriable I can and the only one the works is to completely flood the engine and then crank the hell out of it with no mixture and full throttle and I'm going to ruin my Sky-Tech. Any input. Could the timing be off or what? Wrong plugs? Thanks in advance. Dick

Thanks for the input. That makes sense. I don't have to rewire it and the wires are diffferent. JvsK. I did read they say to use anti seize.

Thank you everyone for you past inpute. I did pick up a used JPI 700 and all the harness and probes I need and am getting ready to install it. Couple of quick questions. As I understand it I need to keep my OEM CHT. So do I connect that probe to a spark plug and the JPI to a bayonet? Do you use a bit of locktite on the probes going in to the heads? Dick

I went the cheap way for my '66 E and got the visor with a ram suction ball. Works when I need it and can take it off if it's in the way. DD

Mine will be finished next week. I pulled some wires out of the dash and am not sure of the connection so am having a radio guy connect for me. But this is what I ended up with after buying a few the wrong size. https://www.amazon.com/DIYhz-Button-Self-locking-Switches-Latching/dp/B07XT6K5B8?pd_rd_w=d40ej&content-id=amzn1.sym.d1bf6bee-b588-4538-8422-ca1ad75c6390&pf_rd_p=d1bf6bee-b588-4538-8422-ca1ad75c6390&pf_rd_r=5PD971SFETV9K9MJ0QF3&pd_rd_wg=JYzFC&pd_rd_r=094fbc2f-00b8-4296-91a6-36d32ae156f1&pd_rd_i=B07XT6K5B8&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_i

Thanks everyone. This is what I was looking for. Possible options for a temporary install to protect the engine which I have never had with the intent of getting full panel next year or so. DD

What would you do? I just had a new reman from Western put in my 66 M20E with a Ray Jay. I would like to get a temporary engine monitor. This new engine took all my money for now but would like to get a Dynon system next year or a little late. What would be the most practical and efficient monitor to get for the interim time? Preferably if possible used. Thanks, Dick