c1tice

I have the GB engine. Temps are 360 on #6 to 420 on #2 at 33 MAP and 2300 RPM at 6000', and about the same temps with 30 MAP 2500 RPM at 12000'. Just curious why the POH says one thing and TCM and "convential wisdom" are different. Intuitatively cooler CHT, to a point, makes sense for less wear but we wear things out just by using them. Makes me wonder what other POH guidlines we should ignore, make up our own or just change altogether, kind of reminds me of the Bible haha. To another point the baffeling could stand to be replaced, as we have been tweaking it for the last several annuals, that would cool things down a bit.

I just downloaded the data from my JPI-930 for the first time after the upgrade. I got CHT high readings on many flights. I did some research here on MS and much discussion was to keep the CHT below 400. The line on Savvy was at 400. (JPI does not support Mac I learned.) My manual says max CHT is 460. My JPI is set to 460 from the installiation. I have never gotten above 460 during a flight. Why / where is the descripency? Is the fact that this is a turbo the difference? None of the discussions I reviewed really stated the engine, ie turbo vs NA.

I bought a K with 110 hours smoh in 6 years. I have had no engine trouble in the 200 hours I have put on it in 2 years, knock on wood. It sat for a while outside in FL. Discovered some corrosion below the window in the frame tubing. It was caught just in time. Point is just do a very through prebuy. Change the oil, cut the filter, remove inspection panels and interior side walls is my recommendation. If it looks good go for it, just have some $ in reserve. Something will come up.

I did just that, installed a GFC 500 to replace my 42 year old KFC 150 that had already been repaired by the Autopilots Central in Oklahoma for $3000. They did a fine job and something else broke on it 6 months later. I chose to upgrade rather than be with out the AP for months and throwing good money at a unit that at some point will be unrepairable.

Check out the picture and explanation below. I am surprised how quickly I am acclimating to the glass. I kept the old airspeed indicator for that reason but I am getting used to digital.

You are right. They put the OAT probe on the vent on the engine cowling just a few inches from the engine. I didn’t think about that.

Ragsf15e is right the lower 275 is a backup. You can turn the knob to display ant time. There is also a switch which is default to auto so the system should know if the primary fails.

Amazing how much info is in those 275’s

Here are pics of the before and after of my 81’ 231 panel upgrade. It was 2 years in the making. Removed vacuum system, replaced problematic autopilot and so many more upgrades. Went from state of the art 1981 to a modern marvel for someone that learned to fly 30 plus years ago. First big trip after the upgrade, KGSO to Chicago Exec the KMMU. Check out the situation in the upgrade photo, 38 degrees F, 13000’ in the clouds on O2, 195 kts GS 12.8 gph. This is why I have a Mooney. 5 minutes after this photo was taken I watched the airspeed rapidly slow….slow…slow to 50 kts. I lowered the nose out of training, turned off the AP, realized I am not spinning and my stall warning horn was NOT sounding, thought to myself turn on the pitot heat, suddenly I am now going 200 kts or there about. I did not yank on the yolk but turned on the AP and set the VS to 200’ up. All still in the clouds. My wife was shook. Total time of the event less than 1 minute. I knew I had lots of time to recover and I did not want to rip the plane apart. I wonder how many before me have not lived from a similar situation. So proud of how I recovered from such a dangerous situation but what a dumb ass to not turn on the pitot heat below 40 in the clouds. Flying is like that keeps us humble. Enjoy the panel photo. Turn on the pitot heat

Look what we found while installing a new GFC500 in my 1981 M20K. My mechanic says we caught it in time and needs a good sanding and treatment. This Mooney sat on the ramp in FL for a few years before I bought it 2 years ago. Might I suggest a look behind the panels and under the windows during the next PPI to check for leaks and corrosion, which I did not do but will next time. This is why our birds need to be in a hanger, in my opinion. Also going to replace that water holding insulation. I would like to see your corrosion photos too so we know what to look for.

It is opening. The knob slides out and MP changes.

In my 1981 M20K the alt air will not stay closed. It works it way open about every 2 minutes. It is worse the higher and faster I go. Anyone have any suggestions that don’t involve duct tape?

My door has popped open about 5 times in 3 years of 231 ownership. Not a huge deal. Last time after it happened on 3 attempted takeoffs I contacted my mechanic and he came and adjusted it. Now it closes smoothly. He had me take a picture of the latch and I thought it was a cool picture.

I am based at KGSO, in the bulk hanger at Signature. I have an alarm company in High Point, Protection Systems Inc. Email me when you are in town if you like maybe get lunch. Chris@protectionsystemsinc.com. Good luck with the panel upgrade! My avionics shop said Garmin was 6 months out on GTN’s these days so I hope your new additions are available.

I did 2 GI275'ss and a GTN750 after a vacuum pump failure. I see no reason for a vacuum pump with 2 GI275's. One interesting thing I experienced was when I engaged the KFC200 I would get wild pitch changes and I finally realized, with the help of MS, that the GI275 command bars remembered the last setting so now I press the CWS button to realign the command bars to current flight attitude. The G5's while cheaper would not interface with my KFC200 according to the avionics shop. Good choice I say. I think you will be happy, I am.