Fritz1

lots of lore, to my best knowledge not approved by any aviation engine manufacturer, have used it in oil as a detergent 1h before oil change, oil definitely turns darker, what are the pros and cons, not sure, do the pros outweigh the cons, don't know and don't have any in my hangar, using Phillips XC which appears to be doing just fine with 25h oil changes in Bravo engine, MMO appears to do a good job as a ring flushing agent, residue burns off easily after flushing is done

BAS is parting out Bravo with the newer fiberglass interior, unique opportunity to buy all the parts in one shot, cant hurt to call them to see what is still there

B-Cool draws about 5A at 12V, running for 1h this drains a small car battery, 5A comes out of the aircraft electrical system easily once the engine is running unless you are running all the lights, all pumps and the pitot heat on top of it

well looks like you are getting somewhere, do not have data logging on my EDM 700, looking at the intake, check the spouts that run into the oil sump, blue stain shows leak, there is a Lycoming tool to swedge the bead in the short spouts so they seal against the oil sump again, tighten all clamps on rubber connectors of the intake tubes, baffles should press snug against the cowl, replacing dead pieces and sealing all nooks and crannies with RTV can really drop CHT, any light that shines through the baffles indicates lost ram air, keep pushing and your bird will be fine tuned on no time

Yes, meant to say 380 CHT, 480 absolute meltdown

EGTs can vary between cylinders based on probe position and probe angle, the exhaust runners in the Bravo engine are short and not well tuned, flow patterns in the exhaust runners vary with rpm, throttle position and fuel flow, thus temp, keep your TIT below 1580 and your CHTs below 480, the engine will purr and more than likely make TBO, Gamis and fine wire plugs help in the Bravo engine, I run the engine at 2250 rpm 30.5" for max continuous cruise, lower rpm and higher boost appears to produce more complete combustion, thus lower EGTs, when stretching range I reduce power to 2250 rpm 26" while maintaining 1580 TIT

rear seat belt can hold B-cool, I have dual batteries, run B-cool on #1, start airplane on #2, pre-cool airplane in hangar battery minder plugged in, top off ice to the brim, pull out airplane with B-cool running, jump into cool airplane, B-cool will run about 45 min when really topped, it helps to fill bottom with large ice blocks from plastic food containers, increases mass, top off with ice from FBO ice machine, not perfect but refrigeration system costs 100x more and is typically permanently installed so it has to be carried around in winter

Bravo heater has plenty of heat with cabin and heat ducts sealed well, I had a cold air leak from wemac valve in pilot footwell, butterfly in heat valve in copilot footwell has bleed openings that can be sealed for additional power, plenty of heat at cruise down to -30F, not so much during taxi and climb, airflow through heat muff is just not there, send all heat through defrost blower up to windshield, keep rag handy for wiping frost from inside of windshield

Knots2U has couple of new parts, call Lasar, whatever they do not have they will know where to find, some parts may be worth repairing others are best used as drill templates, ABS gets brittle, rattles and may just crack somewhere else, depends also on how much time you want to spend

all very candid remarks, value of the plane is salvage, unless you are retired and an A&P IA and have done this kind of project before stay away and find an airplane that is ready to go

one guy really got me last year, when I asked him to send pictures he said he was getting chemo, I felt sorry, he asked for paypal friends and family, I did paypal business transaction what saved me, got full refund from paypal within 2 weeks, definitely ask for pictures, talk on the phone, use paypal for business transactions

If this is for an off market transaction contact insurance brokers, they deal with appraisers, get three appraisals and take the average which will preclude most arguments

More of a art than a science, Jimmy Garrison probably knows more about it than anybody else that I am aware of, don't think there is an FAA approved appraiser, your best bet is to take Jimmy's table and get recent comps, thus actual numbers that Bravos sold for recently, then test the market, if you are selling put it up for sale or if you are buying make offers

Cleaning and servicing can't hurt, however this sounds like one of the microswitches is worn or out of alignment, if last overhaul is more than 10 years ago best to send to precise flight for IRAN

Get a quote for painting the white on the top cowl and talk to the owner, he may not even know that this happened

clock in my 2000 Bravo runs on a AA battery, as stated before leaving any of the interior lights on kills the #1 battery, watch out, think the last Concord that I bought six months ago was $800

Think clock has AA battery, you get to it when you remove the glare shield, do not think the Bravo has a fuse panel in the tail cone, trace the wires directly from the #1 battery which is the left battery, you will find the in line fuses somewhere in the wiring in the tail cone

Interior lights and baggage compartment light are wired directly to one of the batteries, check the bulbs first, baggage compartment light is on a timer, switch is on left side of baggage compartment door, if bulbs good locate the fuse(s) in the avionics compartment, if interior lights and baggage compartment light are on the same fuse and that fuse is blown, you found the cause for the entire outage. The timer for the baggage compartment light timer has been known to die, I bought a replacement from BAS salvage, Don Muncie makes a replacement timer if memory serves. The usual failure mode for the timer is, however, to stay on and not go out which kills an expensive battery, the bulb in the baggage light may simply have been removed to prevent that from happening. Welcome aboard!

Rick, thank you, one more piece in the puzzle!

No easy answer, after having 3 airplanes painted you have a general idea what to look for, get three references of recently painted airplanes from each shop that you consider, talk to the owners, a fair job without fancy graphics will be about $30k, an excellent job close to $40k and may take 3 months, large amount of disassembly and prep work, very hard and dirty work, find out what environmental control system for temp and humidity exists, learn what you can about painting before you make your choice

Interesting, did not know

very curious how this goes, wondering about valve seat recession, that was what stopped the trials at UND University of North Dakota about a year ago, thought about putting a set of Bravo cylinders on the shelf and held off until this shakes out, cylinders with improved valve seats may be needed to handle the unleaded avgas, keep us posted

I got rid of my mechanical standby vacuum pump when I bought the Bravo, switch was stuck and standby pump was running all the time, installed RC Allen 2600 electric horizon instead, still like that setup, vacuum and electric, two different sources of energy, one will keep working even if there is a zombie apocalypse

Call C&W in Caldwell, they are a service center and may have a long body in the shop

Get a second and a third opinion on the crack, there may be none