Fritz1

take the panel below the master cylinders off to see if anything is dripping, chances are the O-rings are leaking, I resealed the pilot masters on my 2000 Bravo this summer, same story, most important thing to do after reseal is to submerge the cylinders in 5606 and pump them back and forth a gazillion times until absolutely no bubbles come out, then fill the system from the bottom and connect the masters without introducing any air

as stated before, simplest thing to do is use the old panels as templates to cut new sheet metal panels

second that, solid airframe without corrosion, engine that is flown regularly, one decent radio, 530W or 430W, then comes the rest, airplanes that are paid for in cash typically sound best and pilot sleeps well at night, welcome aboard!

According to Cirrus CAPS training manual minimum safe deployment altitude is 500ft, probably somewhere between vx and vy

Interesting, did not know, beyond any doubt, the CAPS has saved lives and Cirrus sells about 500 singles per year

installed electroair and removed it, use slick start mag booster on the left mag, solved hot start problems

There was a LASAR kit with a deeper wing root fairing that is rumored to increase speed and reduce stall speed, had it on my G-model, differences too small for me to notice at the time though

Think this is not a one and done, friend of mine had his seats done by well renowned aircraft upholstery shop, claims they are less comfortable now than before, buy the best certified stuff you can, have it cut to match what is in there, listen to what the upholstery shop recommends, try it for a couple of hours, then redo it if you have to, seating position and shore hardness of foam is a very personal thing, my airplane has lumbar supports in the front seats, when I bought the plane they were both broken, after I repaired them I really started to like them, bring them out more and more towards the end of a long flight, you may come up with a fixed lumbar support made from really dense foam material, enjoy the journey, no seat feels as good as the one you have upholstered yourself

If temps have come down break in is complete, cam guard to my best understanding is both, an anti scuffing agent and an anti corrosion agent, if you fly at least once a week you do not need the anti corrosion agent, gut feel I would give it one oil regular change interval, typically 25 or 50h depending on engine, before adding the camguard, others will chime in that know more

nice, hope fiberglass glare shield does not have any more electromagnetic resistance than this cover, will fire up the GDL51 under the glareshield this week and time the download

good point, will simply try it out, have the GDL51 mounted in tray on top of transponder in right stack under glareshield, I have the remote antenna which I can mount on top of the glareshield if there are any issues, my old GXM42 antenna was mounted on the glareshield and I think it got fried from the heat, lasted about 5 years

on the copilot side of the wheel well there is an idler arm with a bushing that rides on a vertical #10 bolt, stop nut at the bottom of that bolt tends to work itself loose, after trying to tighten it with a new stop nut that worked itself loose again I put in a new bolt and drilled it for a cotter pin and a castellation nut, holding tight now, typically worn Heim joints add some slop, last not least the steering horn can be shimmed, think there are 3 or 4 sizes of shims, Lasar has them. overall your play does not look terrible, not sure if the service manual says what is permissible

installed a GDL51 receiver in the right panel stack under the glareshield, felt too bulky to install on top of glareshield, use to feed XM weather to my handheld 796 via bluetooth, wondering whether anybody has done this install and whether XM signal is strong enough to go through composite glareshield or whether additional XM antenna should be plugged into GDL51 and put on top of glareshield, black glareshield gets hot in flight, plug in antenna is also black, soo wondering what is better, GDL51 under glareshield or antenna that gets hot on top of glareshield, opinions?

Curious how this plays out, take pics of fuel pickup tube when access panel is out, think this is a 1/2" tube with holes drilled into it, takes a lot of debris to clog up, glad everybody walked away and no metal was bent

called airpower since they were showing stock, ordered one and will put under X-mas tree

Lance has a good point, my personal choice would have been Gann, comes down to the question are the exhaust valve and the guide available and what does the bore of the existing cylinder look like

Look up Hector price list and yokes at BAS salvage

will check on the firewall SB, replaced wastegate last year and SB is somewhere in the paperwork, as for overhaling that cylinder if you must, It cannot be bored since nitride hardened, can only be honed, as stated before availability of exhaust valve and guide will determine timing, I have heard good things about Gann aviation and Gibson cylinders, when in doubt call Jimmy Garrison at GmaxAmerican, think he still has a personal Bravo and might know where a cylinder can be found, welcome aboard!

If you are dropping the exhaust and it has more than 1000h and most of it was put on by a previous owner overhauling that exhaust might be an excellent idea for the reasons stated above. There is an SB installing an additional firewall baffle above the wastegate and behind the turbo transition Y, make sure that is installed

I am ordering a cylinder today so I have it and never need it, 3 months is awesome!

If the installed base is 7500 airplanes and each is worth $100k that makes an installed base worth $750M. What percentage of the base does it take to fix the problem? 1%? 2%? The financials indicate that a solution will be found that keeps the fleet in the air

Before you balance prop make sure the blade play in the hub is within limits, track the blade tips to make sure blades are not bent

Clean thoroughly with mineral spirits, spray with dye penetrant developer, run engine to get 150 dF oil temp, shut down and look for oil trail

Brian is worth every penny!

excellent!