Fritz1

I am with Don, ROP, 30" 2300, about 18.5 gph, about 78% power, Gamis .3 spread, Tempest fine wires, my engine just does not appear to like LOP, no intake or exhaust leaks, think you can do max 65% power LOP, going higher than 65% temps will go through the limits, semi religious question maybe, smarter people will find good reasons either way

Matterhorn White is rather forgiving, however as stated before all depends where the painted surface is and how large it is, noting wrong with giving a small spot a try, if it looks worse than before you can still take it to a shop, cowls and anything that you can remove is easy because you can take it to an auto paint shop with climate control and they will most likely do a good job, bottom line, try a small spot with the Matterhorn White, see how it turns out, cover the rest of the airplane well

Got it, exhaust is the weakest part in Bravo engine, therefore 1580 dF is a good number for max TIT

looks like crack in turbo transition, was that visible with the bare eye or only visible with soap water throwing bubbles?

when reapplied correctly with CS3204 should last "forever", think the factory used some greenish epoxi and that stuff tends to get brittle after about 20 years, and absolutely a little wiggle during preflight or at least at every oil change can't hurt

get part # from IPC and google part #, they are quite pricy new, think in the range of $2-$3k, make sure to mount at the exact spot, residual glue is good indicator, use CS3204 tank sealant to attach new one, clean panel thoroughly with appropriate solvent, alcohol works well, you also need some triangular filler foam to distribute fluid in stall strip, CAV aerospace has that foam

as stated the service manual has all the info, if memory serves me right CS3204 is used for the access panels and the screw in the wingwalk, this is as far as I have taken it, everything beyond that is best done by somebody who reseals tanks for a living, to my best knowledge there are 3 companies that strip and reseal tanks, weep no more, wet wingologist and a company in Houston, there are quite a few shops that are perfectly capable of patching a tank, however if the sealant is more than 20 years old strip and reseals typically is the only procedure that produces a reliable result, typically 7 year warranty after strip and reseal

make sure CHT thermocouples read the same when cold, when in doubt swap around, clean thermocouple connectors, difference can be caused by a lot of factors including respective cylinders still breaking in

under the rudder tube is probably better, wire will move down under g-load, will work on mine tomorrow to finish annual and snap a pic

bought visors from Don about 2 years ago, work very well, perfect size

On a long body it is somewhere between 35 and 40 KT, landed at KIAD RWY 01 with 35 gusting 40 Kt from 270 about a year ago, runway is 150ft wide, lined up with one of the high speed taxiways, use full flaps, reduces the risk of a stall or tail strike in gusty conditions, started on the right side of the runway and traversed it to the left towards the high speed taxiway, nobody complained

Jimmy Garrison at Gmax American has a valuation guide, contact him and he will send it to you, not sure of Vref on the AOPA website still works, comparing listings on controller, tradeaplane and barnstormer gives you an idea

Slowly expand your envelope, the Mooney can be landed safely at much higher crosswinds than the 12 kt listed in most POHs if the runway is long enough, you land the upwind wheel first

Get part numbers out of Lycoming parts catalog, see if you can order through Spruce, call two more Lycoming dealers like air power and Triad, the you know for sure what is going on

Simple things first, reseal whatever gaps you find, clean electrical connectors in oil temp circuit, if vernatherm was not taken out chances are slim that there is anything wrong with it, think of things that were changed or disassembled during annual

Check the friction of the yoke shaft ball in the panel, make sure ball moves freely, when in doubt clean ball and shaft with contact cleaner, lube all joints of elevator control linkage with triflo, chances are something is dragging somewhere, do not lube ball or yoke shaft, if ball stuck, take bearing off instrument panel, move around, clean with contact cleaner and remount

Weep no more or wet wingologist east, they each do about one airplane per week, they recirculate the stripper with a pump, lots of know how in the process, Weep no more did my tanks 6 years ago, zero leaks, each of them have done thousands of tanks, their sealant never gets old on the shelf because of their high throughput, very hard job

CAV is usually pretty good about this stuff, just call all their numbers on Monday, somebody will eventually answer the phone and sell you what you need, I re-glued all of my TKS stall strips 3 years ago since one was about to fall off, used CS tank sealant for glue, takes several cleanings to get TKS panel really dry for gluing, masked with aluminum tape, filled strip with new CAV foam, works fine

lots of mountains in Slowenia, icing ugly, no NEXRAD, RIP!

VAT or sales tax is much higher in most European countries, IFR ticket more complicated to get and currency more complicated since weather much more diverse per distance traveled, Europe is much further North than most of the US, Rome Italy is at the latitude of New York City, colder, more icing than most of the US

suction screen

take the suction tube out, yes it is a bitch, bigger pieces may be lodged there, sending the collected debris and the filter paper off for analysis may still tell you something, you want to know where this stuff is coming from, costs very little and then make the best decision you can whether to keep running the engine or tearing it down

yes, by all means, further investigation is prudent, I think there is a contorted way to stick a borescope into the engine, either through the oil filler spout or through the oil drain, I have never done it myself, your A&P will know, then you can see at least one cam lobe, this lobe may already give you the answer, the evil you know is better than the evil you don't know, I keep fingers crossed!

Like buying a core, new Bravo would be in excess of $1.2 M, effort to restore core somewhat comparable to resurrecting vintage racecar, people who have a running specimen are very fortunate

eventually there is a selling price for everything, final piece of the puzzle may be a loan outstanding on the aircraft, once upon a time I was fixated on a particular aircraft, did the mother of all prepurchase inspections only to find out that there was a loan on the aircraft that exceeded by far what I was ready to pay for it ever, loan will show up in the title search, but not the amount, however, magically loans tend to gravitate around the asking price