Fritz1

This is a fancy one that includes low/high pitot heat, doubt the offer is real, call Lasar to get a price

switch has 2 wires and is adjustable, I would try adjusting it before taking it apart, if that does not help may still have to take it apart, contacts may have corroded and cleaning may help, these switches are quite expensive, think I bought one for the Bravo 4-5 years ago and it was $1200, if the membrane inside is leaking you may want to look for somebody that overhauls these switches, others will chime in

Any Lycoming dealer like airpower or Triad will be happy to sell the factory reman engine, the nice thing about is that the airplane can be flown until the reman engine shows up, there are many shops like Lycon, Gann or Victor that will do a job as good or better than factory, however aircraft is down during overhaul while waiting for parts e.g. cylinders, considering the many unique parts in this engine, cylinders, exhaust, turbo, wastegate, the reman is a very viable consideration

Yes, looks like drain hole, take acess panel off, peek inside with mirror, compartment probably flooded, then the million $ question becomes what next, how long since last tank reseal?

M20C short body 180 hp, call BAS salvage, quite a few parts will fly again

Looked up the factory reman engine yesterday, lists at $119k, if I were to sell the airplane i would sell it with the high time engine, if I were to buy the airplane I would want to buy it with the high time engine, buyer typically wants an overhaul done his way and the engine will take a while to overhaul / reman, the engine is more than likely good for another couple of hundred hours

Tail tie down has to take the impact of a tail strike, so pulling 100 lb with a winch will not harm it, but installing the winch, wiring it, hooking it up is a hassle, how about a sidewinder instead, moves back and forth, works out of the box

Very careful, this looks like a project plane, can make sense if you are retired, A&P, work on it for a year and buy it close to salvage, BAS can tell you on Monday what salvage is for a early 90s Bravo, factory reman engine with hoses probably is close to $130k, a decent overhaul with new cylinders at least $80k, downtime will tremendous either way, there are other Bravos out there that you can get going for les money with less pain, they typically run between $200k and $300k

Second capping it off and get a an electronic rpm gauge at least, welding this looks more than difficult to me

My tanks were sealed by Weep no more 8 years ago, no leaks, I personally know several people who had wet wingologist in FL reseal their tanks with excellent results, probably best to book either one and keep patching until then. Paul Beck does one plane a week working by himself with one helper, he has a recirculation pump system for the stripper, the sealant is applied by hand in two or three layers which brushes, real art and very hard work, 2 years sounds like a lot, there are always planes dropping out, then Paul calls around to see who might be ready to go

Yes to all, cannot agree more with posh FBOs for wives, my wife is a parsimonius no nonsense bargain shopper, kinda the opposite of me, but last fall we stopped at Texas Jet in Ft Worth, got crew car, girls waiting on her, bag of Texas steak seasoning for a good bye, looved it, 10 years ago stuck in Bozeman MT at the jet center for couple of hours with a mechanical issue, she was watching television on a sofa in a secluded upstairs crew rest area, a girl came up and offered freshly baked chocolate chip cokies, died and gone to heaven, bottom line call ahead and find out which field has and atmosphere that appeals to women and children. Guys have fond memories of landing at a windblown field right before a bad storm, ride to town with the mechanic, get the last room in the only hotel, make it across the street to the local joint just before the downpour really hits, have big steak and a couple of beers with the locals and start worrying about anything else in the morning, women don't think that is funny at all, ask me how I know...

Long story, PM me if interested

Jetdriven had one about 2 weeks ago, his phone is 484 435 9776, maybe he still has it

Trace the ignition leads make sure both mags are wired correctly, the spark plug nuts say where they should go, but the markings may be wrong

A good place to gather information regarding the pros and cons and ins and of owning an airplane and a particular model is to talk to the shops that work on them, in southern Europe Aeromechanica in Switzerland and ACG, RAS, and MAS in Germany come to mind, Roeder Praezision in Germany used to be a good engine shop 30 years ago, being a first time buyer a Savvy subscription might be a good idea, they can orchestrate a pre purchase inspection, and help support the airplane down the road, these airplanes are supported by a cottage industry and most of that industry is in the US, making contacts there will be extremely helpful, once bought you are responsible for every nut and bolt and hose and gauge, learn what you can and then choose wisely, enjoy the journey!

You will figure it out, turbo does not really help on a 1.5h flight, but you need it to climb above mountains and icing clouds in the Alps

Well, 8 years ago I was shopping for an Encore and eventually bought a Bravo, the Encore has supreme airframe engine balance, the Bravo has a tougher engine, oil cooled exhaust valve guides, sodium filled exhaust valve stems, Jimmy Garrison had a personal Bravo at the time...

Mooney is very comfortable on long flights due to legs stretched out almost flat, I roll both seats all the way back in cruise, max leg length I have done is 5h, normal is 4h, Fl210 going east, sweet spot for a turbo Mooney is somewhere between 16000 ft and 21000 ft, depending on your mission you might consider a TKS, however then the bird really becomes rare, probably less than 20 FIKI Encores on the planet

The Encore is a rare bird, think only 35 factory Encores built, a couple of conversions, this may take a while finding a suitable one, the guy that knows most about this stuff is Jimmy Garrison at Gmax American, he may be able to shake one loose off market, might be worthwhile to call him on Monday

6'3" really should not be a problem, I am 6'3" and can sit comfortably with the seat all the way down, my height is in my torso, if your height is in your legs there is no problem whatsoever since the legroom is unlimited, I have flown in B55s, the Mooney has more headroom, welcome aboard

Really impressive!

If not done so already have shop tighten clamps on oil return line hoses, wash engine down with mineral spirits and spray suspect area with dye penetrant developer, run engine and look for developing oil taces, may have to do this several times fixing one leak after the other, find out in which areas your case is prone to cracking, spray those areas with white dye penetrant developer, cracks will show up as dark lines in the developer, this is time consuming but beats tearing down a healthy engine

I have learnt to install the bottom cowl of the Bravo by myself, old rug on the hangar floor to drag cowl in front of airplane, balance the cowl on my knee sitting on a stool with rollers on right side of airplane, align the air scoop and intercooler scoop, tighten one camlock on the right side of fuselage, scoot over to the left side while supporting cowl with my left hand, tighten on camlock o the left side, use masking tape to protect fuselage paint

good article, think the basic misconception comes from carefree automotive engines these days, they loaf along at 5-15% of rated power pretty much all their useful life, whereas aircraft piston engines are driven to their thermal limits at every takeoff and run at 70-75% of rated power most of their useful life, borescoping the exhaust valves at every second spark plug cleaning is very helpful, excellent borescopes can be had for $150

yes to all, at $2.5k certainly worth disassembling trim switch, reinstalled best with pigtails that are spliced at the bottom of the yoke, anything in there is repairable or replaceable at little materials cost besides the toggle itself, I ended buying a new switch, there are two toggles, big one and small one, they hit the striker plates of the microswitches with a sharp point, once that point wears off friction increases and the spring cannot return the toggle which is sensed by the autopilot which then checks out, my smaller toggle was worn, if you have a used switch the larger toggle can be milled down to make the small one, same profile, I did not know all this when I started, took me about 20h to figure it out, find new switch and install, with hindsight I would have been better off having my favorite avionics shop do this, while I had the switch out I repaired the stripped threads in the plastic cap that carries the switch, glued in small nuts, think they were 2-56 thread, feels solid now and will probably last 2000h like the first switch