TCUDustoff

So perhaps I am an idiot, but is there anyway to get a G5 to give you vertical GPS guidance when using the Vertical Nav FPS setting on a 430W? I get the GPS message, but I was hoping for a vertical nav guidance indication like with a GPS approach. Is that possible? Images of what I have setup now in the Garmin. G5 is per the install manual ( we think!). Bottom line: I would like to follow the magenta needle down to my Vertical Nav point just like we could do in the ERJ-145 with the Honewell FMS.

Welp, my second largest fear has come true; what was a very slight weep only on really cold or really hot days and turned into something I can't ignore anymore. I came home from three weeks away for work and I found a wet puddle the size of a dinner plate under the right main and also under the lowest part of the belly where the fuel drained down the spar. I pulled the OAT cover and this is what I found. There are a few guys in the Houston area who will do the work, but it sounds like patching the leak can end up costing almost as much as a full strip and seal if your unlucky. While nothing is guaranteed in life, I was hoping I could get y'alls opinion on the chance of success with a patch based on what I found. Unfortunately, I am so busy with work that if I take it outside of the local area I won't be able to get it done till May or June at the earliest; my wife works 100 hours a week on-average and I can't be away from home for more than a day without huge prior planning. Like I mentioned earlier, I used to only get very small seeping out of the same two holes and only when there was a huge temperature swing. Its possible this too will stop as it warms up, but I think the dam is starting to break with the increase in amount leaking. Enough leaked out in the three weeks it stained the paint bad enough I can't get it off even with brake cleaner. I wiped down all of the fuel I could, but it was flowing all along the front edge of the gear well down to the belly and dripping there as well. Inside of the gear well is dry with no leaks. Trying out using an IMGUR Album...lets see how this works for photos. https://imgur.com/a/u0USbTH Edit: I should have mentioned -- photos are from the access panel just outboard of my hand (where the OAT is) in case its not obvious.

Got this from a local shop, but ended up installing a 430W instead when my existing COM#1 died. I did power it up when installing my G5s, but didn't get a photo -- can grab photos of the antenna, a GA35, and unit powered up upon request. Price is shipped to the lower 48. Willing to entertain reasonable offers.

Sorry for the thread bump, but wanted to share. I had the exact same question and decided to take mine apart today since it was leaking -- internals are 100% the same as a Scott 4500. Since the part number for my 68 says 4500A1, and looks like this and not the rectangular body posted earlier, I hypothesize that they were originally cast and switched to machined at some point after the early 68s (I am 68-0008). Used the o-ring specified in the manual screenshot posted on page one and so far, no leaks with a filled res on my workbench! I bought a brass dentist pick off amazon per previous poster and, while it took a while, I got the o-ring out and swapped in about 30 min. Also, for my knowledge, what do you guys and gals put on the AN fuel / hydraulic fittings when putting them back together? Some sort of anti-seize or sealant? I'm thinking of the white plumbers tape you use in your house, but know you wouldn't want to use that on an airplane in case it started to come apart and contaminate your system -- do you need anything since the fittings are tapered? I was going to ask my A&P tomorrow when he helps me put it all back together, but I'm curious what y'all use so I can learn me some

Howdy! Thanks to all the folks here who helped me get what I needed for upgrades. Wanted to list my working pull-outs in case it could help somebody here. Price OBO...make me an offer. SigmaTek Gyro 5000B-36 --- $125 Shipped or $200 Shipped if buying both Gyros. Both worked when pulled for G5s in February. Mooney DG by Edo-Aire 4000B-5 ---$125 Shipped or $200 Shipped if buying both Gyros. Both worked when pulled for G5s in February. Narco AT-150. Repaired via IRAN in July 2020 by Flight Control Cervices in Florida. $125 shipped. Can include tray if needed and can provide invoice for repair. Trimble TNL 2000T. Can include tray and antenna if needed. $50 shipped w/ GPS Card. Terra TMA 230D. $50 Shipped. If you want edge connected and pins, I do have some but they are extra.... was going to use them for an arcade project! Photos of all items at the following Google Photos Album Link. Note the Terra Radios are not for sale. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TkHe9tqjuAwQMq6o7

Can you elaborate? I don't see any HTWAS info on the Terrain page when in the config menu. Thanks!

Bump.... I did a real bad job of posting intermediate photos, but here is one before I got all the placards in. Worth the 5 month hassle!

I am going to fly to my parents in Dallas on Wednesday after work then leave crack of dawn Thursday. Hoping I can get in b/w airshow and arrival termination Thursday evening. Hope you are right! Else, I guess diversion is in my cards *cries*

So I got my G5s and 430W install complete. Schweet! While getting my pitot-static and transponder checks done today to finish things out, I asked the avionics shop a question they couldn't answer; how do I change the icon from helicopter to airplane since this 430W was a helicopter pullout? They were stumped and couldn't answer me. I've been though the install manual several times and can't seem to find an answer. It does not have HTWAS enabled, and nothing else seems to point to it being in any sort of "helicopter" mode other than the icon on the map display, so I am a bit perplexed. Not the end of the world, but would like to fix if able. Thanks in advance for the brainpower of Mooneyspace!!

I'm planning on heading up on Thursday. Do you think there will be some camping left? Also, does a 68C qualify for vintage aircraft parking? I can't seem to find the rules on the EAA website and not sure what camping area gives me the best chance of getting a spot

So I'm trying to go as well, but we can't leave Texas till Thursday morning. What happens if you get there and there is no camping left? I don't exactly want to turn around and head home.... Additionally, is there anything you need to do in advanced but be an EAA member (other than read all the arrival information)?

Concur! I didn't mean to open a can of worms, and it looks like I did Sometimes with these older airplanes, it's tough to find an answer; unlike a C-172, most mechanics aren't super comfortable or familiar with the peculiarities of our aircraft and I am glad we have this forum to help each other out! I haven't ordered anything yet and, just to clarify @GEE-BEE AEROPRODUCTS, you can provide both the front-most doghouse lip seal (#11 in the parts manual diagram posted by @cctsurf) as well as upgraded replacements for the felt that seals the starter/generator at the front? I knew you sold kits for the later, more traditional style baffling that seals to the top cowling but didn't realize you did something for our older aircraft. Thanks!

Thanks all. I think I am going to proceed with the thicker material and the pop rivets. And to clarify, yes, this is the material between the metal doghouse and the cowling "lip ring."

I'm trying to get this done in the next 10 days or so I can attempt to make it to Oshkosh...not sure their lead time...*eek*

Thread title says it all. My calipers indicate thicker material than Aircraft Spruce sells and am curious if anybody knows what its supposed to be (3/32 or 1/8). The Parts Manual I have just calls it a Baffle Seal without any additional details....so helpful! Also, out of curiosity, has anybody used screw in Baffle Fasteners instead of the battle seal pop rivets that they sell? Not sure if its worth the extra cost to make future repairs easier or not.... Thanks!

@PT20J I should have been a bit clearer; I tapped onto the load side of the Battery Master Solenoid. So, in short, my two position switch allows me to either run the entire avionics bus off the avionics relay or isolate the 430W and ATT G5 and run just them directly off the Battery Bus when the Master is ON. Initially I intended to only put the 430W on this side of the bus, allowing me to get weather and input my flight plan before starting the engine and without having all the avionics on draining the battery. Since I have a generator still, this helps keep me from running at 1300 rpm and allows my engine temps to stay manageable when its hotter than the sun in Texas. But to comply with the G5 requirement to have the ATT indicator on the Battery Bus, I figured this was essentially the same thing and would provide some redundancy to failures. Anyways, your research on how the G5 works is appreciated! I have an external antenna I use for my Straux build. I wonder how the feds would feel about having a pigtail w/ adapter coming off the internal GPS connector and stashed for emergency use in case of a GPS failure? Yes you would need to go into the G5 and enable the internal GPS in an emergency, but then again its an emergency?

@corvar01 I've been busy with work and should have followed up, but yeah we figured it out. Thanks for the confirmation, however!

Quick question for folks; what Amp Circuit Breaker are you using for your B-11 systems? Mine was hooked into an inline fuse holder and we can't make out what Amperage the fuse is; even under a magnifying glass, can't find any markings that reflect the max Amps. Wanting to replace this with a breaker while I am redoing the bus bar and the documentation from Brittain just shows a breaker without any specs. Thanks!

I'm getting close to wrapping up my dual G5 install with a 430W. Since the ADI is supposed to be on the "Battery Bus," what I did was split my Avionics Bus and put a diode in-between the two bars. This is controlled with a dual position Avionics Master switch: UP is ON through the Relay while DOWN is ON just for the three position bus bar directly through the Battery. My 430W GPS circuit breakers are on this bus as well as the G5 ATT. This accomplishes two things: On the ground, I can power up the GPS and enter my flight plan and get weather / clearance. In the air, if I have a generator failure or an avionics relay failure, I can quickly isolate and run the Attitude Indicator and 430W from the battery. Note that, without the GAD, you can't control an autopilot nor feed ARINC data to the G5. But, and I confirmed this with the local avionics shop, the GPS data is fed via RS-232 to the G5. So, long story short, this will keep the G5 in fully functioning attitude indicator mode and have GPS navigation, and a radio, in an emergency.

@1964-M20E Thanks for the confirmation. I am going to measure the OD of the stock wire and, as long as its similar, I will probably go with the #6. I still have a generator, and the breaker is 50A, but it doesn't hurt other than the pocketbook if it will fit in the existing adle clamps. Out of curiosity, the original wiring has an odd braiding on it and is not the typically, modern sheathing; is generic MIL-W-22759/16 from any of our friendly aircraft supply stores the modern day equivalent? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff. Sure the OP will be in the same boat if he still needs to replace.

@Ragsf15e Did you ever figure this out? I am going to have to probably replace my cable due to a stupid mistake yesterday. Looking at AC 41.13, I think an 8 AWG or 6AWG wire will work for 50A at an estimated 8 feet length (I need to replace -147 as well). I really wish we had some more detail in the older parts manuals!

I think I fixed the image. I just need to use imgur and stop trying to upload / attach directly.

I did something insanely stupid today. I was ALMOST done putting in my 430W and new audio panel....I was probably 45 min from firing it up to see if it all worked when I accidently hit the master switch. I had copied the previous installation, just upgraded the gauge of wire, and ran the new wire directly off the battery bus on the copilot side and up to the avionics solenoid without any circuit protection; all of the circuit breakers were downstream of the avionics solenoid. Unfortunately, the battery was connected because I was testing my fuel senders while installing them earlier in the week and forgot to unplug it. Also, the avionics master switch was on and I had left the battery tender plugged in....oh, and the avionics bus bar was not secured since I was still wiring stuff up and it was out touching the audio panel tray and, well, you can guess what happened. Smoke, melted insulation, and a fubared wiring harness I spent the last two months making. Like an idiot, I ran the avionics bus power wire directly though the adle clamps that I used to bundle my wiring harness and along the Aux Bus bar wiring. After ripping everything out that I spent the last two days installing, I found the following (pretty sure they are toast): Long story short, anybody know what gauge wires these are (-006 and -147)? The parts manual for the 68 and below don't list any specifics and, considering how expensive the larger wires are, I don't wanna have to buy these twice. Thankfully the only casualty in my wiring harness appears to be the encoder harness... *sigh* Also, while you should never be messing with the avionics bus bars while in flight, I am darn sure adding a breaker now for this just like the Aux Bus CB. Can you imagine if some FOD DID come loose and short out the bus bar while in flight? EEK! And to think the plane was flying around this way for 20 years... Is there anything else I should be inspecting since I basically just shorted the entire battery bus to ground (I'm lucky I didn't get shocked, now that I think about it...)? I inspected the battery cables and everything LOOKED okay, only the wires that were bundled with the avionics bus wire got visibly burned, but if im ripping all this stuff out might as well do it right.

@Aerodon My JPI 700 was repaired with a new screen WEEKS before I bought the plane; didn't really feel like sending it back to add the Fuel Flow to it for what they were going to charge. Additionally, I have some holes in the panel to fill now after removing all the INOP stuff + ADF so the FS-450 seemed like a good way to go. @Robert Hicks is hooking me up. Good call, however, on the Carb Temp Probe and the 700 - I thought you had to send it in as well for an upgrade to unlock that, but it appears that is not so. I'll probably grab a sensor next paycheck and throw that in the harness at Annual next month. Do you sell the probe? I'd rather send my money to a small business than the Spruce if possible.

In for a penny, in for a pound while doing my avionics upgrade; might as well fix all the squawks while the panel is gutted. Doubt I'll find a FS-450, but its worth asking before I shell out the full $500+ for a new one. On the Carb Temp front, I've got a Mid Continent MD11 in there now, but I think both the probe and the gauge are bad.