201wantabe

Depending on your process I prefer mold release wax number 8 with pva sprayed in to the mold. However, I am sure this is not their first rodeo.

It is funny how the OP posted this and their is currently 2 C models that reflect his question for sale right now.

My M20E was bought mid conversion using a top prop and factory M20J parts. The prop has been changed with the spinner that works with the M20J cowl and my cowl I have been fixing as it was part of a gear up. I met with the ATL FSDO and talked the plan over with them and they are fully onboard. Its a lot, if someone offered a kit that used the factory cowl duz holes rather then requiring them be replaced to mount to a J this would be much easier. The mooney parts manual does not provide a detailed drawing of the firewall and cowl supports on the firewall but the highlighted areas are what will need to be drilled out and split to replace the supports. That is why I claim if your going to go this far you should do the 201 windscreen as well.

In order to take a C to an E your going to need to do the following. Find a IO-360, preferably a IO-360A1B6 (or have your O rebuilt by penyan) and get the lasar 200 HP Conversion STC Find a M20J 201 top and bottom cowl, left and right cowl flaps, engine baffling and duz cowl firewall mount support. Locate a Hartzell Top Prop kit for a M20J or contact hartzell and explain your ordering for a M20C with a M20J firewall forward. This will require at least 1 STC and 2 337s, I think I have access to the data for the cowl and top prop for an E but only for a -A1A which means it has the "No cont. ops. above 24″ btwn. 2350 and 2550 rpm" limitation. This also will require completely splitting the skins from the firewall so that you can replace the cowl attach points, I recommend also doing a J sloped windscreen. It goes without saying unless you are of the type to get your hands dirty and can locate a friendly A&P this is not a project for the faint of heart. It is also worth keeping in mind, this will not increase the gross weight limit of your C.

For me, the whole PC system, turn coordinator (replaced with a non PC turn coordinator), full vacuum system and pump, AI and DG, as well as the vacuum gauge was a total of 52 pounds. However, your mileage may vary.

Riding myself of the vacuum system allows me to just barely have 1050 pounds useful load in an E model.

Well that was dumb of me but an easy to fix. That might have also been how my G5 harness as it spelled out what breakers to attach it too.

Actually the battery is the same size, the GI-275 is just far more power intensive. Keep in mind the G5 was originally intended to be a backup to a G3X Touch system with the original design goal to have 1 hour of battery life, it turned out they over-sized the battery and it did not make sense to move to a smaller battery. The GI-275 was designed from the ground up to be a primary instrument rather then be a standby so it has many more features thus it consumes the battery in a shorter period of time. As far as install goes, for the G5/GI-275 your required to have a breaker for each element in the system, so for example if you have my setup which is dual G5s, a GAD 29B, GAD 11 and GAD 13 I have the following breakers: AI HSI Mag GAD 29 GAD 13 Read the STC for more information, both the G5 and GI-275 have very well laid out documentation for install, almost any some what technically minded pilot has the ability to install a dual G5 system with the guidance of an A&P, I also highly recommend have spruce make the harness. The worst thing I had to do was add a few pins to the harness on my GNS 480.

I have been very dishearten by my search for hanger space, while I am up in Atlanta, the story is the same here. The closest airport to me told me the last time I hanger became available was 10 years ago. A quick ride around the airport reveals a large number of hangers are being used for non-aviation storage. The best I can recommend join a local EAA chapter or equivalent and make some friends. Then see if you can rent space from someone who has a larger hanger or find a group to go in on a larger hanger.

I have seen quotes for a GI-275 ADI installed for just at 5k. Something to keep in mind is that Garmin's website prices are MSRP. For example, the CDI/MFD GI-275 is on sale at a few dealers for about 500 dollars off what Garmin's prices with Sarasota Avionics running the best deal I have seen on one.

It will function in the same way as the G5 and the GFC-500, however, you will no longer be required to have a GAD-29 or GAD-13 interfaces like your required to have for the G5 for autopilot interfacing and Temperature.

I guess I am a rev or two behind, what I had read was that for a certified install you had the option of having the external antenna using internal GPS receiver OR use the GPS information from an IFR navigator with the later being the approved IFR install.

I am also surprised this conversation is still going but a few folks have brought up something that bugs me about the certified G5 install. While we should probably venture to a different thread to discuss it, the G5 STC does not allow for an IFR installation to have the internal antenna (which requires an additional external antenna) to be hooked up and installed. I have seen one person get a 337 for this but for whatever reason Garmin says this is a no go even though in the experimental guide they recommend giving the G5 a secondary GPS as "In the event of a power failure the G5 will still be able to retain a GPS/INS solution to display pitch, roll, yaw, slip and GPS track". I will add to this that if you loose your primary GPS the G5 AHRS only solution will start to degrade, while you have 4 hours of battery life, without GPS the AHRS solution will precess just like a DG depending on how your flying, the G5 will throw up a big red X in AHRS only mode in like 45 minutes to an hour.

Grip would not be the term I would use, in throttle quadrant airplanes I have always push the throttle/s forward and then place my hand flat on the underside of all levers in the quadrant and held them to the stop or desired position. Keeping a grip on them does exactly what you described, if your seats not clipped in all the way and you reduce the power, or worse mixture. Keeping your hand on the backside simply lets you fall away if your seat comes back.

If they would just make a G5 with SVT I would be extremely happy.