Nukemzzz

If you or a buddy has a J that wants to save some money on the GNC-500 install I have the install kit. My local avionics shop had a leftover full autopilot system for the J from a cancelled install (Gear up landing before the appointment). I purchased the full system (2 Axis + Trim) and I'm using the Servos, Head Unit, and Yoke Buttons in my new Cherokee 6. I'm looking to sell the J Model install kit that remains (Retails for $4195). See the attached kit install bill of materials. I have everything in the Base and Pitch Trim Columns except for the GA-28 servos which aren't part of a the install kits. According to my Garmin Avionics shop the Mooney M20J kits are priced at the following: The roll/pitch install kit (K11-00024-25) list price is $2935.00 The trim install kit (K11-00024-26) list price is $1260.00 Or $4195 combined I'll let them go for $1900 plus shipping for the both.

Yeah, this is the decision I'm faced with. But we are talking about adding what.... $5000 to the bill to go with two new radios? We all have too much disposable income if that doesn't cause some reflection. lol

I'm about to embark on a big big project. I'm about to inherit my father's Cherokee 6 and I plan on going big on refurb as I transition to it from my VFR only 1966 M20E (N3434X). I'm going to gut the panel and the interior. I'm going to try for a G3X system... buying all the stuff and harness from Approach Fast Stack and installing it together with my shop here. But I'm still choking on the price of this upgrade. I'm looking at 55K just for the parts. Avionics shops are quoting 120-140 installed. Anyway... I'm looking to save a little money on Radios. I plan on one Nav/Com and one Com. My question is if the SL 30 Nav/Com and SL 40 are good used radios? They are pretty cheap on Ebay used....vs brand new 215 and 205 models. 34X has only ever had radio troubles (KX155 is a terrible radio in my experience)...so I know radios can be a PIA.

If I had the dimensions I could 3D print a custom holder for it.

This is almost exactly what I want to get done to my father's Cherokee 6 in Bonifay Florida just east of there. I wasn't aware that there was a good avionics shop in DS. I just plan on a GNS 375 for GPS instead of that 650i. Seems to be cheaper that way and then we get two radios with physical knobbys.

Update: snugging the set screw up by around a quarter turn…and just baicially finger tight again fixed it for now. I don’t know if the screw came loose or the shaft deformed. Will monitor for now.

Ok, I’ve spent an hour looking and I’m turning up nothing. Time to ask for help… I suspect I’m about to fail the 500 yoke shaft AD and I’m apparently the only weirdo that doesn’t want to upgrade to the new yokes. I like the stock yokes..they are small, my iPad mounts to the pilot side using the old clock hole mount, my PC wing leveler works so I need the button, and I read that the new yokes with shafts are a bit longer which might be a problem with my short legs and growing belly…lol Is there no way to just repair the end? I can’t find anyone talking about this.

I’m wondering the same. It’s time for this kit on my bird I think.

Yeah. Pretty sure this is what’s happened. That makes this a pretty embarrassing post. Now the question is if I should leave it as a warning to others. Lol The good news is I’ve always got my eyes peeled from something out of the ordinary, and Mooneyspace discussion maybe saved me $1500! The bad news is when I shut down I forgot I wasn’t driving my old car! (my current cars don’t even have a key)

Well crap. You might be on to something. I just remembered something else. I forgot and shut the plane off with the key instead of the mixture yesterday. I saw it when I went to start later and the mixture was in. And the boost pump would have still been running for a few seconds while I shut things down. I bet that’s all this is.

Ohh. Interesting thought that. So my bird is missing the sniffle valve, however, the airbox vent does connect to the same place as the fuel pump weep. They come out the same pipe. It’s fuel for sure. About a tablespoon maybe. Now that I think about it…it didn’t start coming out until I pushed it back last night and then it was say…spitting…not drip drip drip. But why would I have so much fuel in the intake?

I just went through all the paperwork. The receipts etc. Can’t find that one receipt. It just said mechanical fuel pump replaced in the entry. Grrr

Yeah, but I’m trying to order overnight shipping from spruce today so I have a chance of flying to Florida yet next weekend.

Note: I thought I had a fuel pump failing causing a leak out of the weep hole. Turns out I just forgot to use the mixture to shut down and the boost pump was still on a few seconds as I powered down. This put fuel in intake that then came out the bottom of the intake drain tube...shared with fuel pump weep tube. --------------------- Started leaking a little from the weep hole hose this weekend. Saw it on shutdown while putting down the nose chocks. I have a 8hr round trip to Florida coming next weekend and I'm hoping to rush order a replacement and get it in this weekend. M20E SN 1126. IO-360-A1A According to the Tempest overhauled FP guide on Aircraft Spruce I probably have the vintage "laminated" arm style... but it was maybe upgraded to a modern pump (It was installed 460hrs ago in 2005 during an overhaul). It's clear that I need the 25-30psi version....that much i'm sure of. lol Spruce claims I can get the vintage overhauled pump here by Wed... if I can't tell for sure I suppose I should order it. The vintage one: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/05-02531.php The Mooney Parts manual claims I need: 6640296. A web search for this number turns up nothing relevant other than the Spruce listing for the modern pump with the notes on it to use the vintage pump if the engine hasn't been converted to the modern: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/05-19010.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjvaYBhDlARIsAO8PkE1Kzu44-sWgDgclIeQkwfw-cad4bs4K7hrakTLDvjXXWjj72pX-WNEaArjTEALw_wcB I'm pretty certain I can't check this part number without pulling the pump because it has the cooler over it making it impossible to see. Is there an easy way to tell visually without removing the pump? If I understand correctly the modern pump is is a little larger than the vintage style?

Can you please re upload this audio file. It’s coming in as zero bytes on download and I suspect ai’m having a similar issue on my plane.

Quick follow up: I had an unused breaker switch adjacent to this one that was popping and these two breaker switches have changed places…So far so good. This was the cheapest and quickest way.

So I may have another solution: ditch the belly strobe (patch the hole) and install wingtip led nav/strobes. Reduces drag and I don’t even need this breaker any longer. Hmmm. Apparently since I have open wingtips it meets anti collision light requirements.

I’m considering the same. Tomorrow I’m going to see but 2 of the adjacent switches switches aren’t in use. If they are the same amperage I may move the strobe wire over to it and see. If not, then my next move is likely an LED strobe. These switches are $300+after tax and shipping. Can get a strobe for that. Lol

I'm fairly sure that my plane uses D7270-5-xx model toggle switch breakers. I suspect also that the 7270-5-xx is the same switch. I don't know what that 5 means. I see 1's and 7's as well. The xx on this switch that is kicking is a D7270-5-5 ... so I think it is a 5amp. I'll check the strobe docs tomorrow to see if 5amp is supposed to be enough. @M20F-1968 do you have this model? I'll probably call you tomorrow. Thanks guys

Does anyone know what switch part numbers are direct replacements so it fits in the same place and the bus bar doesn’t have to be modified? I see tyco…but is it the same fittment? I suspect it’s cheaper but you pay the difference in labor/time for tweaking things to make it fit. I willing to pay for the more expensive switch if it is drop in. Just don’t what switch that would be.

Hey guys, update… We tried and tried and couldn’t get the issue to repeat during annual to troubleshoot if it was the switch or the strobe. It has been fine since and I reasoned it just needed to be exercised. Until today! Today it popped and I noted the back of the switch box itself was very hot. It was able to burn my finger if I held it there too long. The wires weren’t hot, just the body of the switch. I let it cool and flipped it back on and it slowly heated back up. The strobe kept flashing as it heated up so it wasn’t a short in the strobe circuit. Also, It seemed like when I increased engine RPM and the voltage increased it heated up really hot then until it popped again. My guess is the switch itself is failing in such away that it is generating internal heat which causes it to pop. I’m not an electrical engineer…is this likely? If so, I think my next step is a switch. I just need to figure out what amperage is needed. I’m going to get the strobe manual from my things tomorrow and see what the book says is required it might just be that the worn out switch amperage capability is just too close to the strobe requirement. thoughts? Sucks because I’m literal a couple of weeks away from my PPL checkride. I’m that close! I appreciate the offers to test things but I’m more likely to just pick the strobe or switch and just put in a new one for sake of time.

So mine is doing this as of yesterday. What did you find out on yours?

After 2years of work fixing the plane and trying to get my medical…like a month ago I got my medical and two weeks ago the plane came out of annual. And I’ve now finally soloed. It can be done in your own Mooney. Is it harder? A little. I flew a 172 a few hours as well and it was a bit more rugged and easier to fly. But it can be done in a Mooney. The hardest part for me is getting it slowed down and keeping it slowed down on final, and keeping it stable on the ground roll. Also, the brakes are terrible. Not sure if that’s just mine or not lol I really couldn’t have done it without some of you on this forum. Thank you so much for your help these last two years. Now I just need to put a bow on this and finish the PPL. Is almost spring! The video below documents my solo and my strangely problematic afternoon solo joy ride.

I think you've hit on it. I think the 80mph (old number) was gear down and flaps at the takeoff setting, and in that config the best angle of climb is a stunt pilot attitude to the moon. Maybe... 80mph is as high as you should go without being considered "aerobatic" (What is it? 20 degrees and you need a parachute?)? Wouldn't a very steep attitude also put you at higher risk of a wind sheer related stall? Lots of good reasons to not climb that aggressively...not the least of which is I have to lean way down and jerk quite a bit to get the J-Bar down. Also, my arm isn't the longest so I can barely see outside for those few seconds. In 67 maybe the FAA said that's too steep of a climb... but they didn't want the takeoff distance to suffer too much so they changed to an imaginary scenario of gear and flaps up before your passengers even notice you are off the ground because the numbers look better? Could it be a marketing reason? So now I'm wondering if the takeoff distance numbers changed from the 66 to the 67 manuals? @takair what does your 65 manual have for takeoff distances? I'll post the March 67 below for the same.

My copy of that exact same manual calls out "speed for maximum angle of climb" at the top of page 25. Does yours not say that? See my post above for the screenshot.