willerjim273

OK, Thanks. I suppose I will drop her down and hook up the tow. Not sure I can picture the chaffing. Works fine on the jacks. Will find out. Thanks again. I'll have to look up what you guys are using on Go Pro. Never had one.

I noticed the port (pilot) gear door closes and leaves about a thumb of gap. All is well on jacks. Work great. Anyone have any ideas on why the might have been rigged with that gap? Do conditions change under actual flight conditions? It has always worked just peachy. Do not want to tighten them up and learn something you all may know. Valid assumptions to say that if anything, the low pressure should pull them apart? Muchas

Yes this topic has been all over the place. I have the 3 in rudder extensions. they seem to be adjusted right on the verge of actuating the brakes. I don't think there is any way to adjust in the extension itself. To order to adjust the brake rod, can someone please tell me if that is accessible from the cockpit or pull a panel from below? I would imagine there is a threaded shaft with a jam nut on it somewhere. Kind of a tight space so if I simply push the fabric boot way down is it there?. Thanks very much Recovering from surgery is my excuse.. Tks

This one has been all over the place! I figure we need get to a real question of "what is trying to be accomplished?" With that, how many of us are expecting to have full control - without getting brakes involved - to do both without taking feet of the pedals? It seems as though you have to decide if you want to control both at same time or "stab" at the bottom "rudder" then move up to the brakes as needed. on landing. I have to admit it would be nice to have both. How many of us are "riding" the rudder without moving feet on landings? I have an 80' K with the rudder pedal extensions - I cannot figure it out. Part # is T 20 115 -003 REV B, 24043887 03 /07/201J M43. Also, can someone please send me info on adjusting the length of the brake actuation rod? Do I have to pull a panel below or push the boot down? Thanks!!

All Mooneys I have flown have a gear indicator on the floor between the seats. It should have a light that shows the gear is down.

OK, I think Turbo hit it pretty well. Just keep it to the gear fly-by. As I was taxing to the FBO, the CRASH crew and ground were talking. I am guessing they need certain answers once CRASH is alerted. They were on the ramp ready to go rescue me. So tower told them the gear looked good, but get ready just in case-basically. There has been no mention of the flight home yet. I am waiting for a call from AOPA lawyer. IF they make a deal out of the flight home, the K model I have has the annunciator gear down light as well. So - 2 lights. All I told him on the phone was that 1- I put in a new bulb, 2- that moving wires going to the bulb assembly DID cause intermitency, 3- and it works fine now. Nothing else discussed. Tks, Best Regards, paranoid

Thanks everyone, He is asking for copies of certificate, medical, and logbook entry for the light bulb replacement. I have read part 14 CFR Part 43, Maintenance, Preventive Maintenance, Rebuilding, and Alteration enought, I think, to know that I can make log entry and sign off. Any suggested language? I just renewed my AOPA, will call them as well. Thanks

Hola, 1980 M20K I have a letter from the FAA re: an "occurance" recently at KBJC. I had no floor light, so I had the tower confirm the gear was down. I landed and left the plane tied down for about a week due to absurd winds we had. Once back at home base, panel removed to replace the bulb. Noticed that the bulb was intermitent when wiring moved. Replaced the bulb, reconnected. Should be good to go. I figured it was a pretty standard "occurance" (word used in FAA letter). The letter asked me to call FSDO. I did. He asked a lot of questions. Now he wants copies of liscense, medical and log entry. No problem. Like to get opinions on whether he may be setting me up some how. I understand bulbs are an owner item. What say this group? Thanks Paranoid Jim

My K model has hardly used any oil at all SMOH 3 years ago. But she has always peed a squirt on the nose tire. I changed that oil and found the Saf-Air spring loaded Red quick drain oil plug leaking slightly. So I ordered a Saf-Air S-6250K rebuild kit form Spruce. Figuring it would take them a while to dig one up, we recowled for a trip upcoming. I do not have the exact model, but they appear to all be the same desigh. The kit arrived today and it looks like it was packaged around the time I gratuated high school. When I did have the "plug" in my hand, I was having trouble figuring out how we would get it apart even if we did have a kit at that time. Now it is back in the plane. 2 questions: Would it be your opinion to pitch the kit due to age? I understanding that the ""red" ones like mine only have one o-ring" (Santos a few years ago as I recal). That would mean that the bottom-easy to replace- o-ring is the only one to replace. I have a hard time believeing that there is not another one, or top one. he package I have has a spring, 3 o-rings, a new drain gasket, as shown below. Last is best question: We have searched all over the net and can NOT find any .pdf or instructions for that quick drain. Anybody help on that? Thanks img20220309_10524568.pdf

All is working great. No tail strobe on that year. Sure did not take an "hour", more like 6 if is you first time. Biggest work around for me was getting something for the strobe housing to screw into. I will put some pics down below. Question I have is right now the yellow wire is not attached. Given just wing strobes, If I attach both yellow wires- the sync wires, how does the "brain" know how to sync them? Just curious, I am guessing the old power packs took care of that job. Is the circuitry built into the strobes? Does the yellow wire just interrupt the ground for a split second? ll went fine

Install went fine. All is working great. No tail strobe on that year. Sure did not take an "hour", more like 6 if is you first time. Biggest work around for me was getting something for the strobe housing to screw into. I will put some pics down below. Question I have is right now the yellow wire is not attached. Given just wing strobes, If I attach both yellow wires- the sync wires, how does the "brain" know how to sync them? Just curious, I am guessing the old power packs took care of that job. Is the circuitry built into the strobes? Does the yellow wire just interrupt the ground for a split second?

Thanks for the resposes and the cautions. We are ready to put it all back together. Just running power to each side, with a new stobe, we are getting one flash, then nothing. That goes for both sides. Anyone know anything about that problem? Thanks

Can anyone help explain how to do a quick Hello, 1. My strobes have been working fine for years. Then I noticed one side not working. The bulb is shot. Black and ugly looking. So naturally, I switched them out and still not joy. So I moved the good strobe to the non working side. I found the power pack (pp) in the port wing. It has 3 wires. A red- hot which is hot. The black is ground, I presume. Not sure about the white. My plan would be to unplug the power pp connector, fire up the strobes and see if I am getting voltage to the pack. Anybody have a better way? I dare not mess inside the pp. I figure it is time to get one ordered. 2. Also, the grounds to the pack: When the pack was unscrewed from the cover plate, one ground (braided ring) was obvious. It was right in front of my face. When I removed the pack, I noticed another black wire hanging there. It goes back to the pp and is a ring terminal. I have checked continuity from that 2nd black ring to the body of the pack and it is affirmative. There is continuity. So I assume that it goes to a mounting mounting screw just like the braided ring. It looks like Spruce does not have one. I have not done a ton of sourcing, but it looks like they range from $380 to over $800. What is the best move if she tests bad? Thanks

Looking for one of theses: pics below. Do these come apart? Looks like the strobe part is held in to the 7953 base by white silicone. Thre is a cover on the front. I see one here: https://www.interlightus.com/light-bulb/WW-63XK-6?gclid=CjwKCAjwqeWKBhBFEiwABo_XBudUEtZZUmzVM048H1rOJbwFLuH9avvRIbd1--XQC257CicmboORzhoC0w4QAvD_BwE But how to match ? Anybody been down this road? Muchas Gracias

I have never bench tested one. What are you looking for in coil and condensor? Continuity plus?

Not sure. She died at public airport BJC. So I am at a mechanic's work/mercy. I believe he did. Last we talked, was suspecting the metallurgy. Something is messed up. Either the mag or the man

bench spinning, no spark. New points, condenser checks good. No spark. On runup seems like I am turning to "off"

Anyone have one or where I can get one? Thought I would check here first. Contact me direct if affirmative, Thanks

Hello all. I have a 1980K. Yesterday the right mag gave out. Completely. On runup it acts like a total shutdown. Mechanics are looking at mag as cause. I am thinking switch as just had avionics work done. But they told me that unless grounded, the mag will produce spark....period as a rule cannot stop it. You are saying that something has to go back to the switch first? I also noticed that my headset connector plate down near left knee was a little bent after work. Seems like any time a mechanic gets near that plane, suddenly something goes wronger-er. 2 months ago after a different shop installed an Aerospace Logic MP/FF gauge- (absolutely awesome), my intercom switches ended up reversed ( Isolate/all and mono/stereo) AND I looked down as egressing and there is a part of a wiring harness clam laying on the carpet. Also the bottom cam locks disappeared- gone. What? Not going back there. Never had any problems like these at Arapahoe Aero with Scott. But then again, I did experience less money there.........get what you........ Anyhow, IF WIRES NEED TO GO TO SHITCH THEN BACK TO MAG, anyone give me a clue on what to look for? Try new /diff switch. ?? thanks Much btw, spent most of yesterday BJC-FNL-KXY. Ipad traffic looked like a beehive. BJC tower finally said- No new calls extend dwind". Super busy. I do not get it how busy it was. You think it is pent up covid? Every retailer Depot, Wally, etc says they are getting slammed, ?? Thanks

One difference I see is the mounting screws.

I just spent a fortune on one. But for you out there who may be looking: Does anyone know the specs on the Lasar "ETA", OR what that means? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nkk-switches/SW3823-U/2106547 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nkk-switches/SW3821-UC/1047680 https://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/SW-1.pdf https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nkk-switches/SW3821/1027479?utm_adgroup=Switches&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Supplier_NKK Switches_0360_Co-op&utm_term=&utm_content=Switches&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQitlJWkJ-Epi https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nkk-switches/SW3821/1027479?utm_adgroup=Switches&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Supplier_NKK Switches_0360_Co-op&utm_term=&utm_content=Switches&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQitlJWkJ-Epi https://lasar.com/switches/rocker-switch-high-boost-circuit-breaker-930023-219 = $314.00

Thanks Caru. Yes, according to my son, graphic cards have doubled, even used ones.

Anybody know if carenado works on X? Can I get Mooney Ovation in MSFS X ?

Are your referring to MSFS 2010 OR 202O in reference to the Carenado. Can I drop it into either folder?