willerjim273

Opps. Sorry guys. She is a 1980 M20k, TSIO 360 GB-LB C.

I am back to the experts here about my last post re: low and higher oil temps.(as a note here: according to forum etiquette Is it proper to just add on to the previous post? Or start a new one?) Going over the timeline here's what I have: I picked up the plane 3.6 hours ago after an annual. Good shop nice guy all that. Anybody who knows Greg at BJC knows what I'm talking about. I have a JPI. It’s an older one, 700 series, that does not monitor oil pressure. I have oil temp alarm set for 197 degrees oil temperature. First thing I noticed on the flight home was the oil alarm went off on the JPI. I've been flying this plane for 3 years and very, very seldom does the oil temperature alarm sound. I realize that 200 to 210 it's not anything to worry about but I rather just sideline that discussion for later. At the same time I looked down and the oil pressure was right on the line of yellow and green, 30 lbs. . Again my JPI does not monitor oil pressure. I was at 8000 ft. I have taken her no higher than 8000 ft on several flights since then. Same results. Prior To the annual at 16500 ft my oil temperature was just above minimum and oil pressure was about 46.-50. Now it is 30lbs at 8,000 ft. with higher than normal oil temps. Taking her up to 17k to get over the rocks out of Denver does not seem like a great idea. First thing that came up as the cause was the oil pressure relief valve system. I called Continental and they ran my engine serial number telling me that I do not have an adjustable system. I can see where it is coming off the block, but I'm not sure I'm comfortable being able to get it back in if I take it apart and clean it..The mechanic says if I bring it into the shop that's what he'll do, unless he see something else that's “obvious”. Of course he'll “T” in and check the gauge first. In the last week, I have: 1) changed the oil not knowing what he used. No difference. 2) Drained the oil again and, pulled the filter and took it to the mechanic. No metal. I have a father-in-law that just went into hospice and a wife in Reno. I'd rather not drive. Research- hours of it: Possible culprits seem to be that there is a speck of dirt or something blocking the seat on my fixed pressure relief valve. Again I have the non adjustable pressure relief valve set up. The cap-plug comes out of the block at an angle if anyone has that setup. So I am fixated on that oil pressure relief valve. I am set now to take it back to the mechanic on Monday. Right now I don't think he fully realizes that this occurred right after the annual (I went on a 3 week out of town trip in the meantime). Status right now is she has a new filter and 7 qts of oil and I am ready to take her back to the shop. Looking forward, if it is not the pressure relief system, what then? Any thoughts?

So I called Continental Aero. They looked up engine from data plate. There is no adjustment. So looking at the parts page, they are saying that there is nothing inside of the the cap. That means getting parts inside of # 16. I have not cracked it yet. I will let shop do that and test the gauge. Thanks

Exactly. But not that simple. He is stumped as well. Just talked to Continental Aero. My engine had no pressure adjustment. Yes, no adjustment. What I need is called an EQ6516, which is going to be a bear to find. the parts in that kit are listed below. It is a long story, but with that kit, I can have adjustable oil pressure. Tks For perspective in case anyone has or will come up in the future, we are talking the accessory case here. My engine is TSI0360GB1B - Accessory Case Part Listing GO HERE: http://continental.aero/support/illustrated-parts-catalog.aspx, AND SELECT ABOVE ENGINE #. Thanks if anyone has any experience on this.

I have read all that I can on this subject. 1980 M20K, She is a GB/LB meaning it was converted. I have read about "lapping" and also about a jamb nut with a screw adjustment. There is nothing wrong with engine. I am figuring that the 2 above procedures are one or the other, not both. Before annual, she has always run right on the line of yellow/green. Thanks

OK, So the chaffing is from overlap, not really interference. Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for.

OK, Thanks. I suppose I will drop her down and hook up the tow. Not sure I can picture the chaffing. Works fine on the jacks. Will find out. Thanks again. I'll have to look up what you guys are using on Go Pro. Never had one.

I noticed the port (pilot) gear door closes and leaves about a thumb of gap. All is well on jacks. Work great. Anyone have any ideas on why the might have been rigged with that gap? Do conditions change under actual flight conditions? It has always worked just peachy. Do not want to tighten them up and learn something you all may know. Valid assumptions to say that if anything, the low pressure should pull them apart? Muchas

Yes this topic has been all over the place. I have the 3 in rudder extensions. they seem to be adjusted right on the verge of actuating the brakes. I don't think there is any way to adjust in the extension itself. To order to adjust the brake rod, can someone please tell me if that is accessible from the cockpit or pull a panel from below? I would imagine there is a threaded shaft with a jam nut on it somewhere. Kind of a tight space so if I simply push the fabric boot way down is it there?. Thanks very much Recovering from surgery is my excuse.. Tks

This one has been all over the place! I figure we need get to a real question of "what is trying to be accomplished?" With that, how many of us are expecting to have full control - without getting brakes involved - to do both without taking feet of the pedals? It seems as though you have to decide if you want to control both at same time or "stab" at the bottom "rudder" then move up to the brakes as needed. on landing. I have to admit it would be nice to have both. How many of us are "riding" the rudder without moving feet on landings? I have an 80' K with the rudder pedal extensions - I cannot figure it out. Part # is T 20 115 -003 REV B, 24043887 03 /07/201J M43. Also, can someone please send me info on adjusting the length of the brake actuation rod? Do I have to pull a panel below or push the boot down? Thanks!!

All Mooneys I have flown have a gear indicator on the floor between the seats. It should have a light that shows the gear is down.

OK, I think Turbo hit it pretty well. Just keep it to the gear fly-by. As I was taxing to the FBO, the CRASH crew and ground were talking. I am guessing they need certain answers once CRASH is alerted. They were on the ramp ready to go rescue me. So tower told them the gear looked good, but get ready just in case-basically. There has been no mention of the flight home yet. I am waiting for a call from AOPA lawyer. IF they make a deal out of the flight home, the K model I have has the annunciator gear down light as well. So - 2 lights. All I told him on the phone was that 1- I put in a new bulb, 2- that moving wires going to the bulb assembly DID cause intermitency, 3- and it works fine now. Nothing else discussed. Tks, Best Regards, paranoid

Thanks everyone, He is asking for copies of certificate, medical, and logbook entry for the light bulb replacement. I have read part 14 CFR Part 43, Maintenance, Preventive Maintenance, Rebuilding, and Alteration enought, I think, to know that I can make log entry and sign off. Any suggested language? I just renewed my AOPA, will call them as well. Thanks

Hola, 1980 M20K I have a letter from the FAA re: an "occurance" recently at KBJC. I had no floor light, so I had the tower confirm the gear was down. I landed and left the plane tied down for about a week due to absurd winds we had. Once back at home base, panel removed to replace the bulb. Noticed that the bulb was intermitent when wiring moved. Replaced the bulb, reconnected. Should be good to go. I figured it was a pretty standard "occurance" (word used in FAA letter). The letter asked me to call FSDO. I did. He asked a lot of questions. Now he wants copies of liscense, medical and log entry. No problem. Like to get opinions on whether he may be setting me up some how. I understand bulbs are an owner item. What say this group? Thanks Paranoid Jim

My K model has hardly used any oil at all SMOH 3 years ago. But she has always peed a squirt on the nose tire. I changed that oil and found the Saf-Air spring loaded Red quick drain oil plug leaking slightly. So I ordered a Saf-Air S-6250K rebuild kit form Spruce. Figuring it would take them a while to dig one up, we recowled for a trip upcoming. I do not have the exact model, but they appear to all be the same desigh. The kit arrived today and it looks like it was packaged around the time I gratuated high school. When I did have the "plug" in my hand, I was having trouble figuring out how we would get it apart even if we did have a kit at that time. Now it is back in the plane. 2 questions: Would it be your opinion to pitch the kit due to age? I understanding that the ""red" ones like mine only have one o-ring" (Santos a few years ago as I recal). That would mean that the bottom-easy to replace- o-ring is the only one to replace. I have a hard time believeing that there is not another one, or top one. he package I have has a spring, 3 o-rings, a new drain gasket, as shown below. Last is best question: We have searched all over the net and can NOT find any .pdf or instructions for that quick drain. Anybody help on that? Thanks img20220309_10524568.pdf

All is working great. No tail strobe on that year. Sure did not take an "hour", more like 6 if is you first time. Biggest work around for me was getting something for the strobe housing to screw into. I will put some pics down below. Question I have is right now the yellow wire is not attached. Given just wing strobes, If I attach both yellow wires- the sync wires, how does the "brain" know how to sync them? Just curious, I am guessing the old power packs took care of that job. Is the circuitry built into the strobes? Does the yellow wire just interrupt the ground for a split second? ll went fine

Install went fine. All is working great. No tail strobe on that year. Sure did not take an "hour", more like 6 if is you first time. Biggest work around for me was getting something for the strobe housing to screw into. I will put some pics down below. Question I have is right now the yellow wire is not attached. Given just wing strobes, If I attach both yellow wires- the sync wires, how does the "brain" know how to sync them? Just curious, I am guessing the old power packs took care of that job. Is the circuitry built into the strobes? Does the yellow wire just interrupt the ground for a split second?

Thanks for the resposes and the cautions. We are ready to put it all back together. Just running power to each side, with a new stobe, we are getting one flash, then nothing. That goes for both sides. Anyone know anything about that problem? Thanks

Can anyone help explain how to do a quick Hello, 1. My strobes have been working fine for years. Then I noticed one side not working. The bulb is shot. Black and ugly looking. So naturally, I switched them out and still not joy. So I moved the good strobe to the non working side. I found the power pack (pp) in the port wing. It has 3 wires. A red- hot which is hot. The black is ground, I presume. Not sure about the white. My plan would be to unplug the power pp connector, fire up the strobes and see if I am getting voltage to the pack. Anybody have a better way? I dare not mess inside the pp. I figure it is time to get one ordered. 2. Also, the grounds to the pack: When the pack was unscrewed from the cover plate, one ground (braided ring) was obvious. It was right in front of my face. When I removed the pack, I noticed another black wire hanging there. It goes back to the pp and is a ring terminal. I have checked continuity from that 2nd black ring to the body of the pack and it is affirmative. There is continuity. So I assume that it goes to a mounting mounting screw just like the braided ring. It looks like Spruce does not have one. I have not done a ton of sourcing, but it looks like they range from $380 to over $800. What is the best move if she tests bad? Thanks

Looking for one of theses: pics below. Do these come apart? Looks like the strobe part is held in to the 7953 base by white silicone. Thre is a cover on the front. I see one here: https://www.interlightus.com/light-bulb/WW-63XK-6?gclid=CjwKCAjwqeWKBhBFEiwABo_XBudUEtZZUmzVM048H1rOJbwFLuH9avvRIbd1--XQC257CicmboORzhoC0w4QAvD_BwE But how to match ? Anybody been down this road? Muchas Gracias

I have never bench tested one. What are you looking for in coil and condensor? Continuity plus?

Not sure. She died at public airport BJC. So I am at a mechanic's work/mercy. I believe he did. Last we talked, was suspecting the metallurgy. Something is messed up. Either the mag or the man

bench spinning, no spark. New points, condenser checks good. No spark. On runup seems like I am turning to "off"

Anyone have one or where I can get one? Thought I would check here first. Contact me direct if affirmative, Thanks