willerjim273

OK, I'll call them Monday. I just do not want to spend time chasing up the wrong tree. Thanks

Thanks, So true. The latest 2020 MSFS, as far as I can see is all Garmin 1000. A search for "Mooney" brings up nothing. There a zillion youtube tutorials but none I have found that actually show you have to load the Mooney. I also have MSFS 2002, but it will not load on newer machines. I do not need to go with bill gates, just wondering if anyone has a sim up and running with 400/500 that works. Tks

Hello all, I am new to simulator world. I have spent a few hours with MSFS 2020 searching for a way to change the display. I do not have a Garmin 1000. It looks as thought there are ways to purchase "mods" or whatever and install them in your "community" file, which I have failed to do thus far. Then I see that some oar of the opinion to scrap MS and go with other vendors. 1980 K model Garmin 480 with MX 20, FD, pretty standard for the 1980's. So a 430 or 530 works fine, I it snowing in Denver for next couple of days. Thought I would at least fly a few approaches, Not going to happen at this rate. My son has an up to date gaming computer he is reluctantly allowing me to use until he HAS to have it back. I could care less about the bells and whistles. Just pick departure, dest, approaches and go. Thanks

Update on unsafe gear warning horn. Success, I think. Thanks to this platform and after reading all I could, it may be solved. We replaced the throttle micro switch (which tested OK) and the piezo. We also set and rest the breakers. Took her for a 30 min flight and no problem. HOPEFULLY that will do it. I am set to fly to El Paso this week so I will let everyone know if it is solved long term. Which of the 3 it could be, I have no idea. Again, hats off to this resource.

Posted 11 minutes ago Sorry if I double quote. We replaced the throttle switch and gear piezo. Ready to test fly today or t'morrow. The gear alarm goes off when the throttle is retarded past the throttle switch (usually set about 16-17" MP) and the gear is in motion (Gear Unsafe indicator is lighted). When you say that the alarm goes off in flight. Is this normal flight or when the gear is extended in the landing pattern? No, alarm sounds regardless of throttle position 1. Check that when the gear is down it is fully down. Check the over center torque on the main gear and the spring pressure on the front gear. At least this will ensure that mechanically the gear is down and locked appropriately so that it is safe to fly and not risk a gear collapse. Sounds good. I get a gear down light just fine. 2. Check that the gear down sensor is adjusted correctly so that when fully down it turns off the light. When flying, does the Gear Safe light flicker on and off when the gear is extended? No I would guess that this sensor is triggering the alarm and should be on when the alarm sounds. You should be able to verify that this is functioning correctly as the Gear Unsafe light will be on when the alarm sounds. You can also test by increasing throttle past the throttle switch temporarily to see if the alarm goes off when the Gear Unsafe is still lighted - this will confirm that the throttle switch is working correctly and you can note the MP that triggers the alarm. I tried increasing throttle. No joy This is a 231. No squat switch, as far as I know. It has the airspeed switch and throttle switch. I have done that, no joy. The airspeed switch is only used as a safety to prevent gear going up on the ground - it is set to sense a minimum airspeed that enables the gear up process. If the gear will not go up on jacks without the gear override button and the gear goes up in flight this switch is working. You may want to check this eventually to confirm the airspeed that triggers the switch is correct but it is not causing the gear alarm. Yes on all that. So I am very happy to know it is not the switch. thanks for the reply!

I am getting an "unsafe landing gear" warning in flight. A little obnoxious when you key the mic and have that squealing. Gear on jacks goes up and down just fine. And occasionally it does not squeal in flight. I have read as many posts as possible. I am in the process of replacing the throttle micro switch and the 628PR even though they seem to be fine. Next will be all grounds and the AS switch. After that, from what I have read here, we are looking at the underbelly switches. Up for annual this month, so I will wait on that. I read on this blog that surgical tubing was "rolled up" to create airspeed with plane on jacks. I would like to see if it will hold air. Can someone tell me where, on a 1980 231, that switch is located? The problem is I am getting a fault in the throttle switch , airspeed switch, piezo circuits. I have read everything from resistors to snapping the breakers. BTW, if it is a dirty breaker, what is a good cleaner. ? Cheers! .

"if it doesn’t clean up, it is pretty sorta easy to replace..." Can someone explain- roughly the process?. We have had the adjoining instruments out of the way. Then all the screws that hold in the sub panel. Pulled it out a few inches. I could be wrong- but for some reason, we could still not get good access. Closed it back up. ANY VIDEOS ON THIS? or Step by step- or the best way to search for that data within this resource? So while we are here, are there any https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/verticalpowerx.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyJn5BRDrARIsADZ9ykE_70JnTtyWVq3cgb9IMe5Eb2dI7ZCWj1Q69dr5xxsjmPxrEY-ictoaAjobEALw_wcB ? I think I know that answer. Thanks

I just fixed it!!! A Covid related incident? Below are problems I had this morning, about 8 hrs ago. "12 volt system in 231 will not start. Turn the key, nothing, no clicks silence. Found no - negative 12 volts from starter to solenoid. 0 dead. I supplied 12 v to the starter solenoid from another source and starter engaged. Just fine. So problem is starter switch not sending 12v to solenoid. Now the puzzler. At the ign switch on the I am getting less than 2 volts on the BAT terminal going into starter and I should be getting 12v. Looks like that 12 volts should be coming from the breaker "IGN"/CIG LIGHTER Ideas? After posting I went back out to plane. I checked voltage of cig lighter output - 2 volts, just like the hot to ign switch. So I snapped the breaker about ten times in and out and I saw the volts jump to 12. I have flown the plane regularly during covid about an hour a week. Then I had to go in hospital for an infection 2 weeks ago. So.................we all know the lesson. So if anyone is ever getting goffey low volt readings, try snapping the breaker. DOES ANYONE RECOMMEND A SHOT OF CONTACT CLEANER? If so, pls be specific. It will have to go in from the front. Contact cleaner in a syrengine? Thanks all. Hope you are all well.

Has anyone a new Dynon panel? Tks

Never mind on ailerons.: I figured that the ailerons out. Loose nut behind the yoke. Move the nosewheel a smidgeon and all is well. Still wondering on the pedal adjustment. Tks

2 questions. 1980 M20K; Just noticed that the ailerons favor the rh side. In neutral position the yokes favor the right. There is less travel from current "neutral" to the stop to the right than left. Feels like a spring missing? She flies great, AP works great. The ailerons travel as they should. No hanging or slapping around. I'd like to have the brakes engage "later". I want the toe brake action to begin over center more. Put another way I want to know if the pushrods that go from the pedals straight down, vertical, can be adjusted shorter. puzzled, Thanks

Fixed. The same problem as Mark. The magnet on the On-Off arm had slipped out of it's socket. Two cent fix. Big clue for the future is if your On-Off switch does not seem to travel like it used to, there could be something blocking it. Like the magnet. Whew! For you more experienced should I post this fix as a new post? I'd hate to see anyone pay loads of money for a loose magnet. Thanks to all.

Hello, Thanks for the reply. Yes on both except no flashing lights on lamp test.

Hello all. On the way back from OSH, my autopilot will not engage. From my reading, the panel switch is magnetic. Mine will not stay in up position. Panel fuse operates normally and makes no difference. Is there an inline fuse somewhere? Anyone have a wiring diagram? Trim works fine. tks

Nice engine. I have been stopping by their boot at OSH every year. What can be takin them so long is in red tape, I think.

I have a really nice 1980 231. My mission is out of Denver and 16k in 30 miles. She does the job well. However, the avionics bug has me. And the exp world is awash. I am looking for data on how a 10 compares. Here is my basic logic. Using 16k as standard, the 260 Lyc will be at about 15.4" or about 62% power which equates to about 161 HP. We can say the Mooney is still putting out 200 HP. But is it? Most likely we will be LOP and at a lower actual HP. I have a new (rebuilt) Skyways engine and just changed from mineral oil. I am a coward to try LOP because I cannot find anyone in Denver to be in cockpit with me who knows what they are doing. So I am burning about 13 GPH at 28" and life is good. I am seeing about 160-170 TAS. Anyone have an efis that will tell you what % HP you are when LOP at 16k?? After that we have to look at drag etc then compare all sorts of things that get real tricky. The MP comes from this thread.. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=88214 thoughts, Ideas?

Were you able to sell all your items? Looking for a TIT/CDT Tks

B & D Instruments 0227-005 TIT/CDT Gauge. Mine is actin up. Thanks

 I’ve seen this method before. ?

OK, It is a 1980 231K. You are correct.. This is a OEM probe. The problem is that neither the ship's TIT or CDT work. The gauge is a B&D instruments Valley Center Kansas. I will look for a wiring schematic and ck it is getting power. Continuity from probes to gauge is good. The wires to gauge are not a home run. There is a screw/bolt connection, then thru firewall. Anybody have a wiring pic for that instrument? Lookslike about 6 pins are used. Tks

Can anyone ID this type of probe Its is for the factor TIT and CDT. Roughly 1.25" exposed and .25 wide. I need 2. One for the old factory TIT and one for CDT. thanks Thanks

OK, Thanks He is not fluent in Mooneys. We will look for it. I see it in the wiring diagram, but no location reference that I can see.

1980 231k Where do I find the bus that becomes hot with the avionics master? I read about some plastic piece on pass side. Anyone have a pic? What wires could I follow to that one.? We are adding a bitching betty and I would like to have her not start bitching until I hit the avionics master. I also have a Davtron 655 OAT I need to power. Only place I can find is below pilot - under panel. However I cannot find any under there that are open/closed by the avionics master. Also, there are some inline fuses under the panel not labeled. As far as what items need to be run through the panel fuses, do we go with the "essential for safe flight" definition regarding what fuses have to be easily accessible and reset-able in flight? Betty is not essential for flight. To get to the back of the panel fuses, it looks like some de- riveting is required. Anyone have instructions on that one? Some people are like John Lennon- "let it be." Tks

Are we talking Harbor Freight? I don't know. Guess I will head to the dollar store. Mine is a Duracell 6/12v 1.5amp. Came with 10 amp fuse. I will ck and see if I am near any coax. Tks

I had been running a 1.5 amp trickle charger with less than 12" wire and plug near GPU door. Since there is no good way to fish out the plug, I decided to relocate over to the O2 door on starboard side. Nice setup...............but now radios acting weird. I am getting a high pitched sidetone hum when transmitting. I also am getting a really high pitched squeal from what seems to be other aircraft transmitting from a good distance out. When in the pattern, no high pitched squeal from pattern aircraft. Something has changed. No squeal with old setup. I soldered all joints and ran wires from battery to o2 door with M22759/16 gauge wire. Another change I made was to increase the GNS 480 volumes higher because I am having low volume issues. I turned up the "AMA", "COM" "SIDTON" AND "VOR". Thought I would throw it out there. First step will be to lower volumes, then shielded wire? Anybody been down this road? Thanks