Keith20EH

I have used Rudy’s Instrument Repair in Arkansas, I need to send him mine too. Quick, reasonable and fixed other gages for me.

I am interested in buying a control yoke from an E if anyone does the upgrade, I like the vintage look, and would like a spare. I just need the control, no pc valve or clock. My pc valve is long gone, and clock still works. No cracks please.

Have you checked your heater box? My E needed a “new” seal on the flapper valve, couldn’t completely stop heat from coming in until it was fixed.

Keep it imple.

.. in one smooth poetic motion, round out, rudder to get your wheels straight with the world, bank to stop the drift, touch down and as speed decreases maintain full aileron into the wind. Practice again, especially the smooth poetic motion part..

GNX375 if going IFR,

On my E, same problem as others, too much hot air. I checked the mixing valve rigging, new scat etc. I fixed it this summer by closing off part of the opening that allows air through the muffler shroud for the heater. It seemed I just had way too much volume of air. I made a cover plate of light aluminum, used an existing fastener on the cooling baffles, and closed off less than 1/2 of the opening. No more hot feet in the summer. Easily removed at the first frost. See highlighted area on attached screenshot.

Just replaced what I think is the original Dukes pump on my ‘66 E with an overhauled one from Aeromotors, looks awesome, time will tell $500.

It’s a cigarette lighter USB charging port and voltmeter. Felt like the original amp meter wasn’t quite the full story.

Love the dual G5’s. More gadgets to me aren’t better.

Thanks for the motivation! Just finished painting my floor and installed new Airtex carpet, seat lead time is now 20 weeks out..so back in with my original foam. Yes epoxy would be best, but enamel is good enough since it was mostly bare for the last 57 years.

Avemco wouldn’t wouldn’t touch my E based on a grass strip. 12,000+ hour pilot and high RG time didn’t matter.

Love my Garmin panel, not high end big screens, but very capable. Disregard the unfinished copilot side. Planning on a JPI 930 and a glove box. All of my engine gauges work so not urgent.

Gonna be at OSH again this year with my Culver, parked in “affordable vintage” on the flight line near the Red Barn, come say hi..

Now the old step servo resides on my shop museum shelf next to the removed gyro instruments, vacuum pump and and other assorted fossils.

BTW, after removing vac pump, filters hoses, regulator, servo, etc and adding electric servo, my empty weight dropped about 5 lbs to 1639.5

Hi Vintage fans, I just removed my vacuum pump, in prep for the Garmin auto pilot. I installed the Flight Enhancements electric step in place of the vacuum driven servo to raise and lower my step. The Kit and instructions were very good and complete. I only had to buy about 10 feet of wire, a switch and a fuse holder for the required 1 amp fuse. The install went well, slightly more than the estimated 5 hours. I used the air line as conduit to run the wire from the servo to a separate switch on my panel. I wanted the step to be operated after start and when taxiing in, not on the beacon or master switch, which is an option. The hardest part was removing the bracket the Brittain servo mounted to with a cut off wheel. (Very careful to not grind into anything other than the bracket). Here are a few picture to any one interested.

Love my E with Jbar, part of pax briefing is where back seaters can put their feet or “feed bag” so as not to interfere with gear retraction it extension. Worst part of the short body Mooney is getting everyone in and out. Once settled, usually there are no complaints. Buy the best example of any Mooney you can afford and take care of it for the next owner, you won’t regret it.

The E also has a “short” rudder, at least compared to a MSE or long body. Not sure about some of the other models. Depending on the x-wind or when lifting the nose off early on a soft field, it may take full rudder travel to keep it straight with full power. Reduced travel the faster you go, so if you hit the stop and it’s still turning, lower the nose and gain some speed.

Poplar Grove Airmotive, near Rockford, IL, overhauled my A1A. It was a little frustrating because of cylinder lead times and a few other annoyances, but in the end, I am very satisfied with my engine. About 175 smoh, and I very happy with the engine.

Thanks for the reply, but I guess that is what I was afraid of..

Reviving this thread: I now have the same problem in a ‘91 MSE, how in the heck do you get that cable out? The lower pedestal area that the indicator is in, looks riveted in, not sure how to proceed but think the “indicator” slipped off of the cable. Anyone get in there yet? Or will I have to be first? I am not seeing how to do it.

Not yet, it has been easier to fix the cracked pieces than start over, at least for now..

I just rebuilt my leaky flap pump with the Lasar kit, not that difficult, even bleeding from the actuator fwd to reservoir went well, but what I spent the most time on was the rigging of the pump valve cable. This has to be disconnected for pump removal. There is not much throw in the flap selector lever, so getting the valve set just right took some effort, too much movement and valve would not fully close, and flaps would bleed up, or not come down at all. Best to have a helper, because going from under wing to the flap controls and back under the wing is annoying.