tmo

My experience with two different powered wheelchairs was the same as PaulM's - it could somewhat move a C172 on level concrete, but not on grass. I believe they were 2x250W and 24V. My current attempt is a poor man's B5 clone - 2x 500W@24V DC motors with an integrated 1:6 gearbox with a 13T sprocket turning child ATV wheels with 49T sprockets, attached to a platform; front wheel will be 'loaded' with a winch and the contraption will be RC controlled via an Arduino board with a simple sketch to do the differential turning and so on. The next one will be a BLDC powered contraption with tracks instead of wheels and a scoop-like mechanism to hold the nosewheel.

First OPP I had made... I think I paid like $10 for a set of two (two different plastics).

That, partly, explains the price change...

Don't those kerosene heaters produce a lot of moisture in addition to heat? We have a diesel "torpedo" style heater that has a separate outlet for the warmed-up air and another one for the exhaust gasses.

I understood that closed cell foam is used exactly because it does not soak up / retain water.

Did you believe them? I wouldn't, especially WRT flooded batteries, but probably not for the GEL ones either. But I'd believe you. I mean, we're pushing <1C, do we really need to push it differently than a car does? I kind of doubt our voltage regulators are that precise, and flying often is said to be the best way to keep them batteries healthy.

Pull early, pull often?

I just bought a spare KI256, so it might be never, but when I get around to removing vacuum, I plan to replace the pump with the B&C backup alternator. The KNS80 stays put till I do something like 2xIFD or some such.

+1 for Don and his video.

OP, perhaps you should just look around for both J's and K's, and buy the one that ticks all the boxes that need to be ticked... Kind of paraphrasing Woody Allen, I guess...

https://mooneyspace.com/topic/46793-battery-capacity-testing-review-of-dtl150-a-35-battery-capacity-tester

Then there's this: https://mooneyspace.com/topic/46857-79-231-1400-tt-899-smoh-49900/ Pay $50k, spend another $100k to make it yours.

Does a factory rebuild include the turbo and all the ancillaries? Surely some extra money would be needed to re-fit the aftermarket wastegate and intercooler, too.

Not exactly about this particular plane, but I'd start with a list of things "my plane" must have - either already installed and working fine, or with a known estimate of cost to install, and go from there. My list of "options" started with a WAAS GPS, a working, coupled autopilot, and an engine monitor. The plane I ended up buying had the first two already installed, and I had an estimate of cost to install an EDM900, which I promptly purchased and have been getting the runaround about installation ever since (IOW, be careful when planning). No corrosion / sound airframe was a non-negotiable starting point. I'm not sure I'd spend $140k on a plane you'll need to drop another $10k on immediately, for ADS-B; I'd argue for TKS over LR tanks (the stock 72USG is enough for me) but that probably is too much to ask of a M20K you want to buy now (although there was one with TKS for sale in Germany, I think, not too long ago, see: https://www.planecheck.com?ent=da&id=57426).

No, only if you use the VOR for navigation; but it is literally free (I have a KNS80 and a GNS430W and do dual checks) so why not.