bavareze

Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes

Hello and happy new year! Problem 1: nose gear has too much L-R play (turning, not axial), causing shimmy during the landing rolls. Me and my mechanic believe the excessive play is a cumulative of various plays in the gear linkages, caused by wear. We hope that by replacing the truss 540004-501 the play will be reduced to something acceptable. To my disappointment, the only option I found so far is $3k exchange from LASAR. I think spending such an amount of money knowing that the problem (or most of it) could be elsewhere should be avoided. Now if I was to find a used part and a dismantler, we could only install it to see the results, as checking it beforehand would be inconclusive. Do I have any other options here? Do you see something obviously wrong with our strategy? Problem 2: the decorative panel surrounding my electrical switches is very worn out and I dislike it. I've been postponing it for over 5 years simply because I can't find a replacement part for it. Is there anybody who has a good used one? I also been advised to order a custom panel from an engraving shop but I don't have the data file required for such an order. Ideas? Thanks !

Hello! What are my options making this look prettier? I saw some people have an aluminum trim with embossed markings, that would be nice to have. Or anything else that's a bit prettier. Thanks!

The carburetor rebuilder lost the parts in marked in yellow. I'm especially after the mixture cable catch screw and hardware. Any ideas where to find that? Marve 10-4, 1963 M20C Thanks!

so as soon as I add a few psi of pressure to the reservoir, the flaps operate normally. But then they revert to inop as soon as there is no psi. It just feels like the inflow valve won't open by itself.

the fuel pressure was increasing when I tested the electric fuel pump prior to starting the engine. there was plenty of fuel in the carburetor bowl. I checked that by removing the bottom drain plug. the throttle lever feels like I'm not pumping anything when pushing/pulling it and I feel no fuel smell. It feels different than before, and this makes me believe it is not squirting. however: upon starting the engine, the engine has accelerates properly when pushing briskly the throttle - and this seems to indicate the pump is actually working. before starting to remove things and send the carburetor for overhaul, is there anything else I could do to confirm the problem or help it work? My guess it's that I have a sticking fuel valve at the pump, caused by not flying it for 6 months. Once that is unstuck, it should be good for another 60 years. But I might be wrong.

new day, new problem: tried to start the engine (1963 Model C, O360-A1D) - nothing, not even some pops. The throttle felt a little weird: when I was pushing it back and forth to prime the engine, it was less resistance. It didn't fell like i was pushing fuel. My plane does not have a separate primer, it is supposed to be primed with by pumping the throttle. Since I was already suspecting the primer, I squirted some fuel in the intake and the engine started right up with no issues. What's the best way to tackle this issue? Does the carburetor need to come out and send it somewhere to be fixed, or this is something that could be fixed with the carbuertor installed? Thanks!

The look and feel of 730 really doesn't fit in my panel, I was hoping to keep the old school look and feel.

No. I never touched anything. It's been sitting for 6 months, worked well before. No mx at all inbetween.

Been looking like this lately. What are my options to improve, so I can read the numbers, not just the bars? Thanks

Hello! Flaps were fine for 8 years, then the plane sat for 6 months. The fluid level is fine. Now it feels like the pump is not sucking fluid when raising the lever. The lever is soft and wants to go back, almost like there would be vacuum inside the pump. Then the flaps don't move down. I went under the plane, bled the slave cylinder - no more air. When I'm pressurizing the reservoir with a few PIS of air, the pump is sucking fluid and the flaps work just fine. But as soon as I release the pressure, the pump is again not working. Any ideas?

Thanks. I tried the adafruit bno055, the bosch imu as well as the tdk mpu8950. They wll use accelerometers to correct for gross pseudo-gyro drifting. But when subjected to a constant laterall acceleration, such as during a level 360 turn, they all start registering horizon being level with the wings of the plane, in essence mistakenly thinking a pendulum will always point to center of earth. I'll try the glonass thing to see if it is any better. On the meantime i started coding my own accelerometer-0seudo-gyro fusion method that should be able to reject the above mentioned pendulum error. What a headache!

:-)) We're here. Also you could come to hangar G at Airventure if you wanted to chat. Mine did same thing. One cylinder actually.... Which one is that?

Thanks for pointing out

Hi! This week we are presenting at the EAA Airventure our new portable autopilot. This patented design is easily removable and lightweight, bypassing the requirement for an STC or alteration form. You can see a video demo here: Or on our websitew Ww.autoyoke.com Thanks + Feedback welconed!

I am CFI/II flying out of KLOU and I have a Model C that I can put to work. I am occasionally in the Los Angeles area as well.

It's funny how $15k in avionics upgrades cant make a $300 ipad feel useless....

I dislike how my switch panel looks, including the area around the engine controls. I figure replacing it is an involving process - remove all cables, replace, rig all cables etc. I learned that other people have that panel made of molded aluminum with rounded corners. That one can be polished and lettering reapplied. But mine is a piece of plastic and the backing aluminum piece seems sharp edged. What are my options? Thanks

phew....

what did you use to glue it? I'm thinking this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=3m+upholstery&qid=1610249647&sr=8-1 Now talking about corrosion, I took some better pictures. Looks legit to me, only surface dirt that I'm gonna clean. Fuel hose hardened but not cracked or swollen. What do you guys think?

I did and I see wet in these two areas. Wettest is the around the fuel level sender. Maybe I should replace that first and see if the other lower part gets dry . Meaning there was one one leak that spilled everywhere...

I'll make it even $50k

1) Fuel stains inside the plane but also on the upper surface of the wing. Is the leak through the top wing surface, and fuel going slowly inside the plane (Blue circle) OR fuel leak in between fuselage and wing, staining the carpet and through capillarity reaching high enough to be seeping outside the plane (red circle) OR both? 2) what are those (green circle) hooks for? 3) wind coming in from under the door. What's the part number to order a new door seal? Thanks!

If anybody is still looking for HANGERS i found plenty available: https://www.amazon.com/High-Grade-Hangers-Smooth-Precisely-Camisole/dp/B075FBQB2W/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=hanger&qid=1610152383&sr=8-5 Pretty sure they deliver to South Florida as well.

I'm looking into partnering up with 1 or 2 people in this M20C that I just brought with me from California to Louisville. I owned it since around 2015 and never had big problems. Took me everywhere from Alaska to Guatemala. But now I don't fly as much as I used to, primarily because I'm CFI and need to fly in trainers mostly. But I wouldn't sell it because I still use it now and then, probably around 70hrs/year. Has around 4200TT and around 2000SMOH but only like 300STOH. At that time we checked camshaft corrosion and it was sparking clean. Everything works as it should except for the second GS. Has newish alternator, starter and fuel pump but not so new magnetos. Has a small leak from R tank (getting blue) but not a major concern for now, been like this past 4 years and didn't get worse. Corrosion is not a problem either. Interior I wanna say 7/10, paint is 4/10 (meaning that is pretty worn as you come closer but every year I cleaned the peeling and applied fresh primer to prevent corrosion). Flies super strongly, been with it as high as 16500ft and cruises straight at 145kt. Manual flaps and J-bar. Expired 430W database but has ADS-B out. I have it hangared at KLOU. Looking to sell 50-67% of it, priced at $55k OBO. Cheers!