bavareze

I'm not the best in electronic design. why would your design cause a .7 volts error? what about this design, with a 12V rechargeable battery to power the GT-50, recharged (when the master is on) through a diode from the main bus...

Hi. Looking to install a gt-50 chrono/g-meter in my mooney. I need an always on +12V connection for the clock in order to have it remember the time. The most obvious one was on the hot side of the master switch. But I noticed that is not directly hooked to the battery and the voltage drops once the master is turned on. Other than running a new wire through the firewall, do I have an option? Thanks http://www.fdatasystems.com/gt-50/

I have a parts catalog for Mooney M20 series. I can see there are 3 kinds of PC systems installed: 1965 model (using a remote gyro in the fuselage, part #11900-25), then the 1966 model that appears similar but simplified, then the 1967 and on model that uses the rate of turn instrument as a source of information. My plane is 1963 so I am guessing it is using something similar to the 1965 model. I'll have to check what it is, I only know for sure that the rate of turn instrument that I have in the plane does not have any output signal. Cheers!

I see this problem being split into 4 problems, to be solved: - tubing - servos - gyro - these 3 working together tubing I assume is pretty standard hose so I guess I'll leave that at the end. I do have the mooney service manual. I'll go check the gyro. Is that the rate of turn (DC unit) or the vacuum operated directional gyro? What if the servos are leaking? Is there a way to fix those without assistance from brittain? Cheers!

Hello! I owned this mooney for 2+ years and the PC never worked. I guess it is disconnected. But it is there, I can see the boots in the wings and in the tail cone. The mechanics I asked said don't worry about that, nobody knows how to fix it anymore and it won't do much for you anyways. After careful evaluation I realized that within the next 5-10 years I will likely not be in the position to upgrade to a different airplane so I think it makes sense to spend some money now and use that added feature for a good 5-10 years while I have this plane (1964 M20C). What would be a cost to overhaul the PC system and who could do it in SoCal? What about upgrading it to a heading bug or able to fly the plan from my GNS430W? Would that be an option? What about a budget? I heard that installing a conventional auto pilot with electric servos will cost me more than $10k and that is out of the question, so I'm trying to see if there is any hope with this PC system. Thanks!

Is idle mixture supposed to be adjusted during the annuals or is with carburetor installation? I did already a few annuals but nobody did that adjustment. I guess there won't be a problem picking up the impulse from the coil to tell accurate RPM even without a mechanical RPM gauge, if needed Anyways, the other day I flew to Grand Canyon. Left with 6 quarts oil, after a 4.5hrs round trip the oil was down to 5.8 quarts, so way less than 1 quart per 10hrs during this kind of flight. I will measure again when I have a chance.

well to me it looks like a lot of unburned oil might be coming out as vapor through the breather pipe. I remember seeing an advertisement for an air-oil separator that could be installed on these engines to save the oil. do you guys use one of those? maybe that's the case and cylinders are ok. also, I think the oil consumption is much lower when I have 5.5qt in. but when I put 7 then it goes quicker. So that reinforces my idea that the oil is being blown out rather than burned.

ok here's the deal my friends: the rpm gauge is nice and tight when over 1200rpm but gets shaky when close to idle so I can't really tell the if I can get the "lean idle rise" I have a JPI engine analizer for temperatures but without fuel flow. oil usage is I guess around 1qt for 5hrs but lately I have been doing only practice flights with many high power settings such as chandelles and takeoffs, no actual cruise time. I replaced all 4 cylinders and pistons some 150hrs ago with rebuilt ones. what's an ok oil consumption?

ok so next time I'll go I'll do the idle rise test and post results. then probably I should try to do approach and landing a little lean and see what I get.

Hi there! suppose you look at a '63 mooney m20c and see some black dirt on the right nose wheel door, obviously from exhaust fumes. you wash it, can't really clean it all because the paint got stained then after flying another 10hrs you wipe it and you see that much new deposit on the door. (obviously the deposit happens only with the door open, so think about 5 engine starts and 10 taxi/runup and maybe 20 takeoffs) would you believe something is wrong? Like mixture too rich? or is it normal to see that deposit there? the JPI shows around 1200F average while opening the throttle for runup with mixture full rich (sea level) and then during cruise 1450-1500 while leaned. Could it need be leaned more during taxi? Thanks!

here's the result: the cable is good but the engine side of the end came out of the crimped ending. I probably need to crimp it again to make it stay. when I'm putting it back do I use red grease from autozone or something else? electrical: see the last picture where I made a red circle. that nut was loose to the extent that I could move the wire around and the wire was getting very hot because of that. I guess I need to take it out completely, clean and tighten it properly. shall I use some battery grease or just dry? also I see a huge pile of washers used as a spacer but also as an electrical connection, see the yellow circle. is that ok? I'm also attaching pictures of the rest of the electrical system, maybe you have some input regarding what is good and what is bad. Had this plane for about 2 years, flew about 200 hrs so far, this is the first set of problems apart from the ones I solved just after buying it. Cheers!

so yesterday the tach start shaking much worse and I could hear it doing tic tic tic tic and then suddenly zero! it died I hope it is the cable this time. battery story did not occur again during 2 hrs flight. the only difference was yesterday was day and the other day was night. so maybe there is a load issue (more lights at night?) anyways, I will go look to see what kind of regulator I have and start cleaning connections with sand paper. will post results! Thanks Radu

hi my tacho has always been shaking but now it started doing it more. like this - see bellow. Is this likely to be the cable or the tachomoter? also a new problem just yesterday: suddenly I see the alternator is not charging. cycle the ATL FIELD switch, nothing. Then alt off, master off, master on, alt on : charging resumed and ran fine for 10 minutes, then again went to no charge. another test: turning master off , but leaving the alt on in the process, will cause all electrical things to turn off momentarily but then the charging resumed (with the master still off). so turning the master off caused the alternator to resume charging. where to start looking? Thanks!

pm sent acp

hi everybody looking to buy these asap: 560011-000 - gear lever assembly, manual gear 600063-5 air intake duct (under the carburetor) 600064 the soft part of the air duct any ideas where to look for them? Thanks!

1. Hi. I am used to seeing a typical loading formula that gives a weight and a CG. based on that you would go to a graph and see whether you are inside the envelope and if it is normal or utility category. I this vintage AFM it only gives 5 loading schedules (1 pilot, pilot + copilot etc) and assumes each one is no heavier than 170lbs. So if I want to load it with two guys weighing each 200lbs, I have no diagram to see if my CG would ft. Am I missing something or how should I do this calculation for this '63 plane? Also, I'm missing performance data such as time/fuel to altitude etc, fuel burn rate. The date of the AFM is october 61, which is what the FAA certification calls for. 2. I went ahead and purchased a 66 POH that has more info but still no loading diagram. Would the performance data from a 66 match those of the 63? Thanks

Airparts lockhaven wanted like $2k to overhaul Kelley Instruments of Wichita wanted somewhere between $100 to $150 to fix and calibrate each gauge, but will not issue certification. Since I only had problem with 1 or 2 gauges, I ended shipping it to them. I'll keep you posted how it goes. Thanks!

Hi there! apparently my oil temp gauge became a bit sticky. when I cut the master off it is not always going to zero unless I tap it. looks like it is unreliable. I was wondering what options do I have. I found on ebay a few used ones but most likely those are not very accurate either. any option repairing ? other ideas? Thanks!