Kelpro999

That’s good information but I would miss my favorite screwdriver

It's stiff, but not locked up. I will try hitting it with some tri-flow first before undertaking major surgery. My comment was to the original question. In your case some oil like others suggest will help. Also if you have the original H&E valve without a pull ring , there’s a drain tube directly down out of the selector valve. It has a check ball in it that can be used like a sump drain for the valve collector. I use a wooden stick as the usual fuel sample tool is too short.

It’s the selector shaft o-ring and position o-rings, fuel level is above the selector. Hardest part is the confined space with hard piping to it. Also requires draining tanks.

Unless it’s also lifted on wing jack points. If not then there’s more weight on the front because the arm difference between lifting points and main gear.

If you do remove the gear just be prepared to have it on jacks for some time. In the hanger not so bad but outside like I did can be a little unnerving at times.

I just recently did that

Putting external leaks aside, while I was testing paint removers for a less expensive more readily available alternative than polygon which there is none, I did find that many would soften and release the red top coat (air dried buna-n). Not so much the polysulfide sealant. This is most concerning as thin sheets of top coating will wrap the pickup tube screens. I would like to test 100ul on an original sealed access panel. Eventually will if I find some fuel.

1. Grabit pro screw extractor set. 2. DeWalt DCD703F1 XTREME™ 12V MAX Brushless Cordless 5-I’m in-1 Drill/Driver Kit 3. Articulating video scope 4. Quality inch pound torque wrench 5. wrenches and 1/4 drive sockets. Mostly 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2. 6. Kroil penetrating oil. Can’t forget an inspection mirror

Thanks for the reference material. Loose bearings definitely add one more axis to the failure mode, then again preload does increase pressure loading at a location none is desired.

This type of failure was very prevalent in semi trailer hubs while transported via rail. Our planes are subject to continuous vibrations while parked. This leads to false brinelling that looks like rust. This corrosion leads to vibration when in use. Vibration may be slight and masked by normal operations but very damaging to the delicate magnesium or aluminum cast rims utilizing thin profile bearings. I have nothing to prove this other than decades of observation. If our gear was parked on continuously moving treadmills then bearing and hub damage or tire deformation would be a thing of the past.

A little Deoxit d5 spray works magic with switch contacts

Given the cost of a new tire and the finicky nature of a Mooney’s front end. Using retreads ? Just the unknown radial force variation alone would steer me towards new.

popsicle sticks work well

Perhaps you’ve identified a Cirrus weak point. The scuppers and lower vents on my C had 63 year old paint with no fuel related deterioration. I’ve spilt plenty there over the last 10 years.

With the lack of blue dye and being an exterior low point this is a fairly bold statement. Other possibilities can include a concentration of other contaminants before, during and or after paint was applied then subject to time or other environmental factors.