flyingcheesehead

I'm really curious how this is wired. I'd love to have my lights do what Don's do, but with the MaxPulse instead of the too-expensive PulseLite system. I contacted Seaton Engineering (MaxPulse maker) and they gave me an idea using diodes that might do what I want.

Do you still have all six overhead light switches? Does the RECOG switch still do anything? The MaxPulse installation instructions make it look like you are supposed to bypass the original switch in the circuit. If the switch still works, do you need to have it on to get any pulse, or does turning it on turn the lights on solid regardless of the MaxPulse setting? Does the MaxPulse just control your recognition lights? I'd really like to make it flash like Don's...

Interesting. Do you still have a rotating beacon? That's what our sixth switch is.

Dangit Don, one post ago I had it all figured out what I was gonna do! But that is really sharp, I like the idea of alternately pulsing the taxi and recognition lights. How are your switches set up? Do you still have the split L&R taxi light switch? Is there a separate "Pulse" switch? Are your light switches on the panel or are they the newer overhead style? I wonder if the MaxPulse is capable of this?

Interesting. Can you post a pic? Sounds like that might be a good solution.

So you don't have the control visible at all? Or am I misunderstanding your description? I would like the ability to switch between solid on and wig-wag, but I certainly don't need all the options the MaxPulse provides. I'm more interested in a nice clean (and easy) install.

Hi all, We've got the new Whelen LED recognition lights, and I'd like the ability to pulse them, with hopefully minimal installation cost. We have the overhead light switch panel in a 1997 M20R, and I'm guessing that's where the wires go. Is there a replacement switch that could have off/pulse/on positions instead of just off and on? That would be ideal. Barring that, what else is out there for pulsing modern LED lights? As far as I can tell, the MaxPulse unit is about it, and it seems that would need to be installed in the panel and involve running extra wires to get there. What other solutions are there?

Here's a foolproof way that does NOT require three arms or hands. First, purge the lines as atpdave and carusoam describe above, with full throttle, mixture cutoff, and pump on. I like to do this by switching to the right tank and leaving the door open, because you can hear the sputtering of the return line in the right tank. When it stops sputtering, the purge is complete. Second, prime the engine exactly as if it's a cold start - Throttle a few turns in from idle, pump on and mixture rich for a few seconds, you know the drill because you do it all the time. Third: Pump off, all three engine controls firewalled. Start cranking (left hand) while simultaneously pulling the throttle slowly back with your right hand. It'll catch and start, and since you're already pulling the throttle toward idle it's very easy to avoid the "zoom" that most techniques cause.

What I really need to do is get the big French Mooney and the little American Mooney in the same place and get a pic with both of them!

Well it's not my avatar, but here's a pic I took the other day. I call it "a losing battle."

Well... Uh... I'm not sure it did. This is the first year in 17 years of flying that I've ever been not night current. Haven't used the lights a ton, and the only time I'd have them off with the master on would be during the day. It was the shop that discovered it at annual, and I told them to stop troubleshooting it because most shops aren't particularly good at electrical stuff. No other work done since lights were installed. I can't find the installation instructions, but they were pretty primitive. I mean, it's a simple bulb replacement. It was a single sheet. There's nothing new about the wiring. It sounds like the switch itself is also a breaker for the lights (as it was from the factory). How do I turn it off now? Well, with the master. Yes, that'll probably be the next thing I do... But I'm also pretty certain that it is coming from the annunciator panel. Got some PMs to that effect as well. That's the only place I can figure out where it'd be leaking current from the starter relay CB. ("START POWER" is one of the annunciators.)

That's just the problem - I don't have the drawing! For my s/n it should be number 800304 R5 Rev Y, but a schematic for any R should be better than the only one I could find which was for a J and thus missing recognition lights and other stuff that's running out there.

It's not "big iron" but I fly a TBM 850 and a TBM 900 for work (the "big French Mooneys") with the G1000 and GFC 700. For us, it's two positive rates, gear up, 115 KIAS, flaps up and YD on. We use manual electric pitch and rudder trim to set trims for takeoff prior to taxi, but the GFC700 does have the ability to trim the rudder, so the before-takeoff adjustment of rudder trim is the only one we do manually. We generally disengage the YD on final at the 500-foot callout. FWIW, I'm not particularly impressed with the YD on the GFC700. In bumpy air, it seems to constantly lag behind the actual motion of the airplane, as if it's just reacting too slowly to yaw. It also gets easily overwhelmed when the gear doesn't retract or extend perfectly evenly. However, having read the experiences of those here, I plan to include YD in my eventual GFC 500 purchase.

Hi all, I'm having an odd electrical issue and I'm hoping someone has an M20R wiring diagram or can offer some insight on how this might be happening. I have LED nav lights installed a year ago from Aero-Lites - It's a model they don't sell any more. The left one does not turn off when the nav light switch is turned off in the plane. I started pulling breakers to see what other circuits could be causing this. It appears that the only breaker required to power them normally is the 40A Right Aux one - Is the switch also a breaker? Now the really odd part. The juice that keeps it running can come from two different sources. If the Gear Warn breaker is in, the nav light will remain on at a medium (not full) intensity. If the Starter Relay breaker is in, it will remain on at a low intensity. Putting both in does result in a slightly higher intensity than just the Gear Warn breaker being in. What could be causing this? Thanks!

Things are definitely a bit weird with the G3X interfacing right now. The GDL 69 works with the GTN I think, but not the G3X, while the GDL 5XR units work with the G3X but not the GTNs. And five years ago most of us were looking at turn coordinators and altimeters/VSIs when our spinny gyro AIs went out.