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Everything posted by jkhirsch
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I definitely get not mixing up the holes, I'm not sure that you want to mix up holes in any situation, but they could have used another standard A/V size instead of creating the .206"
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From what I can see, the two reworked cylinders are coded with the blue "nitride" code and the two that haven't been touched do not have any color code on them. The "un-worked" two are from an original overhaul in 2003, would they have been factory nitrided and not color coded, or are they simply steel barrels. I do understand that the cylinders are physically composed of the same material.
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I apparently now have one side of my engine running two nitrided cylinders and the other side running two steel cylinders. All four of the cylinders are the "original" cylinders from the overhaul just had to put oil control rings in two of them and they have come back nitrided. The last set of two sets of compressions were 78 on the steel ones. Does this constitute a problem in anyones mind?
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A quick search effort yield no results so: Does anyone know the story behind the .206" mic jack? I can assume that it may just be related to "marketing" in that they made it nonstandard so that a whole bunch of new stuff had to be made, but that's much too boring.
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John, Just finished reading your thread and will continue to follow. Massive thanks for contributing your story. I have always had a thing for the Aerostars--I just don't exactly have the need for one yet--and I've thorougly enjoyed the read. Jeff
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a lot of times the planes are "tied up" so to speak due to litigation and sometimes cant even be sold. tried to buy an R182 and the owner was literally ransoming the log books
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Precision Engine at OWB Bill Scott, just dropped off a cylinder there for a Oil Control ring job. Learned more in 1.5 hours from him than any mechanic ever.
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Congrats! In 2003 Don Maxwell paid for the MOH on my `67 F because someone forgot to put a bolt in.
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I wonder if they have a limit because I could basically justify the cost of taking a long haul tank truck down there and buying the whole lot...
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Update: I confirmed yesterday with compression test and pulling the plugs that I will be replacing a second cylinder. This time number 4, when we put the air to it, it held compression then when we wiggled the prop we heard a click and then compression dropped to around 70 and shot straight back up. We brought in a second opinion and did the same thing only with my hand over the oil stem and when those events happened a burst of air shot out the stem. The mechanic also watched as a I warmed the plane up on the ground and when I went full power he noticed intermittent bursts of black smoke. So I'm sure as I get that fixed up one on the other side will go out. The new mechanic and I are going to pull the cylinder either Friday afternoon or Saturday and get it shipped to a guy in Owensboro, KY who is apparently a Lycoming guru. Maybe in a magical world it could be back together by then end of next week.
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At this point topic should be renamed: "Troubled New Mooney Owner" Update: Flew from KLEX to KBMG Friday without any noticeable issue. From KBMG to a "grass strip" near my grandparents' house, noticed a "roughness" during straight and level flight almost as if the compression ring broke right then as there in one of the cylinders. Check the induction valve that I had previously cleaned off and it is in fact leaking oil. Left the grass strip this morning with right around 6 quarts of oil (pressure normal during run-up and take off) ~30 minutes later I had to stop in KTEL due to ~25lbs of oil pressure and when I let it sit for about 25-30 minutes had less than 2 qts of oil on the dipstick. I added 4 qts and limped to KLEX then immediately called the shop that just finished the piston and rings on the front left cylinder (same cylinder the induction valve is leaking on July 2nd. In sheer surpirse they told me they could get it into the shop tomorrow so it looks like I'll be spending my afternoon over there with them. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it still has something to do with the cylinder that was reworked and not another cylinder with a broken ring. During the flight I also noticed a very strange electrical issue. I have been battling a generator that won't fully charge the battery and this morning I noticed that if I held the PTT switch on the passenger side (which my headset was plugged into) that the generator would crank the digital voltmeter right up to 14. I tried the PTT on the pilots side with no headset connected but it did no have the same affect. I was able to recover my multimeter from my grandfather's house yesterday though, so at least I can start poking around and pretending like I know what I'm doing. Hank: There's not anything located on the field (minus whatever's in the Commercial Terminal), but there is a place called Malone's a couple miles down the road which they want you to think is "famous," but there are plently of good places to eat.
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Update: Went to the airport today, thought I had the right tools...yeah I really don't care for Murphy lately. Either way a 13/16" 6-point too small for the plugs and 7/8" 6-point to small for the plugs a 15/16" 12-point too big. Aside from not having a workshop full of tools at my disposal I got the left side plugs off, one was fouled (not really a concern to me at this point) the one in the front left cylinder (the one that was JUST replaced) was wet with oil but not absolutely drowning either, the back plug also appeared to have a bit. When I went to take the right side plugs off the damn 15/16 just rounded the corners and would not take them off; therefore I could not really make a valid comparison to the other cylinders. Under normal circumstances should the plugs be "bone-dry" or should there be some amount of residue on them? In the mean time I noticed that I may have a leak from the Induction Valve on the cylinder that they replaced. I noticed a distinct brown-to-black spot on the access panel piece of cowling where it looked like some oil was being burned by the exhaust header and stained the panel. I wiped all of the oil off of the induction pipe and I am flying to KBMG sometime in the next 24-ish hours, since I've discovered how easy that panel is to remove it'll be the first thing I check when I land. I don't believe that I could be losing a quart of oil an hour through the induction valve without a noticeable leak out the bottom of the cowling or a more noticeable appearance of that much oil being evaporated by the header, but it certainly could create a combo effect. What are thoughts on the amount of oil that could be seemingly "disappearing" through an induction valve gasket leak? P.S. I bicycled 23 miles today which helps with the 160 pounds, soaking wet in winter clothing, that I contribute to the useful load.
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Update: I determined that the Master Relay was indeed the one that was sticking and I was able unstick it for the time being and get the plane started, of course then the start showed signs of disease. I saw the thread where tony was looking for a replacement for his 6041H231 which is now the H105. I found an unused surplus H231 from a parts place but haven't gotten the price yet, the only price I found for the H105 was ~230 from peerless electronics. Can anyone else chime in on this? Today the project is to get a deep well socket and check the bottom plugs for oil, then reinstall the battery and see if I can start from it because I'm not full convinced that the battery isn't shot. I had a Concorde that was around 7 years old in my 172 when I finally killed it on a 25 degree late night in Orlando, FL of all places, so I'll eventually be making that swap as well. I may also begin to examine the generator problem. A new generator and a zeftronics G1500N generator control unit were installed at the end of April last year so I may at least be able to contact Western Aviation for some guidance on this one. I have basically seen where everyone who has done the conversion it is happy, and I intend to upgrade the avionics in mine as well so it would appear in the future there is no question on the alternator conversion.
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Update from the airport: I have filled in some of the gaps in my valley of EE ignorance. The two unknown components I have identified as the external power relay and the "master power relay." I have also now decided that the electrical clicking I was hearing was is a stuck plunger in one of these relays which is why the electrical system was shutting down any time I tried to "switch the relay on." The next obvious step is to determine which solenoid the plunger is stuck in, which I am headed out to do now.
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Hello everyone let me start by complimenting you on the community you have here. I have become very acquainted with your forums since January. I am going to tell the brief story of my plane (1 pic on flightaware) and I am also facing a few issues that I would like some guidance on. Rather than make several threads I thought it better to contain it all here, so be ready for a long read. I bought a 172P in October of 2010 and last Fall started the process of upgrading to either a Mooney or a Debonair. I bought 64M at the end of March and it was delivered to me in Lexington, KY from Spokane, WA on Apr 23-24th, I was completely thrilled with it. I flew the plane 3.5 hours for my insurance check out and then 2 more hours visiting family. Somewhere in the next hour of flight the compression ring broke in half on the "left seat" cylinder nearest the prop. There is a discrepancy in Mustang Aviation's paperwork as to whether that is the #3 cylinder or #2 someone who knows can probably correct that without having to look it up. Thirty-three days and approximately $2500 later the cylinder was replaced, now 20 hours on the Tach Time later the engine is still burning 1qt of oil an hour. The 33 days took place during June essentially. I am also considering a conversion to an alternator because I have had nothing but trouble with the generator since I got the plane: On delivery the previous owner instructed to reset the circuit breaker for the generator if it was not showing the appropriate voltage upon run-up. In April of last year last year the previous partnership replaced the generator (1101915) and the voltage regulator (G1500N), they apparently still had issues because in August they replaced the generator and bus bar circuit breakers; in addition they installed a Digital Voltmeter. Before Mustang began the cylinder work the electrical system appeared to work normally according to the instructions I was given by the previous owner, during last week's flying the resetting the circuit breaker appeared to have no effect and I was able a couple of times to turn off the avionics and reset the master switch which appeared to reset the generator circuit, so to speak. ON Top of ALL of that during my travels last week apparently a lineman at Stephen's at KGSP hooked up a 28 volt GPU when I asked for a 12-volt jump, and now whenever I turn on the master switch everything looks normal. However if I turn on anything, engage starter, avionics, landing light, it kills the entire electrical system. After much fooling around I discovered that if I left the master switch on I could wiggle the ground plug around and the electrical system would "short" back on, only to be shorted out again by the previously mentioned steps. During the wiggling I noticed that when the electric would short back on I would hear a sort of vibration or electrical clicking sound. I have pulled the battery and performed the same steps with the cables jumpered to my car battery. I took the battery to Batteries Plus to use their load tester and with no load the battery had 13 volts and under load dropped to 10 and I now have it on a "battery tender." There are two components attached directly to the battery that I do not know what are, one is one top in a small plastic enclosure the other is on the far side and is labeled "connector relay." I assume the connector relay is the "power relay" from the electrical diagram found in the Mooney service manual, but I really have no idea. I apologize for such a long narrative, but as much as I fell in love the day I got 64M I am as much in despair now, especially considering my wings are clipped until I can figure out this electrical problem. As much sympathy as my friends and family have for me I desperately need some input from others in the Mooney community. I am also looking for a good and respectable shop, or person who knows Mooneys somewhere near KY. Thank you in advance for the patience it took to read through my whole narrative, I look forward to your feedback. Jeff