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MB65E

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About MB65E

  • Birthday 03/17/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Left Coast
  • Interests
    Old airplanes and Porsches
  • Model
    M20E 1965

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  1. He took the most beautiful photos. I remember this photo he took on a hike. It was this purple lavender field in a forest at sunrise. The camera captured the dew on the lavender through the sunlight. Just about as spectacular as you could imagine. He posted it on the site, but the early photos no longer exist. His Mooney upgrades were just as nice! All the best to his family, -Matt
  2. There are 3 gasket types, two pressure screens and 2 different remote oil filter housings. I had the wrong gasket on mine. Blocking the oil cooler only when it was warm. -Matt
  3. 337 Is required as any repair to a flight control is a Major repair. As well as one for removing the STC’d. I don’t think the SRM has any repairs to Flight controls allowed. I would look for a new rudder or leave it alone. -Matt
  4. Wrap the tabs/holes with .040 safety wire and support the tube with a wrench. Rip and pull hard quickly. A little lube on the ramps works well too -Matt
  5. Working on a project requiring 4 new G275 units with AP function. Units can be class 1. Install kits preferred. Garmin is 6-8 weeks behind. Please advise, -Matt
  6. How is Paul? Haven’t seen his name in a long time. I know several left the site a while back. Hope you are well! -Matt
  7. That Orange ish color… May I recommend a copper metallic?? The swoosh on the tail I feel is overdone these days. While it looks great still, it would be neat to revise the tail a bit. -Matt
  8. Sounds like a typical night in the Midwest during winter. I’ve brought batteries back to the hotel, Drained oil at shutdown. Then poured fresh new oil in the AM after the night at the warm hotel. -Matt
  9. Early E’s & F’s are brutal!! 8h is a fair outcome. What starter came off? Baffling changes required if anything other than the NL starter. Mine is sealed tightly, removing the FWD baffeling is really tough. I’d rather pull the prop. The starter lead doesn’t fit the new stud sometimes as well. Even going from an LS starter to the NL starter. I have never had my lower cowling on and off in the same day for perspective. You should try the R&R for practice. -Matt
  10. Gosh, while PB blaster is amazing stuff. You won’t be able to get rid of the smell. My old 944 still stinks up the garage from years ago because of the PB blaster. ACF50 Is great. Try this stuff! It smells good too! https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/09-03022.php?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo9yM0Yj5igMV_JjuAR2ZywZNEAAYAiAAEgJkKvD_BwE -Matt
  11. Flying it is cheap compared to the ejection seats. -Matt
  12. I was really hoping for a cool T38 import derivative! -Matt
  13. Not wrong to think CV grease would be good. Unsure of the percentage of molybdenum. As a helicopter tech, a lot of Airbus helicopters use g355 NYCO 06 grease. I recently went down the path of “let’s use this.” But it’s a graphite grease and not a molybdenum grease. After additional research, Molybdenum has better properties. I was able to grab the molybdenum pouches from an online bike shop and mix them myself with aeroshell 7. Again it’s by volume and not weight. I also feel that Aeroshell 64 would be good as well. It was not around when the Mooney AMM was written, but haven’t used it either. It’s been covered in certain depths her but the search function isn’t great. -Matt
  14. Check the alternator bracket/Arm. I’ve seen them paper thin due to ware. It’s behind the baffeling and untouched by many. -Matt
  15. Interesting. Could be loctite. Definitely not the propeller then. -Matt
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