kmyfm20s

NICE!!!!

Awesome!

I used to fly a 182 and fly to Mexico but now fly a J. I think Zane hit most of the big items. The big difference for me was that I could go on so many more trips nonstop, what a time savings. I haven't flow into mexico with this plane yet but would not hesitate to take it to all the strips I did in my 182, 4 of which are dirt. Getting a excellent instructor for transition training and knowing its stall charateristics, approach speeds and prop clearance will greatly enhance your confidence in this plane. I flew out of Jackson WY to San Diego last fall after Elk hunting with my saddle, riffle, backpacking gear, coolers full of Elk, and full tanks. That trip took 5:05hrs, 42.3 gallon of gas and 739 nm. This used to be a fuel stop trip in the past with my 182 and it's nonstop in my J. You will rub shoulder more in the cabin and climbing through a single door is different but not bad. Hopefully your passenger has a nice butt:)

In the class Bravo you just have to be invited by the controller to have a drink with them. Then your good to go!

What RPM at those levels? 2700?

I get the feeling there may be some more ramp checks in the future.

Good video of a Lycoming assembly. Amazing how simple they are!

How much range did you get out of that cordless phone?

Just 2 weeks ago I made it all the way to the run up area before realizing I had my Pitot cover on. A good lesson on getting distracted while doing a preflight. As a result I want to buy a cover with a little flag that goes above the wing.

Pulse Oximeters are great to have in the plane. Are bodies performance should be looked at in a similar fasion to the planes performance in regards to density altitude not the altimeter reading. I have flown many hot summer days and seen my my O2 levels drop far enough to start using O2 below 12500 ft.

My plane goes in for its annual on Monday, we'll see!

I just replaced my kick boards and they came with corrugated plastic instead of that cardboard. I wish I weight them before i installed them but between the old shag carpet and cardboard they are lighter.

The heat exchanger actually pulls the moisture out of the air as condensation. So in humid environments you could have some puddles forming under the unit, although the fan might put the condensation right back in the air and having a net effect of zero. Depends on the passenger choice but going naked might have a net increase in the humidity:)

During the summer months I would plan on just leaving the unit in the plane. It was my assumtion that you would first put the cooler in the plane then add the ice, then either pump or syphon the water out. At least thats how I would handle it in my case. So the additional weight of a small motorcycle size battery to power the unit for maybe 20 minutes to precool the cabin, preflight and start up the plane would make it much more functional than having to unplug and handle an extension cord. Both have weight and volume but unplugging and handling the extension cord would cause the cabin to heat back up. So when I get back to the hanger I would drain the water and plug in the battery. With a soft cover over a hard cooler with many handles that can serve as lash points, shape shouldn't be a problem. With the way I described that I would load the ice and drain the water with it in place, it just has to be able to fit through the baggage door, it can be manipulated after that. I also agree that 32 degree ice is not as great as 0 degree but my experience is unless your FBO sells bags of it out of a freezer, machine ice is wet and not 0 degrees. As I mentioned I have a chest freezer in my hangar,I would plan on making my own block ice and buying cube ice(Costco). In the morning put a block with some cubes around it. I figure by the time the ice melts down from sitting in the cooler I would not have to add the water. Yes, directable vent is needed!

I know I am on the extreme side of needs as a potential customer but here is what I would want. I commute often for work so it has to be functional and fit into the routine. I fly from the cool coast landing at 7:30am to the hot desert were the plane sits in the sun until I leave in the peak heat of the day. Going to the desert in the morning it is cool enought that it is not necessary for the A/C but deffinately when I leave in temperatures commonly at 105 plus it would be great!. I do cover my plane and leave bagage door proped open and pilot window open to allow circulation so the interior isn't cooking when I get in. Even though I am sure the FBO has Ice I would prefer to stock pile ice in my chest freezer in the Hangar. This way I can toss it into the cooler as part of the pre-flight and not hold me up at the end of the day when I am ready to go home. I rather sweat 15 minutes in the plane than sweat at the FBO waitng for ice and having to load it. So here is my wish list! 1.Excellent cooler to maintain ice through out the day until departure. 2.Soft cover with multiple handles to manuver the cooler into place, add to the insulating properties and to prevent scuffing. 3.Ability to drain melted Ice and water with out lifting the cooler out of the plane. 4.Integrated deep cycle battery to last though preflight to get the initial cabin cool before the onboard power is available. Shore power as well. 5.Remote on/off. 6.Able to fit through a Mooney baggage door! I will add more as I think of it but hope this helps.

Worked perfectly!

I used Krylon paint and Airtex interiors. I thought the most difficult part was the ceiling panel with the ducts. I ended up just leaving it be, so I do have a little two tone on the plastic but not one person has noticed it. My mechanic said he has just taped them off and painted it in place before. The carpet, back seats and kick panel where easy and just took time. I took the the front seats, panel insert and arms rest to the auto apolstery shop. I gave them the material and the front seat kit from Airtex and they put those on for me which cost about $450 to be done. The carpet and back seat are lined with foam that sticks when you pull it up. I used a wire brush attachment on a drill and a shop vacuum at the same time which worked great. As far as staging I would take out the seat, panel inserts and arm rest and get them to the apolstery shop. Take the panels out, paint them and let them cure. Then work on pulling up the carpet, cleaning off the remaining foam, place the new carpet and kick panels. Then the same thing with the back seat. Replace the newly painted panels and by that time the apolserty shop will be done with everything and can be placed back in. You will want 2 cans of the Airtex cement for the carpets and back seats and 3M 2 sided tape for the panel inserts. The entire project took me 4 evening after work with a total cost of around $3000 with leather front seats and headrests.

Sounds like it functions as good as it looks! I would pay the fine and keep my lips from turning purple:)

On second thought you better get the booster:)

They can put an inline booster but I think you would be happier just buying a BlueLink. I have one even though my audio panel is set up for music/telephone input and works. I find the Blue link is less hassle with the adjustments and better sound quality. The any problem is not being able to share the music with the passengers.

For me if I have to move up from my J I think the Ovation is the way to go. I have no knowledge of the Ovation performance the mid and high teens so I look forward to the replies. My concern would be flying IFR for your route, do you want to stay in the soup or get above it? All my IFR flights in a NA planes in that area I couldn't effectively get above the weather. My last flight was solid IMC from Portland to Redding and it would have been nice to get above it. I would be more inclined to be in a Turbo for only that reason.

Awesome! You have definitely got me interested in entering one. When does the stop watch start? On the runway or passing a point once you are in the air? I'm thinking of doing the ID, CO, and AZ race.

I like those units to, I'm on my second! Damn expensive!!

Viscous circle of preheating!

It is for take off that you really want all 2700 rpm. At 2625 you might be missing out on 10 to 15 Hp.