Need crankshaft and cylinders.

[Lood]

My bad dream has now turned into a nightmare, unfortunately. Previously, two hairline cracks were detected in my crankcase and I decided to buy a brand new one. However, when my engine was split, the shop found that the camshaft, with its components were in such bad condition, it had to be replaced. So, I bought a complete new cam kit.

They also found that the crankshaft had been damaged and I had to send it all the way to the US to have it repaired. After 3 weeks and almost $2k later, the shop in the US informed us that the crankshaft had been grinded down to -10, but there's still a visible groove. As a result, my crankshaft has now been red-tagged and is not suited for any further use and I have to buy a new one.

I have a prospective buyer for my Mooney, but in case he decides to withdraw, I'm doing a complete firewall forward overhaul. With NEW parts, I'd like to add. NO RECONDITIONED OR OVERHAULED PARTS EVER AGAIN IN MY ENGINE!

I need to get some quotes from shops in the US that sell Lycoming parts. I need advice on reputable dealers and I will also appreciate your input on which cylinders would be best. I see there different brand names, etc available. I want the best.

Since my engine was split and I already bought new parts to the amount of almost $14k, a factory reman, or new engine, is not an option anymore.

Your advice will be highly appreciated.

[jetdriven]

After 2K in work, they decide the crank couldnt be turned and it was scrapped?  W T F ??? Who are these scoundrels?

[Lood]

The quote from my guy here in SA was R15k in ZAR. With the exchange rate at that time, it amounted to $2083.00 and I had to pay it up front. I must add that this included the shipping costs from SA to the US and back.

I did ask whether the crankshaft could not have been measured beforehand, in order to determine whether it was indeed fixable, but apparently it couldn't? Or should I say that neither the mechanic at my engine shop, nor the repair shop in the US were able to determine this in advance.

It won't help for me to blame anybody now as it's water under the bridge. However, my mechanic has been doing engines for about 30 years now and has probably "seen it all" during his time. He was sure that the crankshaft could be saved. Anyhow, for what it's worth, I'll find out which repair shop in the US did the work and I'll let you know.

[jetdriven]

Let us ll know, because that was just plain BS milking you.  They could have turned that one journal for 200$, and if it cleaned up at .10 under, they could have done all the other work to it then. Instead, they run the bill up to some ridiculous number, Magnafluxing it, zyglo, clean, and machine it, then announce it is scrap afyer it was all done.   I know the game. I am sorry it happened to you. 

[N601RX]

Sorry to hear about your continuing problems.  Someone is pulling one over on you with the crank.  Rick Romans and Aircraft specialties in Tulsa both 2 of the best shops here in the US and have a $50 reject fee if they attempt to grind your crank and it does not clean up.  The magnaflux reject fee is $40.  Both very reasonable.  I had them grind my rods, mains, do a dynamic balance, renitride, plate the snout and recertify my crank back in Feb of this year and it was only $600.  It shouldn't be anywhere near $2000.

Here is a link to their web page prices including the reject fee. 

http://aircraft-specialties.com/mach.html

Rick Romans is a small shop and doesn't have a web page, but you can call them and they are very helpful. You can actually talk to the person is doing the work.

Are you dealing with the crank overhauler yourself, or is your mechanic taking care of it?

As for as cylinders you only have one choice if they are angled valve.  Lycoming. 

It is not always possible to measure a crank and tell if it will clean up or not. To grind a crank .010 the are only taking .005 off all the way around.  Then assume the crank is already worn .002 or .003 and now they only have .007 to remove of which .0035 comes off all the way around. There is 3 journals front, middle, and rear which must all true up on the same axis.  Add a little bend or uneven wear and there is nothing left to remove.

[Shadrach]

Lood,

I'm really sorry to read this, it's a heart breaker.  I've kept up with your saga from the beginning and commend you for maintaining a decent attitude.  I hope things improve for you soon.

[DaV8or]

Quote: N601RX

I had them grind my rods, mains, do a dynamic balance, renitride, plate the snout and recertify my crank back in Feb of this year and it was only $600.  It shouldn't be anywhere near $2000.

[DaV8or]

Lood-

I really feel for you. I feel like we all have a ticking time bomb under the cowling that is ready to blow up our happy days of aircraft ownership at any time. Your nightmare could happen to any of us at any time. You unfortunately, have the added disadvantage of being remotely located from the parts supply.

All I can recommend, is take that crank, find a flywheel for it, paint it or, plate it, stand it on it's end, cut a piece of nice glass and make a small cocktail table out of it.

[Lood]

Thanks to all fro the advice and kind words.

Interestingly enough, when I started asking questions, metioned that I have a few (MooneySpace) friends in the US that thought otherwise and stated a few figures mentioned earlier in this thread, I got a few very welcome answers.

Aircraft Specialities is indeed the US company that the crankshaft was sent to. They only worked on the damaged journal and $50 later, they red tagged the crank. So, lets just call it a small communication gap between myself and my local agent that is now sorted. The whole exercise only cost me $50 plus shipping - all in all about $500. I will be refunded for the outstanding $1500. So, I'm happy again.

I still have to buy a new crank, however and the quotes that I currently have in hand are $4500 for a crank alone from ECI or $6500 for a complete crank kit from Lycoming. Flying is not cheap...

[N601RX]

Glad to here that. $50 is reasonable, given the time it takes.  Ask Chad at Aircraft Specialties what he can get you a new crank for. I'll pm you his e-mail if you want to contact him directly.  He also might have have some recertified ones, which I personally would not have a problem with.  Most people don't know this but Lycoming at one time and may still be shipping .003 undersized cranks in NEW engines.  When they make a new crank the jounals are hand polished to final size.  Being human, they ocasionally get one to small and rather than scrap it they just make it .003 under and ship it as a new one.

I visited both the shops I mentioned above when I was getting my work done and was impressed with both.  They are side by side and both took the time to show me around and explain what they would do to recondition my parts.  They visually inspected my parts while I watched and told me with the exception of the crank gear all the parts should pass if there were no susprises.  Both did what they said and there was no susprises on the bill.

 

[Lood]

Thanks Mike, I'll appreciate that e-mail.

[jetdriven]

THat explains Lycoming's 5K rebate only if you send them back a first-run core.  The crankshaft is almost guaranteed to be reusable.