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The dome light switch in our '67C is the type that you rotate between thumb and forefinger to turn the light on/off. As you rotate it about 1/2 turn it clicks. As shown in the photo, the switch is too short. It does not protrude beyond the fixture so is impossible to use. I took the fixture off yesterday for a look, and the tip of the switch shaft is rounded and smooth, as if it were made that way. Now I know that this cannot be the case. The shaft seems to be made of plastic, and is about 1/4" dia. Has anyone (1) had this problem and (2) come up with an elegant fix? Of course, I would like to extend the shaft 1/2 and make it a target for a passenger to hit their head on Other options will be considered. Please no hijacking this thread to discuss Star Trek "Force Fieldz" and "Tractor Beamz".

The press-to-test switch for my annuciators broke during an avionics install. One of the lugs on the bottom. It is an ALCO (now Tyco) MSP205R switch. A DPDT switch. Not made any more. Also, no info on the switch connections. I think that the replacement is an MPA206R. Anyone know if this will work or have any idea how to test the terminals so I can figure out what wires to connect where? Thanks very much.

I am searching for an electric trim switch for my 1984 M20J. The base of my trim control switch that mounts to the yolk has cracked. I believe this is an OEM switch assembly, but I cannot locate the correct part number to replace it. If anyone knows where I might look for the part number or where I can order a replacement, please contact me with any info. Thanks, Dan King dsking001@yahoo.com

First flight yesterday...after takeoff and gear/flap retraction, the electric trim failed to move...uh oh...my plane isn't happy with me for not flying her for two weeks. Reset the trim breaker...and nothing. Ok, it's now hand trimming all the way to destination...no biggie but like all long bodies, they do require judicious use of trim especially for landing. After a bit of "prayer" on the ground....the electric trim worked just fine on the return trip. Go figure. I think it's just dirt in the trim switch on the yoke. What's the best way to clean it out? Should I unscrew it from the yoke and just spray contact cleaner on it?

So I finished installation of all my interior panels after a long remodeling process and now my avionics master switch will not power my avionics. The only thing I can think that would have anything to do with it is when I disconnected the speaker and lighting wires on the overhead panel. I have always had an additional switch in the circuit breaker panel that also powers my avionics as an alternate source but now it is the only way I can get power to the avionics. I also noticed that when I cranked the aircraft to run it up, the aircraft wants to shut down if I select the right magneto. When I select the left magneto I don't even get a drop on RPM. Does anyone have an idea as to what might be causing these issues?

OK, as I posted previously we are selling the old serviceable rocker switches from our 1977 M20J. Up for sale first is a radio master switch. This is Mooney part number 930023-013, and is a Klixon (now Sensata) 20TC2-BG-3. Technical information for this switch may be found here: http://www.peerlesselectronics.com/store/products/20TC2%252dBG%252d3.html It is a 3 amp switch/circuit breaker. $49 plus shipping, this is a great price. Edit, this has sold. Lasted less than eight hours. I'll have more rockers available soon. Thanks!

Good Evening Mooneyspace folks, Discrepancy: Noticed radio static during run-up, after annual completion. Background: "high low volts" problem discovered during night landing 4/10/2013 (discovered 24V landing light installed in 14V system, R & R with PMA LED Landing Light. Replaced voltage regulator, Oil Pressure system and Fuel Pressure system amplifiers, CHT and probe R & R’d….returned to service 5-11-2013 (cost $3500) "high low volts" problem 1/13/2014 (see Annunciator Troubleshooting) Radio Static Repair: After researching Mooneyspace, several forum posts recommended checking master switch first for corrosion. While inspecting for corrosion all “male terminals” on back of switch were clean. However one “female” terminal appeared burnt at locations where previous maintenance had crimped vinyl heat shrink. The wire run appears to go to voltage regulator Notes from attached photos: 1) Burn marks common to crimped locations 2) Discoloration of 0.25” female terminal connection 3) No discoloration of 18 AWG wiring. (0.1 milliohms) 1-27-14, I will install new pre soldered AWG 18 terminal end and heat shrink to R & R wire terminal end. Question: Has anyone else seen burnt wiring and do you know what the root cause was? Thank You Steve

I was wondering if anyone knows of a pannel modification where I could install rocker switches instead of toggle switches installed on my M20C. I saw a nice set on aircraft spruce but I don't know if this can be done. Can anyone share any experience making a modification like this? Can it be done legally? Below is a link for the one I like: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveoRockRack.php?clickkey=3846