TWinter

Thank you sir!! -Tom

Okay..Most folks are not feeling the Comanche. Got it. Just thought I'd toss it out there. Thread drift. This was "Looking for any interest in a partner in the west TN area in a Twin Comanche.". No interest and that's cool..Time to close the store. Put the sign up that says "Gone Fishin". -Tom

Don't know, but I asked about info on the correct belt?

Been a maintenance month for 7741M. Seems like lately every trip I've been scrubbed for one reason or another. I've searched some for the part number and I'm seeing various threads and not sure I'm finding the right answer. I went up last night and lost a alternator belt about 10 miles from home. I thought I would get one ordered and headed this way so my IA can get started next week, but want to make sure I'm getting the correct one. These pics are what was left of the one I had on it. I think the correct one is: 37A19773-376 LYCOMING ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT .380 WID Part #: 08-00249 Spruce Am I looking at the correct one? Here are pics for reference I also notice some movement in the alternator when I move it my hand..about a quarter to half inch movement when pushing around near the bottom. Bottom looks tight and safety wire is still instact...normal or possible broke upper mount? Just inquiring out my own curiosity, I'm sure we will see the cause when he takes the front cowl off. You cant see it in the pictures, but the alternator is Electrosystems Inc. From what I can tell doing some cross-referencing it should be ALY-8420L S Really just checking if this is the right belt? Thanks much in advance.. -Tom

Excellent points and I will check very carefully. Like I said nothing is etched in stone..It is just an idea and a opportunity that presented itself. Thought I would toss it out there. There is a fellow pilot here that would do a partnership in a Baron in a minute, but pricing puts them out of reach for both of us. The Comanche was just an idea as an easy way to be able to take the a folks or friends along with easy access in and out. A hanger buddy and I are scheduling our multi in Smyrna, TN. They fly and instruct in a Duchess. It is a 10 hr course. Hope to schedule next month. Regardless what happens with the Comanche I would like to get my multi. Thanks for the input and thoughts....My insurance guy did say a Comanche would be eat my lunch in rates, he preferred we consider a Seneca. As a insurance guy and instructor he said the insurance and so forth would be much more favorable w/ Seneca and it is easier to fly vs. the Comanche. -Tom

Just reply to thread and PM if interested please. I like the idea of a twin as a second plane for family and true 4 place hauls, if this can be had for $70-75k it's a good deal. I've seen the plane, flown in it and I've see how well it has been taken care of. I'm not a buyer at 100K..w/ the right person I would consider it at $70-75k w/ a good partner. -Tom

I get the point of the post and agree with much of it, but really brother... was the last sentence necessary? I'm tough skinned, but that was just not right.

I hear ya..if I was in Texas and you found a Baron I'd be in also.. Not sure my pockets are deep enough for ones I've seen advertised.

That's why I posted: He is asking 100k. Not sure my offer will be that, but at least we have a starting point. I have 70-75 in mind..

Just tossing this out there..There is a retired Doctor that lives in Dyersburg (west TN) and has a 64ish? Twin Comanche he is wanting to sell ( well he and his family). The doctor is declining in health and the family has decided to sell the plane. His nephew had planned to buy it, but also a doctor will be living in California for a few years and then back to TN. It's what this man lived for and truly enjoyed..religious about maintenance and had made several upgrades over the years. He is in his 80s has not piloted in several years and usually has another doctor friend fly him around the patch once in a while. I have no intentions of selling my Mooney, but as we all occasionally have a need to haul more weight than the mighty Mooney can handle here is an opportunity to purchase the Comanche. The doc would like to see it stay local. I have an interest in purchasing this or making an offer. Since all of us Mooney owners occasionally need more room I was posting to see if anybody fairly nearby would be interested in partnership on this.. If sincere I can get you more info. The plane is mid-time engine with several speed mods. ADSB was just installed. He is asking 100k. Not sure my offer will be that, but at least we have a starting point. PM me if you are interested.. -Tom

I still keep my XM active on my 796 portable.. I've tried the SXAR1 and did not think the pixel was as clear as my 796 w/ the old GXM40 hockey puck...My GDL88 w/ ADSB on the 750 looks kind of blocky in my opinion as well. I've not tried the new XM add-on Sporty's is advertising. Was worried it would be like the SXAR1. Still keep the XM for a while. -Tom

We had to improvise... Here was my solution for a short-body E. There is a extension that can go on front or swap it around and you can put the drink holder on the front side.

Quick update and close out. Original problem was no or very slow starting. Progressively getting worse. Flooded on nearly every attempt to start. 1. Start with checking the simple and checked plugs and looked for shorts etc. Installed new plugs. 2. Initial diagnosis from shop was possible left mag bad. We replaced the new mag. 3. While we were waiting on mag to arrive I discovered a broken terminal on the ignition switch housing. Replaced with new While it seemed just slightly better, it still flooded very easy and still took several cranks resulting in no start. I was having to resort to flooded start procedure. I might get lucky with the three handed shuffle and catch it just right, but something was definitely not right. Since we had buzzing from the SOS and had spark using the Don Maxwell technique to check the SOS box we started to looks at possible fuel delivery issue? I had previously ordered a new SOS box earlier last week knowing I would return it if we got it going prior and before checking the spark. After seeing spark and hearing the buzzing I was pretty sure I would be returning the box to Spruce. Today before getting totally discouraged I thought WTH. I'm going to try the new SOS box to just see... Installed it and pulled it out for a shot in the dark... Put the key in, turn and all of a sudden in two swings she fires to life. So quick I did not even get a chance to listen for the new SOS buzz, I wondered if it would sound different than the old original 1973 box. I let it run for a few minutes, then shut is down. I gave another try and a few swings of the prop and she fires again..mags check good :). A few more hot starts and it cranks every time. Looks like problem solved.. Moral to the story... Just because there is buzzing and you have spark in the SOS don't rule out 40 yr old electronics as the possible culprit, it can hide very well and still be defective. Even if it took $2300 total shot gun repair to find the gremlin. Two hours of flying tonight with various stops, shut downs and restarts. All good to go. I truly believe it starts better now than it ever has since my last 6 yrs of caretaker ship. Now back in the air and working toward that IFR. -Tom

Or make your calls on the Unicom frequency ( Unicom folks were outside watering the plants so couldn't correct me) and I missed the fact they also have a CTAF.. Yep, happened in to me in PA. I landed one way and a Cessna came in right after the other way. Fortunately, I was landing on the correct runway according to AWOS. Kind of two wrongs didn't make a right. oops. It was a little awkward as I was paying for my fuel and neither of us mentioned anything to each other. Filled up and headed out the same runway I came in on, but of course announcing on the CTAF this time.

PM sent -Tom

Looking at options. Thought about repair, but that is a tiny space to work in. Spruce is $540 for the Bendix replacement. Electroair is much cheaper, but I'm not sure I have the real estate needed the way my panel is set-up. I'll do more checking when I get back to the hanger tomorrow. -Tom

Old days would have to call a expert tech and be in hold for an hour while they thumbed through manuals and microfiche. Now if we have a problem and post it we have years of experience and knowledge with answers at the stroke of the key..I always say I like the way things were way back then, but sometimes I have to admit technology and internet is a wonderful tool. -Tom

A HUGE thanks to MS and the wisdom shared. Extra shout to Clarence and his quick replies and expertise. It's great having years of experience at the finger tips. One way or another we will manage to keep these old birds in the air....as long as we have MS that is -Tom

Here is a close up. You can see it has wear and appears to have been attached to the switch. Looks like the connecting point (rivet or whatever) had broken loose. Your thoughts? The screw actually threads from the other side making the bridge, but the bottom base looks like it should have been secured (riveted) or attached. It was not attached to the switch at the base. Looks like it broke off? Note the rough bottom and the switch had a wear area where it looks like it had been.

Clarence, The little bar. looked like it was to be connected to the small copper hole (like the others that are riveted to the ignition)?. Should the one in my hand be attached to the switch? Copper rivet holds the right side. Is the left supposed to be riveted to the open copper hole.. Hard to explain, but do you see what I'm asking? The bottom of the piece in my hand has wear and looks like it was attached to the switch near the vacant copper looking hole. Was this riveted there at one point and now has broken off? Am I making any sense?

Took a few minutes this morning after reading all the posts and suggestions. Decided to take a look at the ignition switch. What I found was interesting. The wire was attached to the broken side and it literally fell apart in my hand. Not sure if it's the culprit or just a part of the problem. It does show that I'll need to repair or replace the ignition switch. I also had one ring terminal wire very loose. -Tom

Good morning all, just getting caught up on the posts. I'll pass this info on to him and tell him all the suggestions. Clarence..thanks and we will give it a try.

Still researching..The switch has not been touched (wiring) since I've owned it (6 yr). The mag is brand new from Spruce and part #s are correct. Really think 40 yrs of switch off/on may have reached it's last swing of the blade. I must say it did feel good hearing the girl fire up after taking the P-Lead off. Still trying to find a source for replacement. of switch. Thanks -Tom

Update: Mechanic installed the new left mag today. We had also replaced the plugs prior. SOS and all seem to test correct. Here is where we are now. Got everything buttoned up for start up. Crank, crank still no turnover. Then he decides to check key ignition positions on the mags and if they were getting proper current. Turns out that when we get to the start position and I press the key in I'm getting ground at the left mag. He took the P-Lead off the left mag (sp?..I not a mechanic, but learning a lot watching them trouble-shoot) tried again and the engine fired right up in a few swings. Shut down and did additional tries with P-lead back on the left mag. Again and no start. P-lead off the left again and it started right up again. Disconnected the starter hot to just test the left mag. Everytime I pushed the key in for ignition left mag shows grounding. Testing of the switch in / off/ rght/left mag showed ground at correct times, but the left is showing ground at start with ignition pushed in preventing start. He's researching, but now we are to possible ignition switch defective. Anybody have thoughts about this or agree or disagree? if so what is the best (quickest source) for new ignition switch. Part # if anybody knows where and who to find one. I'm starting to have withdrawals. -Tom

Adding mixture after it catches and starts to clear, I guess I wasn't clear Sometimes I have to hold my head just right, raise my lip and curl my toes..Just do whatever it takes, instinct kind of takes over as it gets close and fires. We all know the feeling. -Tom