garytex

Jetdriven: Thanks, I'll keep looking. I also stand in front of the refrigerator "where'se the milk?" Gary

A smart old A&P showed me this trick. Problem was that on O-300 engine with oil filter adaptor the filter had to be honked down to not leak. Summertime oil temps were always over 200 dF, sometimes 235. If lubricated with engine oil, the filter would stick. His suggestion, Dow silicone dielectric grease worked like a champ, never stuck, lubricated the filter gasket during tightening, and perhaps yielded a better seal. Maybe because the gasket slid around without being stressed during tightening, or maybe the grease actually sealed it. Anyhow worked fine lasta longtime Gary

I was reading old posts and ran across one where someone was speaking of draining the pitot/static system, using a drain located about where the battery case vent tubes are. He indicated that he would get all kinds of wild readings when it had water in it. My flight was just after the first rain we have had here in Austin in months. I haven't found the drain on my '67 F, and I have looked. Am I blind and clueless, as my wife maintains, or do I not have said drain? Thanks, Gary

ECI price for a new angle valve Titan cylinder FOR EXPERIMENTAL USE ONLY $1,900.00

" I also see them from time to time as I drive away." Oooo, stupid Coyotes...can I come visit? All of ours that are left are smart as hell. Quote: DaV8or I'm at a small rural airport and at night the gun might be most useful for the packs coyotes that scrounge the fields for rabits and skunks I guess. I've been down there at night quite a bit lately and the coyotes howling in packs is kind of creepy. I also see them from time to time as I drive away. Criminals by the gas pump? Not so much.

Just talked to ECI. They think angle valve jugs actually are harder to pour and machine, so there is some justification for the price diference. They sell a new angle valve cylinder for experimental use only. Big X through the part number. There is talk about FAA aproval, which is not easy or cheap, same talk for the last 15 years according to the fellow I spoke to. They are still doing the IFR process which includes de-mating and pressure anealing the heads on their overhauls, which will fight embrittlement from age and previous welding done with either theirs or other metal composition welding rod. Thats just what I want, the inside of a jug that looks like Joan Rivers face. The IFR process costs about the same as a new parralel valve jug, so no-one does it on parallel valve, they just buy a new parralel valve jug.

Quote: KSMooniac 155 MIAS at 11,500...sorry I gotta throw a flag on that! No way I believe that on an F at 8.0 GPH. Something is amiss with the ASI and/or pitot-static system. Even with all the mods, I find that extremely unlikely. On the GPS run, did you fly 4 headings, or 4 ground tracks? The best way to do it is fly 3 ground TRACKS 120 degrees apart, otherwise you won't get a true reading if flying headings.

Yours are the parallel valve cylinders, with lots of new options for $1100. They may be Millenium, which are good cylinders. Mine are exchange cyls. during a cheapie OH about 10 years ago and they have given trouble per the logs, with one off right now. I have 12 hrs in the plane and it is down for cyl work. I hate old worn-out over-used welded, fatigued-head unknown history jugs Played that game back when there were no aftermarket jugs. It sucked then, and I suspct it will suck again. The difference is that I could land the 170 just about anywhere. The Mooney, not so much. Quote: rbridges Yes.

Gee whiz it is like the bad old days before PMA cylinders. I am a big fan of new cylinders, and just looked at pricing, and I am offended at $2,100. cylinders when Lycoming sells the parallel valve for $1,100. What an unpleasant suprise. Seems like the only difference is that Lycoming has no competition on these, and is gouging. What are you guys using? Any gossip on PMA? Who do you like as a cylinder overhauler? Ugh, I hate overhauled cylinders. Like a used condom, you never know how long the damn thing has been in service. And with a relatively low recruitment of new cylinders into the overhaul pool, I bet some of these have been through the OH process more times than an easier to replace cylinder. Aluminum fatigues. Ooo...Bad. I don't know which I like less, being gouged, or overhauled cylinders. Gary

KSMooniac: On the 4 way gps speed run it burned 10.3 gph at 155 kt. The other day it burned 8.0 at 155 MPH indicated at 11,500 ft. Mcstealth: I concur, but 50 rop is where the seller wanted to run it, and he was flying. I will be spending no time there myself. I wonder if that explains the 500 hr cylinder OH times he was getting.

I think there may be something to what Piloto says. I had an old Cessna 170 that had the static port wide open and unconnected in the back. It showed airspeed variences when you opened the window. Not much, 5 mph or so. Quote: Piloto True, but the ASI would then read low.

The 155 kts was a 4 way GPS speed run average. 7500 ft., WOT, Ram open, 2500 rpm, 50 deg rich of peak, 10.3 GPH, OAT24 deg C, 400lbs Pax, 1/2 fuel. The cowl looks like a 201 cowl with just a tiniest little bit more protruberant chin, and there are wing and tail filets, and every gap that doesn't sell jeans is sealed. One piece belly pan. And the brakes are rotated. I can't claim any credit for any of this, I just bought what the gods of chance offered that was close and handy. I don't think the engine is particularly strong, I think I just got airframe lucky and mod lucky.

If the unleaded avgas of the future fails to materialize, or costs $10. or $15. a gallon, the reasonable alternative is Mogas. Jetdriven is right about ethanol being poison. It can be convincingly argued (and I think in the final analysis it is true) that it saves no imported oil, drives up food costs, lowers fuel economy and is certainly bad for the environment (lots of nitrogen fertilizer). It also sucks in boats, lawn mowers etc. I for one intend to do my little bit whenever I chat with politicians to try to make it go away. The old no alcohol mogas was great stuff, with the exception of a shorter tank life. 8.5 compression engines can run on 91 octane, I suspect that the IO-360 A1A could do so also with shorter pistons (easy change) or 20 Deg BTDC (easier change) timing, or Tat-ta-ta-Dah nothing more than electronic ignition with variable timing and knock sensors. But the alcohol has got to go.

I just bought one with lots of SWTA mods, runs 155 kt. But even the un modded ones mostly run that fast. See the F report on the MAPA site. I love mine. Gary

That's slick

One can know what one is getting with a remanufactured engine, and it is all in being familiar with a shop's output. This is where a good A & P can be of great help, as they play the game frequently, instead of once every 10 or 20 years. The mechanic will have an established relationship with whoever their pick is. What you should be hearing is about are the many engines the A & P has installed for his other customers, how the overhauler fixed this or that problem on so and so's engine, when that infrequently happens. A mechanic that will go to bat for you when there are problems with any parts is really worthwhile. For what it's worth, lots of mechanics in Central Texas use Custom Airmotive in Tulsa for 320 and 360 s, good motors, good service. I suspect that there is someone like that in your area. Talk to your local mechanics. The smart ones will know, and the good ones will only let you use an overhauler who will not screw you.

One can know what one is getting with a remanufactured engine, and it is all in being familiar with a shop's output. This is where a good A & P can be of great help, as they play the game frequently, instead of once every 10 or 20 years. The mechanic will have an established relationship with whoever their pick is. What you should be hearing is about are the many engines the A & P has installed for his other customers, how the overhauler fixed this or that problem on so and so's engine, when that infrequently happens. A mechanic that will go to bat for you when there are problems with any parts is really worthwhile. For what it's worth, lots of mechanics in Central Texas use Custom Airmotive in Tulsa for 320 and 360 s, good motors, good service. I suspect that there is someone like that in your area. Talk to your local mechanics. The smart ones will know, and the good ones will only let you use an overhauler who will not screw you.

Ah reality rears it's ugly head. 155 kts is probably right. I guess it does not matter how tarted up it is, it is not going to outrun gregwatts 201. Nice to dream for a while though. Maybe the true airspeed calculator I used suffered GIGO. The tarting includes cowl, wing root and tail fairings, and break disc rotation. I'm inclined to believe the burn hoever, as the gas pump and the totalizer agree. I'm going to have to find a standard sea level day and check takeoff fuel flow. Thanks for your input, Gary

I need to put one of those scoops in. Summer in Texas in a Mooney does seem a little threatening, doesn't it.

I finally got to fly my normal commute in my new F.. I was at 11,500, trying to figure out the autopilot, PC, why my GPS and encoder weren't working and doing the "if that''s Camp Wood I'm south of course, surly that's Camp Wood, isn't it?" thing. Don't call me Shirley. I noted some indicated airspeeds, and when home made them true, and got to wondering if I don't also need a new ASI too? Pressure Alt 11,390. WOT, ram closed, 19 inches MP, 7 Deg C, 35 Gal fuel, 2300 lbs, CG slightly forward. GPH Ind. MPH EGT 7.1 147 1350 8.0 155 1390 - 1440 8.3 162 1400 - 1450 Max power My true airspeed would have been 196 mph, which seems way fast. The plane has a full boat of SWTA mods. During the pre purchase GPS 4 directions it flew 175 mph 25-25, 50 ROP 24 deg C, which seemed reasonable to me. The plane is going into the shop Tue. for to deal with several issues, should a new ASI be on the list? Also who makes a good True ASI. I hate not having True airspeed. What about the electronic ones with an encoder. I may need a new encoder anyway. Two birds? Thanks and happy holidays Gary

I have used the 3M adhesive remover that Shadrack mentioned, and thought it worked well. Compared to MEK it scored low on the obnoxious scale. MEK is a very nasty solvent.

To decide between Mooneys, look at the MAPA site and see the E F and C flight tests. they are wonderful info sources. Join Avaition Consumer and look at their multitude of airplane reviews. I just completed my complex rating, transitioning from 400 hrs in a 170 taildragger and 600 hrs in a Cheetah to an M20 F today. I made the transition, but there is lots going on in the cockpit, it's all happening fast, as all the speeds are faster, and the consequences for being a little off attitude, gear, flaps, manifold pressure or speed are all harder to cure than in simpler airplanes. I was frequently behind the airplane but by the end of the day took the plane home and made the most soul satisfying landing I've made in a long time. The Mooney is harder to land but easier to fly, stable in pitch and heading, and goes like the hammers of hell on surprisingly little fuel. If you decide on a complex airplane, you might want to learn the basics well in a simple airplane, then transition. You don't want to beat your complex airplane up doing touch and goes, do you? Alternatively, if you have the time, (because it will take longer) learn in a plane you own and intend to keep. I learned in a taildragger at an airport on top of a high hill, with roiling air and down drafts on approach and roiling updrafts off the other end. It took longer, but I didn't care, and after that I could land anything with great finesse. And that was very satisfying. Have fun Gary

Yes, we've both got the inter-cyl. baffle between front and back cyls. that hangs from the support bar across the barrels. The parts I do not have are the front and back barrel and head wraps. There are several additional pieces that protect the front side of the front head from direct ram airflow, and force the cooling air to wrap around the cyl. barrel before it and escape into the lower cowling. Air Salvage of Dallas is having a sale this weekend, the baffle leprechaun and I may wander up there and see what we might find. Poof Gary

Also check the security of your connections at the master switch, especially if they are the slip on (spade) connections. One side of the switch is alternator field, tho other is everything else. When the field circuit becomes intermittent charging jumps around. The spade type are the weak ones, but easy to fix, just slide them back and forth a little. If really loose pinch the female side down a little bit with pliers. The ring and screw ones can give trouble too. The other place that will jump up and bite you is corroded battery terminals. They will look fine assembled, but have corrosion at the contact points. Two mechanics and I fought that one, replacing voltage regulators, checking the generator for several months. DOH! Gary

Higher altitudes make it harder for your harness to transmit spark (less insulating air). Lean mixtures are harder to ignite. Maybe the combination is stacking up on you and showing you a weak ignition chain. Any one cyl. go dead first? I would clean the cigarettes with acetone, (because thats all I can think of that I could do, and it's a step most mechanics don't deign to do, and they may be dirty. Fingerprints are enough to generate jump overs.) and suspect harness, then plugs, then mag. Gary