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MarkC

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Everything posted by MarkC

  1. I have the following available for sale after a panel upgrade to my M20C. All items were working when removed except for the CHT gauge on the cluster. Prices listed plus actual shipping charges. Garwin cluster gauge. All functioning except for the CHT. $100 KT-76 Transponder. $100 Directional Gyro – Edie-Aire 400QD1 G502A. $300 MX-170C Nav/Comm. $1900 - SOLD Garmin GNC 300XL. $1500 PC Servos (set of 4). May need re-taping. $200 - SOLD Collins IND-350A. $150 TC-100 Turn Coordinator. $100 - SOLD Trans-Cal SSD120 Altitude Digitizer. $50 JPI Fuel Scan 450. $200 Ameri-King AK-950. $50
  2. It looks like it could be, but I am not sure. So I wanted to check in here to see if anyone knew for sure.
  3. I need to replace the 2.5 inch ID duct tubing on the top of the cabin heat box assembly pictured below. The part number is 760016-505, but I cannot locate a translation of that into any specifications (i.e. temperature handling) needed to order a replacement. Does anyone have any information on this? Actually, mine is missing the dump tube, number 80 in the diagram, that connects to the top of the box and dumps down near the cowling. Thanks, Mark
  4. Hi John, Thanks for checking in. I elected to just replace the LASAR with two new Slick magnetos. The feedback I kept getting from the mechanic was scarcity of parts and difficulty to maintain. I am still waiting on the mechanic to complete the work, but I hope to have it done soon. I hope that the regular mags helps the CHT issue a bit. There is another thread on M20C CHT's that is very active right now and makes for some really interesting reading. I have made a few changes to 27N since you last saw her. I have updated some of the avionics and re-done the interior. I will send you some pictures. Mark
  5. Thanks for all the feedback. I think I am going to remove the LASAR and most likely go back to standard magnetos. But, I will take a look at Surefly for one.
  6. I am looking for thoughts on this ignition system. My Mooney has an early version of the LASAR electronic ignition installed. It has come time for the Mag inspection. My particular version of the LASAR ignition has circuit boards in each of the two mags and the condenser is located on a box mounted on the firewall long with other controlling electronics. The plane is down for it's annual right now and I had asked the mechanic to inspect and repair as necessary the mags. His recommendation is to replace the LASAR ignition with standard Slick magnetos. The point he made was this is an older version of the LASAR ignition system and relatively speaking hard to keep running correctly. I have never had any issues with the LASAR ignition, but I have read other stories where folks have had lots of issues. The only related issue perhaps that I have is hight CHT's which some say can be attributed to the electronic ignition. Anyone with experience with this system?
  7. I have had a little experience with this situation too. Once you have addressed the O rings and cotter pins as others have posted above, I have another item to check if you still have the issue. My cap levers did not want to "snap" down and firmly close either. They actually wanted to stand up a little from the down and closed position. I disassembled the caps and noticed that the flat surface on the bottom of the lever no longer had a sharp 90 degree corner at the edge where it rotates up. I used a belt sander and sanded the flat bottom of the lever to return it much closer to a sharp 90 degree turn at the edge. Over time, the open and closing operation of the lever had worked that sharp turn down on my fuel cap levers. Now the snap closed rather smartly and stay there. Mark
  8. DXB, you are correct with the parts manual reference. I was looking at the wrong model in the parts manual. So it is 55 in the parts manual that I am referring to. I will have to check the carb heat connection on mine and report back. I am certain it is connected someplace because it works!
  9. Here's a picture of the opening. The parts manual shows it and notes it as "Tube, Blast". The cap has been removed as I took the picture.
  10. I have a question about the engine baffle on my M20C. Right behind the #3 cylinder on the back side of the baffle there is a round ~1 inch diameter opening that has a flange where it looks like you would attach a vent tube. But, mine has the opening capped with a plastic cap held in place with a hose clamp. Should that flange have a length of scat tube attached that runs down to the bottom of the engine compartment for venting? It sure seems like it would help reduce the engine temps on #3. Any advice appreciated.
  11. +1 to check for an intake leak. This was the cause for me once. Mark
  12. Planning to fly the Fisk arrival on Saturday and camp. I am not caravan certified so I will have to pass on that, but I am looking forward to seeing and meeting a lot of fellow MooneySpacer's this summer!
  13. Yes, sorry about that. I meant to say I would like to have one for the co-pilot side. If that is possible just let me know how much to send!
  14. I would love to have 1 for the pilot side as well if that's possible. -Mark
  15. Nice installation Jose. W4ZF here. I sense there may be a Mooney HF net about to get started... Mark
  16. I am sorry to report that the autograph is no longer there. I read the part where Gordon said that Al had signed the flashing near the instrument panel, but I cannot find any evidence of that. I'm not sure where exactly this would place the signature. The panel itself was re-configured many years ago to a standard six pack. I have noticed that the flashing on the co-pilot's side appears to have been replaced at some point. Perhaps someone kept a souvenir along the way sometime.
  17. I can second Andy's recommendation on the book. It is a great read especially for any Mooney fan. And by the way, I am the current owner of Gordon Baxter's M20C. The old girl is still flying well. Mark
  18. Thanks again everyone. I disconnected the aileron as described and found an access hole. But the access hole on my plane was not aligned directly with the nut on the servo. I did use a right angle wrench and it was just enough to remove the nut turning it about 1/16th of a rev each time I engaged it. So I was able to remove the servo and reattach the tubing and it now appears to be securely attached. Thanks for all the good advice.
  19. Thanks for the input guys. You are confirming a lot of what I am seeing
  20. The vacuum tube has become disconnected from the right wing servo for the PC system on my C model. I have studied it as best I can but cannot see how to get access to the rear to see how to reconnect. Any advice?
  21. 1.4 today. Like many of you, just seemed like a great morning for a leisurely flight to enjoy the scenery and solitude early in the day before the family dinner and football for the remainder of the day.
  22. Another thought here as to possible cause for the stumble or even shut down when applying carb heat at run-up. After eliminating the usual things like butterfly, leaky exhaust, check the float bowl on that carb. If it has worked loose it can cause the engine to quit because of the additional air being sucked in and making the mixture too lean. When the float bowl was loose on mine I would see excessive RPM drop at run-up.
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