planebones

Lets do it! When is a good time to call you? Ken 307-699-0087

do you still have our landing gear parts. thanks Ken 307-699-0087

Greetings: I am an anyhwhere map lover (even though I worry they will go out of business....haven't seen any forward progress for a long time) My back up GPS died so I woul be interested in your PDA . Thanks Ken 307-699-0087

I need a set of landing gear shock disks and towers if your are in good shpe thanks Ken

Would like to have my own set of rigging boards, landing gear rigging tools and bungy changing tools.( copies and homebuilt stuff fine with me.) Or rent me stuff. thanks Ken Mc 307-699-0087

I just bought a descent old C model but it flies half a ball out at cruise, requiring some pretty heavy right rudder? Rigging seems good after a perfunary check with a prop protracter. it Doesn't seem to want to roll to the right or left when ball is kept in center. Rudder and nosewheel seem to track together. Anyone have any experience in this realm? thanks Ken

I bought a set of used shock towers from a more modern Mooney that had Lord mount rubbers.....I hope that is all I need to convert my old Firestone rig over....I can't tell from the Service bulletin or ridiculously expensive kits the fancy shops offer??????

Any of you Mooneyophyles have the tools you could rent me.? My 63 still has the Firestones and they have got to go! Thanks Ken 307-699-0087

I am needing an EGT set up and any spare 760 channel radios. Thanks Ken 307-699-0087

On my "C" model the PC's control valve (aft of firewall left side) became "stuck" I removed it cleaned it, polished "shuttle valve" and reassembled and now works perfect. Also check that small hoses are not cracked or loose at the fittings. Ken A&P/IA

Your friendly local A&P/IA here to remind new owners of old Mooneys to run a "prop-tach" or other tachometer calibration method on your plane before you run at 2500........My M20-C reads 70rpm low. A lot of guys who brag about their speed are doing so because their tach reads low....I run at 2500/ WOT. (calibrated RPM) ...but I wouldn't run at 2600 all day. ....Ken

The engine overhaul manual tells "runout limits" for the engine....normally performed on a set of blocks on a bench.....you are doing it in the engine....not as easy....but doable. Personally, if a guy realized he was landing gear up and shoved the throttle to the wall trying to go around and in the process pretzeled the prop under power.....i think the engine should be torn apart, rightdown to magneto rebuild etc. A power off prop strike that eats the tips off all three (or two) bl .... that bades evenly, although nothing to sneeze about, is not the tramatic event as the former. Ken

Before you let anyone tell you you need a complete teardown and etc. (as would be the case with a TCM brand engine) study Avco Lycoming Service bulletin 533A and 475C and AD 2004-10-14. My interpretation is that if the shaft is not bent, you remove the engine, rear acc. case, change a bolt and lock tab, check out gears etc. and return to service. Ken A&P/ IA . If you see it different let me know.

Have someone run an optical tachometer on your plane (can buy one at Aircraft spruce). If your tach is reading slow you will be very impressed with your ol' Mooney's speed but will be burning lots of fuel. Your Man. pressure guage should read barometric pressure minus one inch for each 1000' above sea level (more or less) when sitting on the ground engine off....If it is way off from that you may be pulling more pressure than the guage reads and thus more fuel burn....My plane reads 75RPM slow....I placard it and adjust accordingly...I live at high altitude and always fly above 10k density alt. & still seem to burn and average of 9gph..Ken McCune A&P/IA 65 M20-C N7851V

Just to fuel your madness: I bought a gear uppped M20-C at an AIg auction last year with exact same damage for $95000. i bought a used prop, rebuilt the belly skins, did the prop strike inspection, changed out the retract springs, welded up the ground off truss, replaced one flap hinge bracket.....Now have a $15,000 Mooney. Yes i am an A&P and had probably 90hrs of work in the repairs. Read the Lycoming Service bulletins concerning prop strikes....a complete teardown is not required, just remove the engine and inspect the rear gear section and change a couple of bolts. Ken

Howdy from Driggs Idaho:(West side of the Teton range....near Jackson Hole, WY) I have N7851V 1965 M20-C all stock VFR. I am an A&P/IA (if you ever need help in this area) My wife and I just completed a 6 week, once in a lifetime 50 hr. lap around the western U.S. & Canada, St Louis at 108F, Oshkoch, and return. Camped next to the plane 10 nights. My WIFE says it was the most enjoyable thing we have ever done. If anyone needs any border crossing advice call me! Old Mooneys are great 2 place traveling machines for cheapskates. Ken McCune

I found some older posts concerning door seals but didn't find much information. I am in a winter refurb of interior and figured I might as well replace the door seals. It seems some former owner had covered the aircraft with plastic, gooped black silicone on the door and slammed her shut....And believe it or not the thing seals well and requires no fuss to get the door to shut.....but is ugly. It seems that a "D shaped hollow seal would be appropriate for these. What have you'ze guys done? Thanks Ken

My 65'M20C's retract lever boot at the floorboards is shot. Has anyone come up with a good replacement? thanks Planebones.

Howdy: I am an A&P/IA and M20C owner. I had a M20A (termite hotel) whose engine hadn't bee overhauled since the 70's and never had any trouble right up to 2000hrs. The fuel and oil hoses should be changed every 8 years or so. The mags are probably due the 500hr mandatory inspection so go ahead and have them overhauled Spark plug wires deteriorate over time Older engines may develop leaks requiring simple gasket changes ,(valve cover gaskets, prop seals. ). The carburetor probably needs the new float installed in it (as per Volare service bulletin,) so that gets new gaskets at that time. You could change the accelerator pump seal at that time with little added expense. I do not see age as a large negative factor (caveat: I live in Idaho where humidities are low and internal engine corrosion is not a problem. ) Ken

Have you looked at the "slap on" sun shade/ visor that Sporties Pilot shop sells for $7? ..works good....last long time.

What kind of preheater rigs have you guys come up with? The cowl flap opening is too small for most hoses to go up there....thanks Ken

I went out to start my M20-C (has shower of sparks system) this glorious morning for a cruisle around the Tetons. Hangar is kept at 35F, outside it was 8F. (balmy day for eastern Idaho) and I had a hard time starting it . My former Mooney had a primer & life was good. What are your starting techniques? How many times can I pump the throttle with out risking an induction fire? thanks Ken in Driggs ID.