kellym

Quote: N9453V Byron nailed it. Did some additional investigation today, pulled the prop through a few revolutions and compressions felt normal. Then did a mag check with the elevated EGT on #4 and sure enough the top plug in cylinder #4 wasn't firing. I did get it to clear, but I'm going to replace all top plugs this week. Thanks for all the input and helpful suggestions! -Andrew

Quote: 231flyer A video scope is a much better tool to inspect the huck bolts especially the bottom row. I assume most A&Ps will have some kind of video scope in their kit. Harbor Freight sells one for a hundred bucks and useful for most applications (although too big to fit the spark plug hole to inspect valves). Also as others have indicated the paint buildup on the hinge assembly may need to be removed to properly inspect the shim (spacer plate) and hinge assembly.

Quote: pmj341 The SB "requires" this (in quotes because, at least in the US for Part 91 operators, no SB is truly mandatory), but the AD doesn't. I'm sure it would help them out, but it isn't required for AD compliance.

Quote: jetdriven About 5-7 knots TAS when LOP. Around the same in a full bore air race. The "D" engine has a single mag, so no provision for retarded impulse couplings. It actually starts easier at 25. 20 degrees is more conservative if you count cylinder pressure on takeoff. Im not sure how that correlates to cracks or wear. The enigne is certified to produce 200 HP continuous, and back-timing it to effectively de-rate it sounds ridiculous. It is less conservative, and perhaps more dangerous, when you need climb capability for a short field takeoff. Especially on a high density alritude day. Our climb rate has improved by quite a bit, perhaps 10-15%. If the engine fails on takeoff, a higher altitude gives you more margins.

Quote: nels I would think a lower air pressure in the main gear tires may help reduce gas tank leaks as it will reduce impact loads during landing. Mooney's don't have much suspension travel from what I've seen.

Quote: Magnum Here in Germany we have to install the 406 ELT. I bought a Kannad 406AF Compact for approx. US$ 900. It has a two wire remote switch available, so you don't have to install a new cable. Mooney has a service instruction (M20-116) for the Airtex installation. This includes the position for the new antenna. In my case, my avionics shop installed it under the dorsal fin. The only benefit of the 406 ELT is the indication at the remote switch when the ELT is activated.

Quote: HRM I may have mis-stated that. The vacuum in my plane is so robust that by the time vacuum bleeds off I am already out of the plane and on the ground. So, it's sort of like "Oh, there's the step". It's there when it is time to board, but it would be nice if it popped out as soon as you shut the engine down.

Quote: TurboExec What internal structural changes were there between the E or F model and the K? I know the gear could take a high load, but was anything else beefed up? They stuck 300hp on the K airframe....I would imagine you would have some amazing numbers with an E model and 300hp under there.

Quote: 67M20F I live in northern utah and was wondering if I can updat my F to a FIKI aircraft. Any downfalls other that the 5 knots listied in other posts? Will it allow me to fly in freezing fog? Clouds? What is your thinking on this?

Quote: Greg_D Sorry, not available on F models.

Quote: N207LS Has anyone had any experience? I am considering adding them to my 1968 G model. I have done some preliminary research and the cost is quite low ($1450), the plane does not suffer a loss of speed, and the slow flight handling/stall speeds are reduced significantly. Sounds like a no brainer to me. I have read Jim Kerr's analysis on his 252 (www.n252q.com), but was looking for some feedback from a vintage Mooney owner with them installed, or someone who has considered the stc for their plane. Thanks!

Quote: ajoflyer These items (ELT and Battery) are also in the rear fuselage, accessed by the big square hatch. Plus I have a flip door in front of the battery for a jump start when I haven't flown in a while...this is a 61 M20B

Quote: docket This is an often discussed issue. I have a seep in my left tank from one rivet. I never see anything on the ground but I do get a blue stain near the rivet. Right now I am not real motivated to fix because it is not a safety of flight issue but I expect that it will get worse. I have heard that Don Maxwell in Longview is the best place in Texas to go to the doctor on this but if any of you have other experiences with the repair let me know.

Quote: JimR Put me firmly in the O&N bladder camp. I have owned or operated two Mooneys (65C & 78J) since 1982. Except that they do add weight, don't believe the negative hype about bladders. People who have owned them are uniformly satisfied with them.

Each to their own. Two criteria for any Mooney I would consider....must have manual gear, and must not have bladders. Manual gear is much less maintenance than electric, saving on annual costs, and there is no acutuator to break, none of the other details that cause problems on the electric gear models. Bladders are heavy and Mooneys have limited useful load anyway. The 54 gal setup weighs 30lbs and add the extra 2 gal to carry around and now you have cut useful load by 42 lbs. The 64 gal setup is another 8-10 lbs. Bladders can and do leak. The 54 gallon setup puts 3 bladders in each wing, each with an interconnect tube, plus the fuel line connection or 4 pts that can leak. A properly sealed Mooney tank should be good for 20 years, if done by a place like Willmar or Midwest Mooney.

I think the W&B spreadsheet that Roy Epperson put together for the F model is about as full featured as anyone could want. http://www.cnrepperson.com/9791m/