Magnum

Quote: Buster1 Wow, it's really dark, half as much as the GPS sitting to the left. Is that normal?

I had problems with my oil pressure, too, no bouncing but sometimes reading too low. It was the transducer, around US$ 800. Call Mooney , they can give you a schematic for building a test plug. You can attach it to the cable of the indicator and check the reading. You just need a AMP connector and two or three resistors (approx. US$ 20) Edit: found the schematic

On the 205 the extend speeds are higher: 132 KIAS for flaps 15°, 140 KIAS for gear extend and 165 KIAS for max. gear extended speed. I don't know if they changed anything to the design to get the higher speeds, maybe it is just a certification thing. But I reduce the speed below 120 or even 110 KIAS before I lower the gear. I have the inner gear doors (attached to the wings) and the rivets were a bit loose when I bought her. I got it fixed and always try to get the speed as low as possible without cooling the engine too much (no, I don't want to start a discussion about shock cooling...).

I think it depends. How much does he charge per hour? All the shops I know (here in Germany) have a "mixed" calculation, the hourly rates are not so expensive, and they really need the 10-20% they make with the parts. Compare it to a car repair station. Not many would accept owner supplied parts, they need the margin, too. BMW for example only installs original BMW parts, and they really cost a lot. Also think about the overhead cost, every shop needs up to date manuals (a couple of thousands per year), they have to train the mechanics, need all the tools and so on BEFORE they can start writing invoices. I don't know this particular shop, maybe he is ripping you off. But as long as he doesn't drive a Porsche he might just need it to stay in business. You can decide if you want to stay with this shop in the future, right now you don't have a real choice.

IMHO the best cure for hot start problems is a Skytec Starter. After installation I checked for the correct 28V wiring because it turned the prop so fast. My procedure: Mixture full rich, fuel pump for 1 sec (to decrease vapor in the fuel lines), mixture cut off, throttle open 1 inch. Engine starts within 1-2 sec.

I usually have the trim at the upper T/O range and still need a little back pressure. As soon as the flaps are retracted the back pressure goes away for the climb. Where do you have the trim on approach for landing with full flaps? During the flare my trim setting is almost completely nose up. If your setting (indication) is not correct you'd run out of trim during the flare and still have some back pressure on the yoke. Usually I fly alone or with 1 pax. I attached the rigging procedure of the maintenance manual.

My J needs approx. 160-170 lbs. IMHO the J is bit longer, so you might need some more.

Quote: ehscott Thanks Scott. I think my original post had the GoFast/GoFar LOP backwards and I corrected it so there would be no misunderstanding. Part of his challenge is he doesn't have an engine monitor with individual cylinder data. Having said that, if he wants to operate at more than 65% power and his engine runs rough at 50 dF LOP my understanding from the course is he would be safer to operate at more than 100 dF ROP to avoid staying out of the red box. Is that correct?

I'd suggest if the engine doesn't run smooth at 60%HP LOP, I'd fly at peak EGT.

In the attached graph you can see the power loss when operating ROP / LOP. You loose approx. 3-4 % between best power (100 dF ROP) and peak EGT. When you go on the Lean side, you loose 4-5% between peak EGT and 50dF LOP. That means when the power loss is greater the more you go on the lean side.If all cylinders peak at the same time (NOT same absolute EGT), you won't have any problem operating LOP. You can lean the engine until all cylinders die at the same time. Gami measures this with the gami spread (Fuelflow difference between the first and last cylinder to peak), in this case it woul be 0. Usually you will have a higher gami spread and that means one cylinders peaks before the last one. I measure that with the EGT difference between actual EGT and peak EGT of each cylinder (don't compare the absolute EGTs between the cylinders, that is worthless). Lets say the spread between the peaks of your cylinders are 50dF (first cylinder peaks, the last to peak is still 50dF rich of its OWN peak temperature), the difference of power between these cylinders is approx. 2% while ROP, but at 4-5% LOP. So even when you fly with 60%HP, the power difference between these cylinders is still higher when operating LOP than running ROP at 100% HP. (0.6*0.05 > 1.0 * 0.02) 50dF spread is a lot for a injected engine, I assume 20-30dF is more common (without Gamis). I recommend to check the EGT differences instead of the Gami spread. Then you'll always know where your cylinders are. Even when flying ROP I set the EDM to LOP operations, I lean until ALL cylinders are LOP and then enrichen as desired. The EDM x30 shows the difference of EVERY cylinder to it's own peak temperature. To come back to your question: Just "feel" how the engine runs, in my case it depends on the throttle setting and RPM how close together the cylinders peak and sometimes LOP just doesn't feel right and I stay ROP (even at 65%HP).

Just downloaded some pics of my last flight and have the proof: The M20J makes 160kts TAS at 65% HP. The engine was leaned to 25dF ROP, approx. 2600 gross weight. Mooneys are great! FF was at 10 gal/hr, so that's 16 NMPG. Yesterday I drove 550 NM with my BMW 330d and got 20,4 NMPG, but only had a average of 81 NM/hr. So that's going twice as fast and only using 27% more fuel :-) PS: It is always fun to calculate stupid things while sitting on the ground...

Even when flying ROP I set my EDM 830 for LOP operations. I lean until all cylinders are on the lean side and then I enrich until all are on the rich side again. With the EDM 830 you see how many degrees you are below peak on ALL cylinders, so you can avoid running one at 50dF ROP. This happens easily when the leanest cylinder is at 25dF ROP (like it is instructed in the POH for best economy). So sometimes the leanest is at peak and the richest at 25 dF ROP. Lycoming states in the Lycoming Operators Manual (PN 60297-12) peak EGT as best economy when below 75% power, so I have no problem with that. I usually fly with 65% HP (that gives nice speeds and a quite low fuel burn), so I could even run at 50dF ROP. I fly LOP, too, but sometimes it just doesn't feel right. It depends on OAT and RPM settings how the engine "feels". If it is not a day for LOP I fly ROP. ROP means 1-1.5 gal/hr higher FF and around 5 kts more speed. If I want to go faster (>65% HP) I fly at least 100dF ROP (on the leanest cylinder).

I have never flown with a vernier throttle and never missed it. If I want to increase power a little I have my index finger on the panel and apply little pressure on the power lever through the heel of my hand or to reduce power I apply more pressure on the index finger. Works great even in very bumpy conditions, you just have to set the friction control right. And if I need full power I don't have to play around with the center knob. For mixture and prop I don't want to miss it for sure. Vref: Before you spent a lot of money on things you might not need afterwards, try it out for a couple of hours, if you still want it you can install it then. Before I bought my Mooney I used to fly PA28's and didn't like the push/pull controls. After 1-2 hours in the Mooney I loved them.

Quote: Vref Hi, I am Luc from Belgium, just bought a damaged M20J 1978. The aircraft sustained a nose gear collaps attempting take off from a bumpy grass runway! I am upgrading from a Taifun Motorglider as my mission profile Belgium Hungary is 600Nm with a Taifun it takes me 6,6 Hrs flying (105Kts) hope to cut the time in two with no refuel stop with a Mooney. My bird will undergo full restoration in Hungary. I hold FAA and JAR SEP/TMG PPL (600 Hrs) ratings hoping EASA will get there act together in 2012 for an achievable PPL IFR rating. The bird I bought is B-RNAV (GNC430-KX155-DME-ADF) equiped with a KFC150 A/P. Looking forward to fly that awsome aircraft soon. I appreciate the easy and good looking interface of this mooney forum. Very informative btw... greets from Belgium

The upgrade of my EDM 800 to 830 is now finished, my shop had no problems at all. I did the EDM 800 installation a couple of years ago with my brother (he is a IA), our biggest problem was the installation of the MP (we had to install a T-fitting and a new hose, there was not much space, took approx. 2-3hours). Everything else was easy. The upgrade to the EDM830 was done by just swapping out the old unit and using the existing connectors. Do you have the RPM option? JPI told me to enable RPM and MP the engine has to run when switching on the unit for the first time. Maybe your EDM thinks now it is a 830 and looks for the MP. If I were you I'd buy the RPM, MP and OAT sensors, it makes powersettings much easier (no more fiddling around with the power settings table) and you see how much power you loose when operating LOP, too. Additionally all parameters are logged and you have a cheap trend monitoring. I saved all the data since I installed the EDM, if I think something is going on I can compare the values. And if I want to sell her I can show the data to the buyer, so he knows how I treated the engine.

I finally got my Mooney back with the Apen (it is now certified in Europe) and the EDM830. I was first concerned about the readability (as it is installed on the copilots side and I have my seat in the most forward position, the viewing angle is very steep), but the screen is perfect! All the important information at a glance. IMHO a very big difference to the EDM x00 series! If you want a engine monitor, get the x30 series.

Do you have a link to this brochure? I only found the ATD-300.

The Monroy doesn't show the direction of the traffic, so you can only compare it to the Zaon MRX. I first had the MRX, it is better than noting but can't interface with a Garmin 496/696. I really like my Zaon XRX, it is not as accurate as a "real" traffic system (like a Avidyne TAS 600), but also not as expensive. Like it was said before: Sometimes it shows the traffic right were it is, sometimes it is a "bit" off (up to 90 degrees). It is no substitute for your own eyes, but alerts you to scan for traffic. I'd buy it again immediately. PS: If you want to buy a MRX or Monroy, I might choose the Monroy as it seems tougher built.

Quote: FAADAR Airplane is still outside, however Rudi Bichlxxxx asked them to put the plane in somewhere. Hope this helps Lloyd

Check out this thread: http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=1&threadid=220 It is for the M20J, might be the same for your model.

Quote: Guillaume Good afternoon, I noticed that you kept your Directional Gyro with your Aspen installation. Is it your choice or is it imposed by EASA ? By the way, if you browse the gallery you will see that there are some M20J with a 530+430 installation.

Quote: FAADAR If you wish I can get you US certified, the Aspen is a US STC and EASA sucks? I have connections to a trust and the certification I can do to issue you an FAA Airworthiness certificate. Will be in Straubing tomorrow on N800RA if you have time would love to chat Lloyd

A 430 or 530 isntallation shouldn't be a problem. Call Avionik Straubing (+49-9429-94240), they do a lot of Mooney installations, IMHO they are the best avionics shop in Europe. They just did my Aspen installation, took them 10 days. You can see the installation in my gallery. Unfortunately I am now waiting 2 months for the EASA STC, I hope to get it next week...

Quote: jlunseth ... They input the information from your POH to build the algorithm, and the POH assumes ROP leaning. So if you have an MP of 32" and an RPM of 2500 and your manual says that equals 75% HP, the unit displays 75%. But as we have just discussed, if you are LOP those throttle and RPM settings do not necessarily equal 75%, so the percent HP display likely won't be accurate in LOP mode. ...