DC_Brasil

Thanks for the answers. Just curious about the removal of the Ram Air: is it considered a minor our major alteration from a maintenance point of view?

I just had my panel upgraded to a G3X (with EIS) + G5 + GFC500 (4 servos) + GMA245R audio box (I have posted some pictures on a different topic). Budget constrained me to keep my ancient GNS430 (non-W), KX155 nav/comm2 and old transponder (no ADSB mandate in Brazil yet). I am a PP IFR-rated and had most of my flying done on piper analog planes (archers and arrows). However, my IFR was all on a C172 G1000. So the GNS430 was very familiar albeit way less capable than the G1000. Some takeaways: G3X is incredibly capable and easy to operate. If you use Garmin Pilot on the iPad, the buttonolgy is seamless. Digital EIS is a must! Being it a G3X or any other brand (JPI, for example), the ability to carefully monitor and add advisories to the engine instruments brings a whole new level of operational awareness and a higher sense of care for your engine. Also, the ability to download the data (or reviewing it in Garmin Pilot) is incredibly valuable. Those who say you don't need YD have not flown with one on a turbulent warm day with the wife complaining that she's getting sick . I was one of those guys... I am SO glad I added YD. But this is personal: I wouldn't have traded my YD for a new NAV/COMM. GFC500 is amazing. Very stable and comfortable ride even in very choppy air. Makes you kinda feel like a Boeing pilot (configure the FD as dual-cue and you can almost smell the jet fuel). G3X will not talk with old NAV/Comm, so I had to keep an old analog CDI for NAV2. Even though my GNS430 doesn't have VNAV, the G3X has a very basic Vertical Navigation calculation function and it will work with any waypoint prior to the FAF. The GFC500 will even follow the vertical profile. But it is on a waypoint-by-waypoint basis. So the "Cross 10nm before XYZ at 5000 feet" instructions is a breeze.

Hello guys! My M20J has the RAM AIR intake. Last flight, cruising at 10,000 feet I could see a 0.2'' MP increase with the Ram Air open. I believe I could only see that because of the digital G3X engine gauges. If it were an analog dial, I doubt I could have seen any difference. Since the manual doesn't have any data, I wonder if anyone here can share their experiences with the Ram Air.

I'd suggest you start by reading these (rather long) series of articles: Where Should I Run My Engine? They are rreally insightful and will change the mindset most CFIs still teach about engine management. https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-63where-should-i-run-my-engine-part-1/ https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-64where-should-i-run-my-enginepart-2-the-climb/ https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-65where-should-i-run-my-enginepart-3-cruise/ https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-66where-should-i-run-my-enginepart-4-descent/

Let me tell you my POV. I have been passionate about aviation since I was a little kid (I am 41 now). I got my PPL almost 10 years ago and basically flew the flight school planes or a rented the local club Arrow here and there. Finally I've reached a point where I could indulge my dream and started looking. Found a beautiful 1990 M20J that had the original panel. I knew what I wanted: I wanted to fly, take my family for a few expensive burgers, but wanted the most gizmos my wallet could afford. I know I'd not be compensated for the installed technology if I ever decide to sell, but I am not buying my Mooney with that intent. I want to Fly. I want to shoot IFR approaches. I want to be safe. I want to be current, modern and fun. So I spent the most I could afford (and the most that would not lead my wife to commit murder ahahahhah) and put a G3X, G5, GFC500 and a GMA245R (the GSB15 was complimentary by the shop). The plane is used and has its squawks, old GPS and NAV/COMM, very beat out interior... But last week, flying to the coast with my wife, I can definitely tell you: I am living my dream.

Can anyone share pictures of the outer and inner fuel sender installations, wiring and grounding? My R fuel sender is intermittent and I want to take a look

I did that yesterday. Specially because the Concorde website listed certain serial numbers as appropriate for the RG24-15 and/or RG24-11. FWIW, I have email Frank at Mooney some times and he has always been very fast and helpful in his responses. He sent me the information regarding that "Concorde battery retrofit". It refers to the suitability for all 24-3000+ serial numbered M20Js to use the RG24-11/15 batteries plus the need for a 1.5lbs adjustment in weight and balance if using the -15 battery, which is heavier. I ended up ordering a RG24-11M, which was more readily available and had faster shipping. It should arrive next week and I'll get a tech to help me check all grounding and make sure everything will work. The battery technician really thinks there is a high likelihood my grounding should be ok. From what he could see in the battery tests they ran, there was an internal short and it would explain the huge negative current. If the short in the battery is intermittent, the ammeter could show large swings as the current draw spikes when the short is present, just like I experienced in flight. For example, I saw currents fluctuating from +2 to -290 amps. Also, the battery overheated when they ran a charging test. If one or more battery cells are shorted, they will convert charging current to heat (that's what I was told). However, next week, when the new battery arrives, I'll run some tests. Thanks for the inputs to everyone. This forum is a life (and pocket) saver.

I'll make sure to review all of that. I just saw at the Concorde website that specific model is 12V. My plane is 24V. Now I am looking at the Concorde website that the two 24V batteries (RG24-15 and RG24-11M) are not suitable for my plane's Serial #. I have emailed Mooney and see what comes back.

Hello everyone. I had a technician test the battery and it was in very bad shape. So I guess I found the source of the problems. My battery was a Gill G-243. Can anyone help me find a list of suitable replacements? The tech advised me to get a sealed battery. However, I really don't have any knowledge about the battery and electrical systems.

I actually don't recall... will have to check that.

My first guess was a bad battery. Will check that for sure!

Would that explain the crazy ammeter readings? Sorry but I am very inexperienced with electrical circuits.

Hi Eric. I did a mag check before takeoff and in flight and it worked fine. Engine ran smoothly and EGTs responded properly to the single mag.

Let's get the collective wisdom rolling My M20J is fresh out of the avionics shop after installing a G3X panel. Last week when I flew it, the R wing fuel gauge stopped working. Well the fuel senders are old and I am contemplating a switch anyways. The very next flight, when I tried to start the engine I turned the key the plane seemed like the battery was low. I thought it was odd but maybe I spent a little too long updating the navdata with the engine off. I started it with an external source and went flying. Everything seemed normal so I took it on a 2hr XC flight. Today, flying back home I experienced the same behavior and had to use and external source to start up. Now, both COMM radios had an interference of a quick rhythmic "popping" sound. Additionally, in cruise I could see the ammeter was showing some crazy readouts, going from -30 to -290 amps!!! After I landed the ammeter showed a reasonable +2 amps. I tried turning on and off various systems and lights to see what I could find but no clue. Nothing particular happened. I suspect something is shorting the system and draining the battery. Perhaps the fuel sender line (it may have nothing to do with the electrical problem but what the hell)? Any thoughts? Here are some pictures.

Yes, that's personal but you actually get used pretty fast. The upside is that the G3X is as left as possible (and in my case, as high as possible) freeing more panel real estate for future upgrades.