bigmo

This is from Mcfarlane - and it seems PRETTY accurate (but it’s missing WI). And like mentioned above, some also tax exempt labor on aviation too. I’m fortunate as my state exempts both. It’s not trivial on big upgrades. Alabama, Connecticut, Delaware, Hawaii, Illinois, Maine, Minnesota, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Mexico, New York, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Oregon, Rhode Island, South Dakota, Vermont, West Virginia or Wyoming

Aviation parts are tax exempt in many states. Ive bought a few aviation things on eBay and as long as they’re categorized right, eBay’s tax calculation generally works correctly.

Thanks! I had a hard time locating the repair kit and scored a "new old stock" - but in the box switch. I can;t recall what revision, but it was made in the early 2000's. It was -2F this morning, so as soon as the weather breaks, we're going to get after this. The switch will go in regardless.

Yep. See if this link works, if not it’s under the downloads section.

My POH has takeoff and landing data at SL, 2.5K, 5K, and 7.5K feet. It's not super hard to extrapolate from those figures. Climb performance goes up to something like 16K if I recall.

This is a short video on Tecnam’s TDI. Ive seen a couple of these in the wild now…this isn’t a “coming soon” plane. If an uncle dies and leaves me a couple hundo, I’m a buyer! There’s no overhaul options yet, but the TBR cost is $90K which isn’t THAT bad. I think TBR is 1800, but elected to climb to 2100 soon. 130 knots on 6ish gph of Jet-A is pretty amazing. Again, I think this is a GREAT idea where markets don’t support 100LL. And, I mean, this engine is made by Continental - not Bob’s Engines.

Each plug should look a bit like a computer plug with a knurled screw on each side. I found them prone to backing out. I just loosened them, unplugged and replugged the plug. Then securely closed each screw by hand with a little extra torque by a small flat blade screwdriver. Check ALL of your connections on the engine side too (those feeding the EIS). Open, spray with contact cleaner, put a little dielectic on them and close them. I found the G3X didn’t know how to deal with little fluctuations in signal, so it would be whacky for a while and then go red-x or out of range.

The Continental is only 350 pounds and even though it's 170hp, it makes almost 400 ft/lbs of torque. I don't think I've seen a bunch of torque figures for traditional gas burners, but 400 pounds of torque seems like a lot. I'm sure it'll be a while before this takes off (pun) in the US and Europe, but in austere fuel regions - a one fuel solution with a no compromises motor would be stellar.

Ive ridden in the Tecnam P2010 with the TDI. Brilliant aircraft. Amazing that they managed certification with a wide range of engines. Fuel burn is unbelievable, and range is WAY beyond bladder range (like 12-14 hours). I don’t know the long term ownership costs of that diesel Continental, but the flying experience was A+. Ive seen a few go for sale in the 400’s. I mean, that’s out of my price range…but it’s semi “normal”.

I don’t know your setup, but do you have a GEA24 as the EIS interface? My previous a/c had twin G3X and anytime I had G3X reading anomalies, it was either a Molex connection that needed to be reseated (just crappy Molex connectors), or the connections at the GEA24 needed to be pulled out, reseated, and securely fastened. The Molex I cleaned with contact spray, then dielectric paste. For the GEA24, I just reseated them. That fixed it every time.

Yes, I can hear it buzz when in the start position (but not pushed in). When I push in, I think I still hear it, but it's hard to really know for sure...but I can still kind of hear the buzzing/rumble. But I am assuming buzzing means working - and I dont know if that's the case.

Is this hypothetical, academic, or practical? As mentioned, no requirement at all. I know 91 can take off with 0/0, but I also have had to turn back to the departure airport for a landing more than once. I try to keep that in mind when sussing out departure mins. Can I LAND here if I need to. Same logic goes for landing lights (at least to me). I've landed a few times with no landing light, but good edge lighting...sporty but doable. I've also had the light timer go off at about 100 AGL and you'd surprised how dark it gets fast. I'd not want to make a habit of that for sure. I wouldn't say I'm overly cautious, but I tend to have personal mins for departure that match my landing mins.

My F doesn’t do that unless I’m pointed down! Well done! Is it immaculate on the outside? Ive yet to buff and ceramic my F, but my last a/c gained more speed being super clean than any other $ I threw at it.

The retard points are our #1 inspection. If I have to send the mag off, I might just bight the bullet and go SureFly and be done with this. If I go that route, I can sell my SlickStart (still new in box) and won't be out a ton of money. The e-mag a/c I have flown are STUPID easy to start. Literally like starting a car. How I dream of that...

I saw that same thread - but saw several folks also say no issue. I'll be sure to photo and call B&C before ordering (if I even go that route). I'm not at all scare to go with the Skytec either.