CCAS

Agreed. The SB/SI also reference the application instructions for the 3M adhesive #847 which are pretty detailed. Once the adhesive cured, the gasket and plate made a solid bond.

Not sure the material….looked a lot like the material on the mating gasket of a regular oil filter. Lycoming Part number was 06B23072

In case it helps anyone in the future, once removed, I found the gasket was adhering to only about half of the mounting surface of the plate. After removing the old gasket I found there was almost no adhesive applied between the gasket and plate. Also the torque on the nut seemed very low. I tried to add an iPhone video but the file type doesn’t seem to work Of note, I went back through my engine logbook and found that the gasket was replaced not that long ago (2022) by what I thought was a reputable MSC in the Midwest.

Older thread here but commenting for continuity: Today I discovered an oil leak that appears to be from the oil filter adapter plate gasket mentioned in this thread; engine is a 2009 factory remanufactured IO-360-A3B6D so the AD didn't apply. Ordered a replacement gasket from Spruce ($80) and a tube of the 3M gasket adhesive called for in the Lycoming Service Instruction 1453. The SI directions and the adhesive data sheet seem to provide sufficient technical data for replacement of the gasket but thought I'd ask for any other recommendations from those who have replaced the gasket in the past. I plan to remove and clean the adapter plate tomorrow and should get replacement items on Friday. Thanks!

Dave - I upgraded the primary rocker switches to Carling V-series (Contura V) switches. You can find some additional data in one of my comments on a recent thread: My understanding was the avionics shop performed the work as a minor alteration using acceptable OEM (Mooney) data based on previous installation of parts in the Ultra aircraft. I also replaced the gear safety bypass switch and dimmer switches and installed new Go Around switch using the same justification. I can get you those switch types/part numbers too if interested. John

Possibly unrelated but a thought nonetheless: I had a similar situation on my iPad running ForeFlight not that long ago. For me, I had recently installed Garmin Pilot on the iPad when I began to notice ForeFlight’s instability regarding ADS-B “In” data. I theorized that both apps were trying to pull ADS-B data from the same device (in my case it was a Stratus 3). I uninstalled GP from my iPad and when I re-installed it, I didn’t establish a device connection to the Stratus. ForeFlight hasn’t had any issues since.

I fall in that category. I've got all my original ETA switches (28v 1989 M20J); not sure what model/voltage Mooney the OP has. Shoot me a PM if I can help.

I believe you’re correct. I gave up trying to make it work a few years ago though. Maybe next engine after overhaul!

I didn't notice in your post the results of your L Mag check other than roughness and CHT/EGT temps. When you moved the ignition switch to L initially, do you remember how much the RPM dropped and whether the drop was fairly quick or did it slowly decay during the roughness you experienced? Inflight, when you noticed the #4 EGT rise, did you note the #4 CHT (was it low or also rising)? After you leaned the engine during the ground run-up and performed the satisfactory L Mag check at 1700 RPM, what kind of RPM drop did you note and how were the CHT/EGT readings? FWIW: My IO-360A3B6D (non-GAMI) doesn't tolerate LOP so I run book ROP mixtures with acceptable temps, FF and smoothness.

That’s exactly what the MSC did at last annual to replace mine.

Carling V-Series / Contura V switches were the types used in the Ultras. See attached IPC pages for part numbers. As @jetdriven mentioned, each Carling switch requires its own (new) circuit breaker so you'll need some careful CB panel planning. It is possible in a M20J though. M20U IPC with Switch part numbers.pdf Carling V-Series_datasheet.pdf

Scott - Not sure if you have the ETA or Klixon switch types but you may try @AH-1 Cobra Pilot or @redbaron1982 to see if they can help. I still have my ETA Boost Pump complete switch removed earlier this year during my avionics upgrade....let me know if needed. John

My antenna is in about the same shape as your old one. Where did you end up sourcing your new replacement?

Complete!

Almost ready to install.

I'm halfway through my A&P program and I like sheetmetal so I decided to do a very minor owner produced part project. My 201 yoke switch covers (blanks) needed a refresh so I thought I'd just do a quick strip and repaint. Once I stripped them I wasn't happy with the condition of the old aluminum so decided to fabricate new ones. I tried .051" 2024T3 as well as .064" 2024T3 and 7075T6....I think I like the 7075 best. First photo below show the old switch covers as installed. And the other two photos compare the old stripped covers (left) to the new covers that are almost ready for paint (still need a little more hand sanding). I'll etch primer tomorrow and hopefully paint Sunday. Will post final pictures when I can.

Any chance there's an issue on the accessory case side of the equation (drive coupling bushing/retainer, magneto drive gear, idler gear assembly)? Those might manifest with intermittent results. Couple other questions mostly out of curiosity: what RPM are you starting the mag checks at? when you perform the mag check does the 150 RPM drop occur pretty rapidly or is it a slow steady decay? what kind of density altitudes are you seeing when you run the checks (do you perform the mag checks Full Rich or leaned for higher DA)?

Seems to be a good example of staggered timing. The mag with the 28 deg BTDC setting should have correlated to the spark plugs that were closest to the exhaust valves. Goal would be for that combustion event to occur slightly before the opposite set of spark plugs (firing at 26 deg BTDC) so that the two flame fronts meet at the center of the combustion chamber and produce the most effective power stroke.

It looks a bit like a brake caliper bolt but not sure how it would have ended up near your nose wheel. It may not have been from your aircraft but you might want to take a look at your left and right main wheels to see if the calipers are missing any bolts (and are safety wired). Otherwise if you still think it was deposited from your aircraft I’d remove the top and bottom cowlings and see if any of your engine accessories are missing mounting hardware.

This one worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0792L8R4T?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

That’s how I have mine installed. I thought the preferred installation was on the hat rack with power cord access through the baggage door.

While emailing back and forth with Jon at Pure Medical he advised the following: "The amps while using without the battery are 3 amps, but if you charge the battery and use the unit, you will be using 10 amps." Seems like a 10 amp CB (at least) is needed.

Totally agree. I’d worry if my GTN 650Xi and GNX 375 both fail on a given flight but I consider that outcome unlikely unless dealing with total power failure.

I elected to install a GTR 205 as my #2 radio and am happy with the choice…and the recent software upgrade offered by Garmin gives it some additional features. Price was a factor in my decision but I also didn’t think I needed another Nav source (I’ve got two panel GPS WAAS options and one land-based Nav option which I though gave me plenty of backup capability).

That's about right. I installed the new-style switch for both the gear safety bypass and TOGA. They're different part numbers but both sit 'proud' on the panel.