C.J.

@Slick Nick oooops!! Thanks Nick. That never crossed my mind.

@SilentT My Grimes coffeegrinder beacon was definitely working when I replaced it with a WAT (pka Whelen) red/white flasher. There’s a scuff mark on it, but it is not cracked $50 bucks plus shipping PayPal only.

Well yes, it definitely depends. For the record I did state "IIRC" & "plane I've flown". The only retractable singles I've flown any meaningful time in were 1974 -'77 M20C's & my '65C. So far nobody has extended the invitation to fly their T-6G or any other warbirds, but I'd happily accept if offered Everything else I flew had 2 engines and approach flaps before gear extension was the way we operated regardless of which had the higher limitation speed. I didn't keep their AFM/POH when I stopped flying them, so ... C310R, C402B, PA31-350, SA226-TC, F28 Mk 4000, B737-2/3/400, B757/767, MD-80, A319/20/21 I'm 100% single pilot now and gear down before flaps works well for me and for this plane, but that procedure might change if bought something different.

^^^^^ I agree ^^^^ but having said that, IIRC, my 1965 C is the only plane I've flown where Vlo/le was higher than Vfe. For everything I flew in my previous life, flaps to approach setting prior to gear extension was the procedure IMC or VMC.

Congrarulations. When you can, post some photos.

Sounds good, I'll go with 737. Thanks Skip.

Need to reseal my doghouse with RTV however I don't remember what I used the last time. So, which is the correct one, 732 or 737? Thanks in advance.

That's a lot of hostility for one post. Who pi$$ed in your coffee today?

My Mooney's serial number is two #s earlier than yours and had its original VOR/LOC/GS antenna & coax. Its range was way better than yours, but not as good as it should've been. A new RAMI AV-525 & coax fixed the problem. My technician was unable to pull the original coax out of the vertical stabilizer, so just put new connectors at each end and then routed new coax forward.

Runway Entrance & Stop Bar Lights currently exist & are all great, but they are no substitute for staying heads-up while taxiing and complying with a hold short clearance, confirming you're cleared across or just stopping if in doubt or utilizing the no-cost low-tech method of looking out the window left & right when crossing an active runway.

I'm in the middle of a plastic repair & restore process right now. I recommend S.E.M. products, specifically their soap, adhesion promoter & paint. My results have been great. Just follow their directions. By all means get a respirator AND goggles because the adhesion promoter & paint fumes are horrible. You'll need nitrile (or neoprene) gloves and unless you want your finger to cramp up get a "Can Gun" aerosol spray trigger from Aircraft Spruce. Paint on a calm day ideally between 70* to 85*F. It's best to apply several very light coats (up to 7 or 8 in my case). It dries very fast but wait the directed amount of time between coats. If you've never spray painted before watch a YouTube video for proper technique. It's not difficult but I practiced on an old cardboard box just 3 times until I had it perfected. Leave your finished work to cure for a day or two before handling. Most if not all odors will have dissipated by then unless the ambient temperatures have been cool. Fun Facts - S.E.M. paint is expensive but totally worth it. IIRC McFarlane sells a limited number of colors and had it for a good price. Unfortunately, not the specific color I wanted. O'Relly Auto Parts was pricey and had supply chain issues. Amazon saved the day and was by far the least expensive but be aware they don't have returns on paint due to it being HazMat. Calculate your square footage necessary and order conservatively knowing you can always order more if needed. For cracks in the plastic, I initially tried "Satellite City" instant glue, specifically their "Hot Stuff" and "Super 'T'" product. It has the viscosity of water which I found difficult to control and the results were not what I'd hoped for. I ended up using 7 Quarical Easy ABS Repair Tips for Easy Plastic Solutions which is an all-in-one pre-mixed ABS solution which proved to be outstanding. My headliner had some very bad cracks, splits & holes The ABS resin resembles tar and is applied from the back so no will ever see it. Time will tell if it holds up but I'm very optimistic. If you need more specifics just send me a DM. It'd be easier to explain it on the phone. BTW great looking Mooney. Wow!!!

Both these companies are very good. Rudy overhauled my ASI. I bought an overhauled Mid-Continent p/n 1394T100-3Z TC from Commander that they had in stock for $950. Rudy Aircraft Instruments - Overhaul Prices Commander Instruments and Avionics, Inc.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd use broker Jimmy Garrison to find an E, F or J with avionics as close as possible to what I really wanted. Upgrading avionics was a major test in patience. That said, I REALLY like what I chose for my new panel. As for a new prop, $$$$$ would depend on 2 blades versus 3, scimitar or composite. Overhauled prop governor in 10/2022 - $420 (Aircraft Accessories of Oklahoma) plus $1500 labor to remove/install. Overhauled Hartzell 2 blade prop 09/2023 - $3300 (H&H Propeller Service) plus $400 labor to remove/install. $20K seems way too low for a high-quality job. My choices were Hawk @ KZPH or Boss @ KRUQ. Boss' quote was $29,500 for everything with an overall white base coat plus 2 trim colors (no red or metallic) with a very simple paint scheme. The lead-time was 18 months & down time was 10 weeks.