phxcobraz

I never used the nav function in my old KX155 secondary. I figured it wasn’t worth going for a secondary source this time around. I don’t plan to fly hard IFR, and I have an iPad for navigation backup that does a great job.

As others have said, gear up right around 80mph, after that it gets pretty hard to do smoothly. Gear down below 120, but really closer to 110/100mph. Trying to put the gear down right at 120mph will be really difficult to get the last 6in or so into the down lock block. If you are nailing your pattern speeds of 100mph downwind, 90mph base, 75-80mph final, it's easy to be abeam your touchdown point in downwind and put down gear, going 100mph, and it's a pretty easy process, the last little bit into the lock block will the be hardest part but not too bad at that speed. Regarding the shock discs, no that won't affect it, however since you stated yours are 20yrs old, that is another thing needing replaced, if you don't already have fuel tank leaks you will soon due to the stress added to the airframe.

My goal definitely wasn't weight savings. I could probably ditch the spare tubes or the spare screw bin in the back and save more weight haha. It is nice not having the vacuum pump in the way now though, makes oil filter changes a little easier.

It for sure does, getting used to the G5s a bit still, but I did do an RNAV approach and the CDI function works great, nice to have it right along side the attitude/alt. Also nice having accurate TAS without having to do math. My plan for the right is a magnet ipad mount that a passenger can use, but otherwise clean when I am flying solo. There is a tray behind the right side holding the Trig com and CGR data boxes, so not as much room as it appears. We did leave enough room to put an autopilot control head just to the right of the 430, probably an Aerocruze or Trig(once it's released)

How much they want now? Mine was a bit worn at annual but not terrible, so I am looking for options for the future.

I ended up just lightly sanding and painted them all to match. Most of them are in great shape other than around the screw holes, so I used some interior washers in those areas to reduce more fatigue. The windshield trim has always been poorly fitting and I’m still trying to get that better against the metal backers. Currently just have some Velcro holding it in place.

Finished up and flew home the other day. Loving it!! Still a few things to finish with a cover plate on the new left yoke and some nice labels/decals. So tidy, exactly as I had in mind! The PAR200B is incredibly high quality, no alternator whine like my old KMA24. The Trig remote com also works flawless.

Probably, outside my wheelhouse but I bet my A&P can figure it out. Was hoping a rebuild kit like Lasar used to sell or bushing already available was an option and we could just swap it out. May have luck finding a salvage air box in good shape also, been looking around a bit on that.

It’s a 63C. Seems like it might be easiest to just send off to get repaired.

Got on the list at Lasar for a new intake duct today as the old one is getting pretty rough. In looking it over it’s clear the bearing for the carb heat flapper is worn out and flopping around. Does anyone have a source for an equal bearing to use? When I called Lasar today they do not offer the carb heat rebuild kit any longer, nor the bearing. Looks like McFarlane doesn’t offer one either. The flapper itself seems in pretty good condition and the heat on/off work but there is definitely some unfiltered air getting in.

I repainted all the interior plastics as well, and cleaned up the sidepanels, re-glued/stapled peeling leather, looks much nicer. Need to get an order into Hide House one of these days and take the seats over to the shop to get recovered. But I want the plane back for some flying this summer, then will get to it this fall probably. They are fine for now.

All the things are in. Mechanic is finishing up some last wiring and hopefully can start up soon. Went with 2xG5s and a PAR200B audio panel with a remote com to clean up space. Left some space to do an autopilot soon and probably will swap the 430W with an IFD440 eventually. Passenger ptt will be a button on the panel rather than a janky ptt wrap on the yoke. Stoked to have the CGRs in front of me and not all the way on the right side. How it looked before

Coming up on 2yrs on my reaseal from WeepNoMore and 0 leaks have come up. Also Paul is great to work with, accommodating, and the price isn't out of this world(think I paid $6600 in 2023 for my M20C). It was worth flying it from AZ to MN to have done.

Had to reinstall this when we put a new throttle in last year. It's kind of a pain to adjust but very simple in design, it's just keyed off a position of the throttle. I got it set correctly after about 2 test flights.

Yep center section was easy to take out. Thx @N201MKTurbo

Renewed back in January with Avemco. 1963 M20C 1mil liability $65k hull $2250/yr 450TT, 350 retract(in Mooney), PPL/IR

I thought about rivnuts too, we would probably have to drill the holes out larger the fit in a rivnut.

I will have to look, I can't say I saw the rivets holding it in at either end, but they could just be painted over, that might be the easiest and cleanest way to do it.

Plane is in getting some new avionics done right now and we are a bit miffed as to how to best replace the back 2 nut plates(closest to windshield in center) for the center cover section. They have been broken for some time and we had previously just put some nuts on the bottom, with a normal machine screw in place. This makes it pretty difficult to disassemble and reassemble, takes 2 people usually. Anyone had success with options here? See image below

I got a basically brand new one for my C from a salvage yard, had McFarlane tags on it. McFarlane does have most part numbers they can make a cable for, but when I talked to them they said safest bet is to just send yours in and they will duplicate.

Nice! I heard an ELT go off for a long time while I was north of the airport taking photos of an ultra-marathon on Black Canyon trail. Same thing? Yea I’m in for annual next month and we can chase the wiring/connectors. @Robert Hicks is doing some G5s, PAR200B, and a new panel, so we’re going to have it pulled apart anyway. The oil leak seems like it’s either the oil filter(challenger with new oring), filter adapter gasket, a mag, or prop governor as they are all in that area.

Pretty sure the sensor is bad. It was all over the place taxing after startup. Totally stable at normal numbers during runup and then in flight. Been trying to chase a small oil leak lately and wondering if maybe the sensor is at fault or near something that is. Have drips down the firewall and nose gear. https://imgur.com/a/znJuCN9

If you have OAT the 530 can also calculate TAS on the performance page. that’s certainly faster than my C by about 10kt+. It’s probably rigged very well and colder OAT.

Yea I could’t find a good description in the IPC either. mine is a different handle type, I suspect was replaced at some point. Didn’t take a pic but it’s basically a handle on a ball, with a hollow pin going through it to hold it on.

Trying to remove the handle on my manual step for my 63 M20C to replace some interior panels and the trim plate around it. I was assuming it was just a set screw but it seems like maybe a hollow roll pin. can anyone confirm before I start beating on it with a punch?