BillyT0020

Yeah I ended up dropping the exhaust, and the lower cowl to replace with the new style Lycoming Valve. Now its easily removable if I need to clean the new one.

Happy to help! Let me know that your box made it safe. Billy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome, great work!

Have a lot of extra parts taking up space. Everything was working when removed, being sold as is. You can pay however you prefer; happy to verify. Buyer pays the ride. ACK A-30 Mod 9 Altitude Encoder $125 Includes new wire harness, tray, and instructions. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3m86dtsxbj3p3ok653qsh/IMG_9263.HEIC?rlkey=mwm5znv649emcvk6f77riaczh&st=mj6dkka2&dl=0 Bendix Ignition Harness IO-360-A1A (Slick) $100 SOLD https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/9ikkp5rn313yz7uw3lnce/IMG_9264.HEIC?rlkey=xjljhepl5owk8v8vpbouu52d6&st=k68v6rf9&dl=0 Directional Gyro missing knob $50 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/bfrz3a6sy0q9o81ii7bha/IMG_9265.HEIC?rlkey=esuuvsv8r7zmvieg7kfvxqo7u&st=c2a8o0k2&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/a4itgghzhncwhq1ks0zx7/IMG_9266.HEIC?rlkey=lmxviod77020j9qf376a0cykg&st=h6s1uf8h&dl=0 Landing Light Mounting Ring $25 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/fezx5yyyklv4nrlj0rwis/IMG_9267.HEIC?rlkey=wvkn34dvodow3f3lcuetlator&st=d18euujv&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rcpp5eh092lmj08c9kgb3/IMG_9268.HEIC?rlkey=kqwsk3fxvhao00zg43hsqydmq&st=rakm35w6&dl=0 Narco Transponder/DME Antenna with backplate $25 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7noo8g8uqtzny2ouz8l51/IMG_9269.HEIC?rlkey=ekinqv97jbm1odeb5ewu0ookc&st=uemlwx8b&dl=0 Vacuum Filter (barely used) and Bracket $15 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/4vpjap5de9j2zhbuoxwz9/IMG_9270.HEIC?rlkey=pi4gvd1hm0l0vr5aap5qhyqt6&st=944u1a5h&dl=0 Suction gauge missing plastic cover $20 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8frj1syvaaa2lazdy48f2/IMG_9271.HEIC?rlkey=4nkrhfnlkxqe2w3ntzm9vn366&st=n0fisz5q&dl=0 SkyTec 149 NL Starter, less then 200 hrs $750 SOLD https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/96qtl6z6q2djjkbj32hyy/IMG_9272.HEIC?rlkey=snsge3s43tsunrdvf0ofdghp8&st=u5ef3nwo&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/yhyzbndkujo4hy3nnvvvy/IMG_9273.HEIC?rlkey=usb4fas6qqbgksldedcgr3d45&st=j3p20rkv&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/99mcoienscjhuov4yy5tu/IMG_9274.HEIC?rlkey=kwvm4hkakfkd0moeeednl5x2u&st=3tkb1c45&dl=0 Aero Lites Fusion 46LR LED Landing Light $100 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/wfj3ghspstwvcl0cutva1/IMG_9275.HEIC?rlkey=5s7fim0t2uyznv3vib7uj8ne3&st=1b7pxmea&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/iyo7e9o7qx93vl1bm5fhn/IMG_9276.HEIC?rlkey=2wyfu916o1r2sl6komjyd0x1o&st=afwx6tmw&dl=0 Rapco 215CC Vacuum Pump $100 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/tid5tw9739uzgv9u560up/IMG_9277.HEIC?rlkey=zeoxsbpchxmj93vm1nz1o7uhu&st=xmp235t1&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2xvel0ob0zsgie3vytuky/IMG_9278.HEIC?rlkey=lesde4ajwy15hdmi2k1jrqrby&st=ghuytqki&dl=0 Lamar S12 12v Starter Solenoid $45 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/voqljnm7ha6rssbm2ghl6/IMG_9279.HEIC?rlkey=s8bpewve90bl33yrf0pp514it&st=na4fx3tt&dl=0 Gear Retraction Bell Crank E/F/J Mooney P/N 950095 951 $50 SOLD https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/p8jxgj25a2qsz8hg8yfty/IMG_9281.HEIC?rlkey=j0eo4pdfiyho5cmlzya81i426&st=drvbi68v&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/fghal4ctth6vfiyzqfpux/IMG_9280.HEIC?rlkey=ehw0iji5tv1tnzpace2jdma5a&st=2n3ibgjr&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/il2vhi4cyxs1zrii2b1ao/IMG_9282.HEIC?rlkey=g45dzgmxywxd6x5pxrov6q84w&st=6cbzmaov&dl=0 Lower Cowl/Firewall Braces L & R $200 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/xikc1cuodztx2ykqxe30i/IMG_9283.HEIC?rlkey=808zixi71v8d09y4xygi9mbsr&st=sny1mkka&dl=0 Zeftroics G1500N Generator Controller x2 $200 #1 SOLD https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/mi1tpf5r5ds6xv5v63bb1/IMG_9285.HEIC?rlkey=jdsq59fnv3hci0fl6g5u3bown&st=380kw1ln&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1biz5mk5gk3u2h378smvx/IMG_9284.HEIC?rlkey=wcju7ijfqzje93hhqq8esrwtp&st=zn8a0wjk&dl=0 #2 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gm90h57u6d7mzb4kvk666/IMG_9304.HEIC?rlkey=f49nobs1h5pw65qkhhbrpolq9&st=syap08as&dl=0 Delco 50A Generator w/bracket $100 SOLD https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/db6y4eish7afengk3p353/IMG_9286.HEIC?rlkey=39n2t9iu39br4nho2a83l09bl&st=smikyf6q&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rfd42ve3d1g6qmpwj5ldx/IMG_9287.HEIC?rlkey=zqb7wn03kd2t68ixyf8okim6k&st=xn9aryw3&dl=0 Cowl Flaps E/F $200 will need a little straightening before paint https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/wz70o8plex6nfgknvbsh7/IMG_9289.HEIC?rlkey=pgdexz8nadii83sxwh6nlg2hi&st=bmwh2zh2&dl=0 Brittain TC100EVT PC Turn Coordinator w/sensor $250 SOLD https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/qymwje9eamm49ckppewfy/IMG_9291.HEIC?rlkey=3nqool3ofslsg74kqsjxft9ij&st=h7jug6qb&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/absphbpwpjzbq0rftlu2o/IMG_9292.HEIC?rlkey=n491cwluh3mj27vfokdh6u4wz&st=qjz5io28&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/cqegbhd5bui7m6opte8ua/IMG_9293.HEIC?rlkey=u3u4ge5sisdh514k9kmluvwaf&st=gkvckhww&dl=0 Plane Plastics Door Trim- New will need a couple spots straightened out with a heat gun before painting. $50 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/zdg2oy1hs2jbkumea0woq/IMG_9294.HEIC?rlkey=nwox20bg9t61xnuj0cwg8hjap&st=w7pifpsx&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6sk6lrm08qbxkdcamwqa3/IMG_9295.HEIC?rlkey=xlmj2cairjk3p8p427kjruo7p&st=mx15xarm&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/eb6xdjjt2t1kpoowd81jm/IMG_9297.HEIC?rlkey=p7ppnzfx4xctgi83tdqhge07h&st=iolpmn5o&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/mqmoq1upi5ebsm1p3xgy5/IMG_9298.HEIC?rlkey=9qp35pjz0riojsp0oiavkcwqq&st=g0g8mop3&dl=0 Exhaust to firewall mounting bracket, will need new rubber. $250 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8ngd3jj10dupspck6nr7b/IMG_9299.HEIC?rlkey=horb14s564l43yt38din28qws&st=875zw18m&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/nlf7d50waymqob3131npe/IMG_9300.HEIC?rlkey=6h6rl4lybhh9i87m012cdutg7&st=a3t929jw&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/70o6uor6da9ewfiotgvkw/IMG_9301.HEIC?rlkey=eae0gub3bb0i7gj84o5t6hz6m&st=f5w8arn0&dl=0 Oxegen Port or Power Access Panel $40 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1p4zfx9ssefren5dehixg/IMG_9302.HEIC?rlkey=704u38q8iys4j2h56sjqbwlut&st=yeu02i7g&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hx5w811nvmckjnwtzddwz/IMG_9303.HEIC?rlkey=ekyggmsw9br29ins4pwlicpxd&st=bief586a&dl=0 Delco Generator Voltage Regulator with overvoltage $25 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/j8eexiezjdrglvsfkodpx/IMG_9305.HEIC?rlkey=ncx6g7lb2atze7hn3nrhr7us0&st=gbfhp7wv&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/99p2u9su66gmg1n7exr3n/IMG_9306.HEIC?rlkey=kldmcqv9eov1qk1upa3lr92sb&st=886g5z1p&dl=0 Belly Strobe $20 SOLD https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/nvwbp723t00ji1z8t5zju/IMG_9307.HEIC?rlkey=034qp3ioqnqwdzz4gao6j242g&st=8esgk97r&dl=0

Finally got the new style sniffle valve installed on my 67F. For those of you fighting a rough idle which is solved by spraying cleaner/lubricant into Mooney’s modified AN fitting sniffle valve, the Lycoming version is a big improvement. If you’re lucky and yours is not smoked into the sump, you should be able to remove yours by removing the side cowlings and displacing the exhaust. Loosen the passenger side (1 &3) exhaust nuts, leaving them on the studs, then completely removing the pilot side (2&4) nuts and washers which will allow the muffler fall down to the lower cowl. You should now have enough room to spin the old sniffle valve off the sump with a 7/16th wrench, after you remove the rubber fuel hose and 9/16th AN aluminum “extension” line. As is becoming par for the course for my Mooney, I was not so lucky and had the drop the lower cowl, and then remove the entire exhaust in order to get the leverage to break the old sniffle valve free. Fortunately I am becoming pretty good at doing this by myself, so wasn't that big of a deal. To install the new valve you will need 2 different 1/8” NPT fittings, one 90 degree male/female elbow, and one 45 male/female elbow. You will need to attach the 90 to the 45 before threading both of them into the sump as one assembly in order to have them clear the bottom of the sump. I put an o-ring and thread sealant on the male end of the 90 where it threads into the sump for good measure. Next you re-install and torque all the exhaust nuts to make sure you will clear the cut out in the exhaust shroud. From here you can thread the new sniffle valve into the female end of the 45 with a 3/4” hollow socket or stubby wrench. A nice benefit of this set up is you can now remove the new sniffle valve without having to displace the exhaust, or in my case drop the lower cowl, so you can clean it in the ultrasonic cleaner as needed. You will also need a larger size fuel hose to fit the new valve, I just stopped at the National Aviation Parts Association on the way to the plane and had them size it for me. The new larger fuel hose is now too big for the metal drain on the lower cowl, but fortunately the old hose OD is a perfect fit for the ID of the new hose, so I just pushed a small piece of the old hose about an inch inside the cowl end of the new hose for a nice snug fit. Reattach the hose clamps and grab a drink. Pics below, hope this helps save someone some time. Billy

The ONLY way thats a 12 hour job is if his mechanic is in a union. 2 hours is definitely possibly if its not your first time dropping the lower cowl. I literally just did it 6 weeks ago AOG away from my home field. It took longer to find someone on the field that had tin snips to cut the baffles than anything else.

Yup still have both the boost cable and oil cooler on lower cowl. I changed the Landing light to an LED so its just two small screws to unhook. J cowl is way easier tho, wish the F was like that.

My mechanic and I swapped a Delco Remy to a Skytec 149 NL outside on the ramp AOG in Tucson in ~ 2 hours (Bendix bushing blew up). We had limited tools and had to drop the lower cowl. No way I’m buying its an 8 hour job inside a shop with everything available.

Does anyone have a trick to remove the sniffle valve w/o displacing the exhaust or dropping the lower cowl? I’m on version 3.0 of a long right angle 7/16th wrench I welded up but it’s proving difficult to get it just right with having to take it home to make changes. Next attempt I might try spinning a nut on the flare side to break torque on from the other end (rear of engine). TIA Billy

Not true but the only person whose opinion counts is the person signing the book.

I’d check the back of the Bendix Switch, there is an AD and replacement repair kit available for less than $100. You can try polishing the contacts and adding new grease, but I would probably just replace it if I went to the effort of taking it out. The repair kit part number is 10-357515

Of course it’s ultimately up to your IA but you shouldn’t need an STC to swap in a 201 baggage door, it’s just a newer stock Mooney part. They might want a 337 but could just be a log book entry.

Is your step down on the low flight picture?

What do you want for the engine? I’m looking for a project to rebuild over time. Billy

Not sure if you’re still dealing with this issue but I FINALLY got my brake system after working on it for days, albeit a single sided system . I replaced the Master Cylinders, one of the hard lines coming of the MC (flare snapped off during install and had to run 4’ of 1/4” OD new aluminum to the next union), pads, rotors, rebuilt the calipers, checked all AN fittings, and blew air through all the lines. After ALL thats I couldn’t get them to bleed. I tried all the normal methods, bottom up, pumping brakes while opening the bleeder valve and filling the reservoir, tapping lines with screwdriver, lifting the nose etc. The only thing that worked is capping off the vent with a caliper bleeder valve, filling up the reservoir, them pressurizing the fill hole with 80 psi of air. Luckily a normal tire air valve threads into the reservoir and the caliper bleeder valve works perfect to relieve the pressure after you’re done. Without capping the vent with the bleeder valve, the air couldn’t push the bubbles out of the system for me. Pic of the final set up that did the trick for anyone else struggling to get the air out of the system. Wish I would have tried it sooner, literally was done in 10 seconds after I hooked up the air. Billy

Reach out to Paul at https://www.3dstickandrudder.com He can make any emblem coated in resin so they won’t fade. I actually just sent him the trim rings from my yokes, he scanned them, 3D printed a better than original design, and had them back to me in a week. Highly recommend.

You could easily hire a Welder to attach a steel plate to the structural frame without damage to the aluminum skins, then get your IA to sign off on a 337. I would use MIG but TIG would also be fine. Its about a 5 min job, prob less then $50 bucks for both sides, although you may pay a fee for a mobile welder to travel to your hanger.

I just removed the shoulder harnesses from my plane for this reason. Have had the inertia style shoulder harnesses get stuck on me too many times, prefer just the lap belt anyway.

You can fix your plastics and paint them yourself for relatively cheap with nice results. Finding new ones (Plane Plastics, Jaeger etc) can get pretty pricey. Luckily its fiberglass and easily repairable and with new paint can come out looking really nice. If you wanted to wrap in ultra leather you can have them taken to any interior shop, just make sure the material meets the 12 second burn certificate requirements. I would stay away from the band aid fixes you will see online (aluminum tape etc) and fix it the right way with fiberglass chop strand/poly resin, then use body filler on the front side and smooth them out for a strong unnoticeable repair that will last in the Texas heat. For the headliner I retrofitted a newer model’s Headliner to fit my 67. Heres a few pics of the fiberglass repairs on the back side of the headliner, what it looks like painted compared to the original. I maybe have $500 into repairing and repainting the entire interior within a few weeks time. The panels in my plane were custom made out of aluminum and required a lot of body work to get them straight since the welder was kinda sloppy, which took the longest to get straight, but you wouldnt run into that.

I am just missing that side. I was able to buy a single piece co-pilot side with a bunch of other interior parts and need the pilot side so they match. My plane came with individual trim pieces for each of the back windows, the single is much cleaner. I fixed the pieces I reused/retro with Fiberglass Chop Mat and poly resin on the back, then filler on the front. A lot of my pieces had been previously fixed with the aluminum tape method but that didn't seem to hold up great and was especially worried about them in Phoenix temps.

Its on the list, but I have already fell into the “while were in there” trap for an amount I’d care not to admit. So its a project for the future at this point. Plus I have have rear J panels with single window trim attached ready to go for when that happens. It’s always something….

Good idea, I thought their interior was a little different from stock trim so it may not match, but may be the worth the call. Thanks!

I will check with them again but the last rep I was working with quit replying to my emails around OSH and has been radio silence since. Those pieces above look to be J windows, I still need the center divider in the F/G but hopefully they have it.

Checked with him first, dont think he has one

Hey Guys, Looking for the one piece pilot side rear window trim from a F/G (like picture below) If anyone has one please let me know. All the best, Billy