BillyT0020

F Model but same airframe with the battery in the tail. I’ll have a look at the red wire location, can’t remember if we wired it to the battery directly or thru the solenoid. Thanks for the suggestion. Billy

I have your electric step and it works well. If I could make one change it would be the ability to keep it always stored in the up position. I have it wired to a switch on the panel, but when power is cut via the master, it defaults down. Anyway to achieve this via wiring schematic? Billy

Sorry this is sold. Ill try to update this later. Apologies Billy

Yup, still have it!

Always good to confirm it’s not the generator or something else in the system. If you do end up needing the Zeftronics regulator, I spoke with my friend yesterday and he decided to convert to an alternator, so I can get that one I had back if you want. Just let me know. Billy

Im sorry I do not, buddy just took it last week.

I would definitely use the one with the screen, just make sure it’s oriented correctly. Last time I had my governor off I found a ton of tiny metal shavings from the cylinders/rings breaking in after a TOH. I was impressed with its filtering capabilities. Billy

I love GEU, I will probably always stay there. It’s gotten a little more busy lately with the new LSA time building school, but no where near as bad as GYR with Aviate. DVT is also not my favorite airport, I always get beat up in the pattern there with the wind coming off the mountains but it may be a little closer to you from Sun City. Billy

On my intake boot there is a square metal spacer between the bolts and intake boot that the head of the bolts sit on, same on the servo side. If you're talking about the bolts spinning the rubber between the spacer and the cowl, they would so the same thing on the servo side. Billy

Interesting, I may try that next time. I thought the servo side was safety wired, but I usually remove the cowl side so could be wrong. I increased the length of the bolts in the 4 corners, which makes getting the cowl side lined up a breeze. Billy

Id also be suspect of the Lasar “overhaul”. I know at-least 2 people that got bad pumps from them recently. Billy

The cable slides thru the hole in the AN bolt, and is wedged between the washers holding it in place. The safety wire you see goes thru the roll pin on the other side of the shaft bracket to keep it from coming out in flight. Here are a few pics of that style mechanism. I’ve had had my lower cowl off more times than I can count, the boost door cable is always the hardest part, especially on install, but the more you do it the easier it gets. I’m up to Nascar pit crew speeds now, and can now get it on and off by myself pretty quick. Sometimes when I’m bored and have nothing to do on the plane, I drop the lower cowl for fun. j/k If you can manage to find the over center boost door arm, it’s a much nicer mechanism, and pushes the cable attachment back 3-4 inches, which aids in its removal. Here’s a few pics of that as well with the part number. You will need to drop the lower cowl, pull the roll pin on the shaft arm, and trim off the arm where the adel clamps mount the cable sheath, and then it will bolt right in. Billy

Before I pulled the governor for overhaul I would take a look at the cable attachments, both ends, as cable could be slipping in its sheath. There should be double adel clamps on the governor bracket, make sure they are nice and tight. Just a thought. Billy

Ill take it. PM Sent. Billy

I have the exhaust hangar, will DM pics. Billy

Had good luck setting them in place, then rotating the whole shroud with light taps on a flathead screwdriver on up against the protruding part on the outside of the shroud.

I had the same issue with AV-30’s. I bought a new unit on barnstormers but had been sitting in a box for 2 years so the battery was at 0% and would not charge in the panel. The seller made it right and paid for a new $200 battery but I decided to see if I could figure out a workaround with the old one. Turns out if you take them out of the unit you can charge them on a rechargeable battery charger and they will return to normal when reinstalled. No reason to think the g’5’s wouldn’t work the same. Billy

Yeah I ended up dropping the exhaust, and the lower cowl to replace with the new style Lycoming Valve. Now its easily removable if I need to clean the new one.

Happy to help! Let me know that your box made it safe. Billy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome, great work!

Have a lot of extra parts taking up space. Everything was working when removed, being sold as is. You can pay however you prefer; happy to verify. Buyer pays the ride. Landing Light Mounting Ring $25 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/fezx5yyyklv4nrlj0rwis/IMG_9267.HEIC?rlkey=wvkn34dvodow3f3lcuetlator&st=d18euujv&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rcpp5eh092lmj08c9kgb3/IMG_9268.HEIC?rlkey=kqwsk3fxvhao00zg43hsqydmq&st=rakm35w6&dl=0 Narco Transponder/DME Antenna with backplate $25 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7noo8g8uqtzny2ouz8l51/IMG_9269.HEIC?rlkey=ekinqv97jbm1odeb5ewu0ookc&st=uemlwx8b&dl=0 Vacuum Filter (barely used) and Bracket $15 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/4vpjap5de9j2zhbuoxwz9/IMG_9270.HEIC?rlkey=pi4gvd1hm0l0vr5aap5qhyqt6&st=944u1a5h&dl=0 Lower Cowl/Firewall Braces L & R $200 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/xikc1cuodztx2ykqxe30i/IMG_9283.HEIC?rlkey=808zixi71v8d09y4xygi9mbsr&st=sny1mkka&dl=0 Cowl Flaps E/F $200 will need a little straightening before paint https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/wz70o8plex6nfgknvbsh7/IMG_9289.HEIC?rlkey=pgdexz8nadii83sxwh6nlg2hi&st=bmwh2zh2&dl=0

Finally got the new style sniffle valve installed on my 67F. For those of you fighting a rough idle which is solved by spraying cleaner/lubricant into Mooney’s modified AN fitting sniffle valve, the Lycoming version is a big improvement. If you’re lucky and yours is not smoked into the sump, you should be able to remove yours by removing the side cowlings and displacing the exhaust. Loosen the passenger side (1 &3) exhaust nuts, leaving them on the studs, then completely removing the pilot side (2&4) nuts and washers which will allow the muffler fall down to the lower cowl. You should now have enough room to spin the old sniffle valve off the sump with a 7/16th wrench, after you remove the rubber fuel hose and 9/16th AN aluminum “extension” line. As is becoming par for the course for my Mooney, I was not so lucky and had the drop the lower cowl, and then remove the entire exhaust in order to get the leverage to break the old sniffle valve free. Fortunately I am becoming pretty good at doing this by myself, so wasn't that big of a deal. To install the new valve you will need 2 different 1/8” NPT fittings, one 90 degree male/female elbow, and one 45 male/female elbow. You will need to attach the 90 to the 45 before threading both of them into the sump as one assembly in order to have them clear the bottom of the sump. I put an o-ring and thread sealant on the male end of the 90 where it threads into the sump for good measure. Next you re-install and torque all the exhaust nuts to make sure you will clear the cut out in the exhaust shroud. From here you can thread the new sniffle valve into the female end of the 45 with a 3/4” hollow socket or stubby wrench. A nice benefit of this set up is you can now remove the new sniffle valve without having to displace the exhaust, or in my case drop the lower cowl, so you can clean it in the ultrasonic cleaner as needed. You will also need a larger size fuel hose to fit the new valve, I just stopped at the National Aviation Parts Association on the way to the plane and had them size it for me. The new larger fuel hose is now too big for the metal drain on the lower cowl, but fortunately the old hose OD is a perfect fit for the ID of the new hose, so I just pushed a small piece of the old hose about an inch inside the cowl end of the new hose for a nice snug fit. Reattach the hose clamps and grab a drink. Pics below, hope this helps save someone some time. Billy

The ONLY way thats a 12 hour job is if his mechanic is in a union. 2 hours is definitely possibly if its not your first time dropping the lower cowl. I literally just did it 6 weeks ago AOG away from my home field. It took longer to find someone on the field that had tin snips to cut the baffles than anything else.

Yup still have both the boost cable and oil cooler on lower cowl. I changed the Landing light to an LED so its just two small screws to unhook. J cowl is way easier tho, wish the F was like that.

My mechanic and I swapped a Delco Remy to a Skytec 149 NL outside on the ramp AOG in Tucson in ~ 2 hours (Bendix bushing blew up). We had limited tools and had to drop the lower cowl. No way I’m buying its an 8 hour job inside a shop with everything available.