gevertex

I don't mind getting people in trouble when they deserve it, but I am also not confident it would be taken seriously / anything done about it. I have reported things before, major issues that were clearly workmanship problems and no action taken.

In this case the engine is fresh out of an IRAN to new tolerances. So it’s unlikely the cause. Long story short, I had the governor replaced with a new one and the problem is gone. Longer story is I had the governor sent back to the shop that overhauled it (H&H). They initially agreed to IRAN / bench test it under warranty. After looking it over and replacing a bunch of parts, they decided the work would not be covered under warranty, and to bill me for the work (the warranty had expired calendar time, but not hours). I reluctantly paid as I wanted the governor back in hopefully working order. After it arrived at my mechanics shop, they discovered the bracket was installed backwards. No big deal. But when they went to remove it to turn it around they found several of the screw holes completely stripped and screws held in by only loctite. Bad news bears. I am super lucky that was discovered. I called them / told them what I thought of the work and received a refund. I then spent several AMU on a new governor.

Agree, you need an instructor. I notice my landings are worse after just a few weeks of not flying. Also, you are in the most risky phase of your ownership with a fresh engine and the lowest proficiency having not flown for 8 months. Get an instructor and if the worst happens, you have someone very proficient to coach you or fly for you. If everything turns out well, then it's just a safety check and you may get a few pointers.

In the J, the climb checklist in the POH instructs us to decrease RPM to 2600 shortly after takeoff. I usually do this upon reaching 1000 ft AGL. Boost pump comes off at the same time.

H&H agreed to swap my governor out, no charge. So hopefully that takes care of this... they were not able to find anything with the bench test.

Oil pressure is decreasing as it heats up on the climb. MAP is decreasing as altitude increases. I am not changing mixture, throttle, or propeller controls during this time.

Very nice! Going to be buying 2x the late model lenses this year. Mine are due.

I don't see any variation in my oil pressure or MAP when this happens. Blue is oil pressure. Red is MAP. When this happens I am climbing at roughly best rate. This does not happen in cruise, except when I enrich the fuel mixture after lean finding.

The bar is where the drop occurred. What am I looking for? I could check other instances of this happening. It's really quick, I'd be surprised if MAP is fast enough to catch it.

So oddly, they were not able to reproduce this on their test bench. They did replace the speeder spring just in case. Not sure where to go from here.

I ended up sending out the governor for inspection. Lets see what they say. H&H Propeller (triad) did the overhaul, they can bench test it as well.

Can definitely hear it. I felt it the last time it happened as well. The sky was extremely smooth that day.

Correct, green line. Here are the numbers for reference. This is enough to hear a pitch change and sometimes feel a change in power. Also this only happens at high RPM. Once I reduce to 2400 for cruise, I have never noticed a change (except when leaning).

I'll get a drill bit and probe the probe to see if there is any blockage. I had understood this was checked already, but I agree the data does look like 1 or more ports are blocked.

Yes, two holes in the bottom of the pitot tube that measure air pressure.

Hey all, A couple years back I had my panel redone (G3X touch), and a Garmin AOA installed. For the life of me I can't get it to work properly. I've been back to the shop a few times, followed their instructions to the letter. Once calibrated, on the next climb from ground level, the AOA will slowly indicate a higher and higher AOA until I get a stall warning alert. It never displays on landing, even though I get much slower on landing than in climb. In the images, you'll notice that the AOA indication increases while the speed stays relatively constant. I would expect AOA to be relatively the same for the same speed with maybe some small changes due to altitude. Any ideas?

Hey all, I've noticed some RPM surges on initial climb recently. Roughly 50 RPM change indicated accompanied by a brief change in engine pitch. My governor was overhauled just a couple years ago. Savvy said no signs of other issues like misfires, etc. Wanted to see what the hive mind thought.

I had my dual mag overhauled by Quality Aircraft Accessories in 2023. It seems to be working well. Including a new harness and R&R total was in the $3600 range.

I was looking forward to G100 personally, but that's pretty damming stuff. Paint stripping is concerning enough, but o-ring swelling? That's bad news bears and reeks of the cheap transmission repair stuff you can buy at autozone. Is the 8 octane difference between 92 mogas and 100 octane needed for our engines really so complicated that we need to basically put paint stripper in our tanks?

Lots of cigarette lighter devices support 12-24 volts. I had been using this for a time before I got my panel redone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GH3612F?psc=1 Didn't have any issues with it.

This is what I have been using. But it does get a little bit in the way of the fuel hose as I drag it to the opposite wing. Using the tow down moves the ground under the wing. I’ll try that next time.

Hey all, I wanted to share my engine pre-heat solution with everyone. I use one of those diesel heaters many others use, and I typically hook this up to my car via the 12v port in the center console. However, recently a deer hit my wife while she was driving (her words ), and we are down one car. As a good husband, I let her drive mine anytime she needs it. As a result, I have been taking an Uber to the airport to fly in the mornings lately. So I needed a 12v source for my heater. I have seen many use smaller motorcycle or generator sized 12v batteries, but I don't have an easy way to charge one of those. I do have 18v and 40v Ryobi batteries that I use for my tools / yard equipment, and chargers for those batteries. To fix this, I bought a buck converter and a battery adapter (it's basically a breakout for the battery's power pins) to step down the 40v battery to 12v. I tried it this morning and it works really well. I still need to terminate it properly, but now I have a 12v source I can use for anything that is powered by the 5 or so 40v batteries I have laying around. I bet you could do the same thing with 18v tool batteries to step them down to 12v. Depending on the voltage range of the heater it might just accept the 18v battery with no step down. Links Breakout: https://www.amazon.com/Laimiao-Adapter-Terminal-Convertor-Robotics/dp/B0CDGQWJ7B Buck Converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756T983Q

I'll tuck them away safely. IT does look like there are some alternatives out there: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/bogert30M-MO.php

Good to know, thanks. I would have thought jack points are threaded. These have smooth shafts. They spin perfectly like tops :D.

They came with the plane, but haven't found a use for them yet. They look like tops, but maybe they are something else? Any ideas?