gevertex

Lots of cigarette lighter devices support 12-24 volts. I had been using this for a time before I got my panel redone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GH3612F?psc=1 Didn't have any issues with it.

This is what I have been using. But it does get a little bit in the way of the fuel hose as I drag it to the opposite wing. Using the tow down moves the ground under the wing. I’ll try that next time.

Hey all, I wanted to share my engine pre-heat solution with everyone. I use one of those diesel heaters many others use, and I typically hook this up to my car via the 12v port in the center console. However, recently a deer hit my wife while she was driving (her words ), and we are down one car. As a good husband, I let her drive mine anytime she needs it. As a result, I have been taking an Uber to the airport to fly in the mornings lately. So I needed a 12v source for my heater. I have seen many use smaller motorcycle or generator sized 12v batteries, but I don't have an easy way to charge one of those. I do have 18v and 40v Ryobi batteries that I use for my tools / yard equipment, and chargers for those batteries. To fix this, I bought a buck converter and a battery adapter (it's basically a breakout for the battery's power pins) to step down the 40v battery to 12v. I tried it this morning and it works really well. I still need to terminate it properly, but now I have a 12v source I can use for anything that is powered by the 5 or so 40v batteries I have laying around. I bet you could do the same thing with 18v tool batteries to step them down to 12v. Depending on the voltage range of the heater it might just accept the 18v battery with no step down. Links Breakout: https://www.amazon.com/Laimiao-Adapter-Terminal-Convertor-Robotics/dp/B0CDGQWJ7B Buck Converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756T983Q

I'll tuck them away safely. IT does look like there are some alternatives out there: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/bogert30M-MO.php

Good to know, thanks. I would have thought jack points are threaded. These have smooth shafts. They spin perfectly like tops :D.

They came with the plane, but haven't found a use for them yet. They look like tops, but maybe they are something else? Any ideas?

One note, it does look like #3 has a bad EGT sensor. It is fluctuating periodically. Going to get that looked at soon.

The engine is back on again and I got her back today! Excited to do some flying! She's purring like a kitten. Of course there are a few squawks, but nothing major. Break-in is essentially complete.

This is exactly my stance. I am sure it would increase the ride quality a little and help with other tasks, but that benefit probably doesn't outweigh the operational complexity of needing to manage it.

Last I did the GAMI spread mine was split on cylinder 3, but I expect that will be better once I get it back. How do you use lean find, after the big pull? I imagine something like BMP, let the EGTs settle, enable lean find, richen to peak then lean back to 25/50LOP?

This is what I was taught, but I never understood why. Thanks for the explanation!

So far I have just followed my POH and run 100ROP using lean finder over ~60 seconds. As altitude changes (in descent or cruise climbs with the same power setting), I change the mixture to maintain that 100ROP setting as altitude changes. But... I have been reading more about LOP operations and I have some questions. Does changing the throttle setting really not change the mixture at all with constant speed props? The throttle controls a baffle in the intake letting more or less air in, right? Does the fuel servo have some coupling to the throttle? If not there would have to be a mixture change with more or less air for the same fuel. I have seen some advocate finding the right mixture at a safe lower power setting then power up once the mixture is set, so this is why I am asking. I have also seen some advocate for not finding peak EGT, rather doing a big mixture pull quickly to LOP and using "suitable" fuel flow values. How can you know what numbers are suitable? Is this a matter of identifying a combination of RPM, manifold pressure, fuel flow, and keeping them all the same over altitude changes? Does that hold over all other conditions (temperature, altitude, etc)? So far, I have used lean finder mode to find the peak EGT then richen to 100ROP. I know all of this has been discussed to death, but wanting to learn about some of the finer points.

What do you get with the GTN?

Currently waiting for the inspector to get back with me.

People need to call the FAA FSDO about Jewell. On my overhaul they failed to spot face the cylinder mounting flange under the bolt holes. This left excessive paint and caused my engine to start to come apart due to insufficient torque on the mounting bolts when the paint started to loosen from the cylinder. I would not be surprised if the same happened here. Someone should check for it. In addition, my case was heavily fretted. It’s likely it was fretted prior to the overhaul given the level fretting, they saw it and didn’t do anything about it putting me at risk for case failure down the line.

I think there is some distinction in quality between any 3rd party shop and Jewell. In fact, savvy has been reporting fewer defects from 3rd party shops than Lycoming recently.

+1 to this. I used headlight lens restorer on mine and it got 80% of the yellowing out.

Is there a cost difference? IIRC you need a sync wire for synchronized. Maybe for wigwag too?

Anything you remove goes toward your useful load. So yeah, I’d remove all the things you do not need.

Perhaps they are out of business, not sure. I was able to get him on the phone after the website went down.

I'll go ahead and share Jewell's initial response to my calls / email. I felt it was pretty defensive. They apparently went through my post history on Mooneyspace and because I talked about ground leaning, accused me of taking off with less than full mixture resulting in detonation. I have never taken off with anything other than a properly set mixture. I did share the report from the IRAN with them, radio silence. The IRAN did not find any evidence of detonation. They are not going to voluntarily take responsibility for this. I have called a lawyer already. It was also disappointing that the items covered in their overhaul were basically just the minimum legal requirements. To get an engine that would last for the next 2000 hours and 20 years or more, I had to have extensive additional work done. George Sapp IO360A3B6D Response.pdf

I'll check the probe if this persists after the engine reinstall. This started happening directly before the failed studs were discovered so no other diagnosis has been done.

Those are interesting points. I have no idea what then could have caused #3 to lean so much cooler. Looking specifically at the delta EGT on #3 in the attached picture.

Jewell Aviation in Kennet, MO. Not to be confused with the other Jewell who as I understand it does good work.

Some of you may be wondering what lead to the problems I had. Root cause was identified as excess paint applied to the cylinder flange causing stud failure. I am told putting paint on the cylinder flange near the mounting holes is a huge no-no. These are supposed to be spot faced. https://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?do=main.textpost&id=676BF248-5697-4319-801A-905F7388929C In addition, the shop found the crank case had significant fretting, missing studs, and over-stressed through bolts. The shop believed the fretting was severe enough to have been present prior to the overhaul done by Jewell. Lastly, the cylinders I was sold were not overhauled very well. They had significant corrosion on the exhaust studs and clearly hadn't had much or any rework done on them. Certainly not what I expected when I paid for them... There were a handful of other issues as well, but these were minor in comparison.