CL605

The install took time but it wasn't complicated. I bought the side panels from Jaeger Aviation in Wisconsin (I forgot to include the cost for those, and frankly I don't recall). I cleaned and reused the backing for the accent panels and put new foam and fabric on them. The exterior of the plane is white, black and silver and I wanted the interior to somewhat match.

The foam was not glued to the fabric. I stripped off the old fabric and foam, cleaned and painted the frames (where they were exposed) then glued the foam on. I was working alone so getting the covers in place was a chore. Airtex has pretty good instructions and videos.

Yes. It took longer than I wanted but I am happy with the results.

I didn't have the budget for custom leather, so I went with Airtex. I haven't installed the headsets yet, but I'm happy with the seats. The covers came with new foam, and all in it was just over $2000. I also spent $800 on carpet and $1000 on almost new plastics and probably $200 more on paint, glue, etc. There are certainly much nicer interiors, but I'm pretty certain this is better than what the factory supplied.

What he said. Even if the spar is OK the cost to return this aircraft to a safe flying status is likely to be eye watering. You might get lucky, but the odds are against you.

I previously had a Sundowner to teach my kids to fly. It used the same style rubber donuts as the Mooney. Beech wanted $5000 for a full set. Before sourcing them from South Africa for $800 for the set I tried wintergreen oil. It definitely helped the old donuts. They regained elasticity and swelled up to almost new size. I just replaced the donuts on my J and I’m tempted to give them an occasional coating of wintergreen oil. It works.

I've not had experience with the engine in question, but I have run a pair of it's big brothers (TSIO 520) to 1000 hours beyond TBO (2400+ hours on FRM with a 1400 TBO). I also bought a Super Viking with 2080 hours TT airframe and engine (IO 520D) that had some valve wobble, so I had all 6 cylinders topped. I later sold the plane and the new owner just passed 2800 TSOH. The engine was installed in 1973 (non-VAR crank) and has never been off the airframe. Admittedly this is anecdotal, but my conviction is that heat is the largest contributor to engine wear. I aim for 380 CHT as a max on Continentals, which is not easy in south Florida temps, but the engines all seem to "live long and prosper" when kept cool(er). YMMV BTW, when topping the Viking engine we discovered a badly broken compression ring. The compression test was still normal. Go figure.

If it is the speed switch, pressing the override button should allow it to still retract.

First, thanks for all who post helpful material on this forum, especially diagnostic ideas. You saved me a lot of time (and probably money as well) with a landing gear problem. Yesterday I flew from my home field to work, about 25 nm. All was normal. On the return flight, the gear only came up part way. No breaker popped, and rather than try to get it to retract for the short flight, I put the gear lever down and thankfully had a green light in a second or so. On the jacks, I could not get the gear to retract no matter what I tried, so off with the belly panels. Per the suggestions on this thread, I focused on the 2 relays first. They appeared normal, almost new, and they had power to them when the gear handle was up. I then went to the "up" limit switch. There are 4 wires going to the switch, but only 3 have the terminals visible. When I went to check whether there was power to any of the terminals, simply touching one with the probe (with the ground not yet established) energized the motor. Strange. I ended up removing the switch, and sure enough, the one terminal I could not see had a loose screw. Touching the other terminal apparently moved things just enough for contact to be reestablished. I cleaned everything, reattached the 4 terminals, and everything works as it should. Once again, thanks to those who are willing to share their expertise. It is much appreciated.

Hi Parker, Working with your company was a pleasure, and my curiosity is genuine. Airnav shows FA44 as 3600'x150'. In reality it is 4380' long for takeoff, 3600' for landing, and 200' wide. It is lit, and in great shape. Is it merely the fact that it is grass that is hurting me? I've based Vikings, Barons, Twin Commanders, a Sundowner and a Cessna 401 out of FA44 without noticing a bump in rates. Again, I trust you gave me the best rate available, I'm just curious why it is affected by the aircraft base. Thank you in advance for any insight you can offer.

Turning 70 shortly. 22,800 TT, 20,000 complex retract, 48 in the M20J, 45 of that in the last 12 months, aircraft is hangared. Recurrent training twice a year for a Challenger 605, 1st class medical, excellent health. $115,000 hull, 1 million liability, 100k per pax was just under $3000 through Parker's company. I'm not complaining, and I trust that is a good deal in this market, but I will note that is the most I've ever paid for a single engine retract. The idea that a chain smoking, pot bellied 40 year old with 10% of the experience might get a better rate is... interesting. And out of anyone's control. No one promised us life would be fair.

The descent rate was close to double the max, which means the load was close to 4x max. I’ve been in both a 757 and a A321 where, for unknown reasons, the PF did not flare. At all. It was ugly, some O2 masks dropped on the 75, but no damage was found. That was with about 600-700 fpm. In those cases, it no doubt helped that both mains made contact at the same time Procedures are relatively easy to teach. Airmanship, not so much.

1100 fpm is very hard, but it seems likely that the side load from the 7 degree right bank, combined with a 3g impact, over stressed the MLG side brace and caused the collapse.

https://avherald.com/h?article=52439b47&opt=0

I know many on this board have gone through scenarios like this dozens of times in full motion simulators. Hopefully they will chime in. FWIW, the technique I have been taught year after year is as follows: 1. Fly the approach with your hand on the yoke and your feet on the rudders. The pitch and roll described in the original post didn't happen without discernible movement from one or more primary flight control surfaces. 2. At the first sign of the AP not doing what it should be doing, disconnect it. 3. If you have both uncommanded roll and nose low attitude, correct the roll issue first, then pitch and power as you approach wings level. 4. If you are nose high, correct pitch and power first, then correct any roll issues as you approach level flight. The autopilot is your best friend... right up until it is not.

The right gear obviously collapsed and I suspect we will know why fairly soon. It certainly was a very hard landing with no discernible flair. I once watched a light twin try to flair while approaching near a stall. Full up elevator did result in some increase in pitch, but the stall resulted in an increase in an already high descent rate. It hit so hard it bent the wing and dug both props into the dirt. Shortest stopping distance I've ever seen in a light twin. Whether the CRJ exceeded structural limits or whether there were other factors remains to be seen. Vince Neil's Lear had prior damage to the left main and that may have contributed to that gear failing on landing in Scottsdale. Also, when the right gear of the CRJ collapsed the aircraft not only rolled but also would have pitched up a few degrees, supported by the nose gear and left main. The increased lift from the one remaining wing would have caused the subsequent rollover. Like many have expressed, great respect is due the flight attendants. That was professionalism in action.

I’ve been told by a reliable source that aluminum loses 1/2 its strength at about 400. That is my personal limit, and I’ve run every engine I’ve owned well past TBO. It may just be coincidence.

I have a 1977 J with the dual mag setup, and I know the JPI 830 needs to be set up as an 8 cylinder engine in order to display the correct RPM. I have read everything I can find on how to do this, and I have gotten as far as the setup display that asks "7,8,9 cyl" followed by a Y or N. I cannot find how to select 8 cyl. JPI is closed for the holiday and I am getting the annual signed off tomorrow and would like to fly if possible. Anyone remember how to program 8 cylinders into the 830? Keep it simple, I'm not that smart.

Thanks for the info, I'll post when I get a chance to do a bit more diagnostics..

Thanks, that is helpful. Am I correct in thinking that it is a normally open switch and it closes with airspeed, completing a circuit to operate the gear?

It has the airspeed safety switch. I assume that replaces the squat switch? And even with the throttle at idle, no warning horn.

I'm restoring a 1977 M20J that I have never flown. While conducting a gear retraction, I expected to have to depress the bypass switch to get the gear to come up. I also expected to hear the warning horn until the switch was depressed. Instead it came up immediately and without sounding the horn. I'm guessing that the airspeed safety switch is a normally open circuit, as well as the bypass switch? If that is the case, then if either switch is failed closed, will that allow the gear to operate without the horn sounding? Thanks in advance for any help!

I started in general aviation, then became a CFI, then corporate (King Air 200) then I was hired at a major. 29 years later I retired as an Airbus captain. Now I fly corporate/135 on a Challenger 605. I miss the airline and have to consciously avoid thinking about it too much or I forget how lucky I am to still be flying jets. For me, airline flying was awesome and paid for an airport home and several aircraft over the years. Whatever investment you make, it pays off many times over. The people who "tolerate" it are (in my experience) not really aviation people. If you don't love aviation, find something else to do. If you do love it, then go for it and hopefully you will end up at an airline. That said, corporate flying jobs still pay well and and many find it a satisfying career. Best of luck to your nephew!

FWIW, a few years back I went through the OPP process for the rubber gear donuts on a Beech Sundowner. Beech can supply them, but they are 3rd party products (Lord mfg?) and the wait time and cost are prohibitive. Beech was about $5000 for a set, the alternative was around $500. A company in South Africa produced the parts, and to keep it above board per FAA each order required that the purchaser sign off on a set of drawings saying "yes, please make me this part per these drawings." And we all placed separate orders and paid separately. I sold the Sundowner 3 years ago (to buy a 201J) but to my knowledge none of the club members have had any troubles with the parts or the FAA. If the gears become available at a somewhat reasonable price, put me down for a set, OPP or otherwise.

Thanks for the quick relies. New screws are on order.