Fritz1

EGT around 1480, CHT up to 390

TIT comes in around 1580 dF, probes can burn up at higher temps, check contacts of probe for corrosion in a first step if TIT does not look right

Bravo Owners, I have 2000 with a 650h factory reman engine, all numbers look good, feels good, runs well. I am 62 years old and probably do not need another airplane with more engines and more switches. A couple of weeks ago I thought about putting a cylinder on the shelf just in case I need one since they are readily available again. Then the G100UL came to my mind and I figured better see what happens. I remember the transition to unleaded premium car fuel in Europe around 88/89. Some engines needed valve seats, some did not, some engines had detonation problems, some did not. So I have a hunch the Bravo engine might need something. In Oshkosh I talked to Lycoming. The said they were working on "detonation mitigating measures" which sounded encouraging. Therefore: 1.) Anybody any idea how the Bravo engine might perform with 100UL, what are the chances of detonation at takeoff power, at cruise power 2300 rpm 30" 100df rich on 1st cyl to peak? 2.) What are the chances that the Bravo engine will need cylinders or valve seats, if cylinders what would they look like, what performance is to be expected? 3.) How much additive might the Bravo engine need in the G100UL in case things do not work out with the existing cylinders, to my best understanding TEL and scavenger come in at about 10 oz for a 100 gal tank 100LL, maybe use half of that in the G100UL to calm the Bravo engine down? How well does that stuff mix? This may all be 3 years down the road but it is coming, so better prepare for it. Fritz

Great analysis, very little to add besides one thing: rather few FBOs carry the fluid and whoever you remember having it may have just run out so call ahead and always carry at least a one gal jug in the trunk, 2.5 gal is better, TKS fluid cannot be shipped air so getting it overnight is not an option, needs to travel ground, stopped in Juneau four years ago, no joy, next stop Fairbanks, no joy, had two jugs shipped ground from Anchorage, go figure, FBOs are concerned about the fluid sitting around and expiring which really is not an issue, lasts at least one year

I have had my Bravo for 4 years and had a G-model before that. The Bravo shines when it is about out climbing icing and on legs over 500 NM especially with tailwind cruising between 16,000 ft and FL210 somewhere between 180 and 190 KT TAS burning about 18.5 gph. Overall it is a "point design", airframe squeezed into a corner and to the limit. With full tanks the FIKI Bravo it is a two person airplane at best, back seats are out in mine, saves about 30lb. However if mountains are in your way and icing is in the forecast the Acclaim is the only piston that will match or exceed the Bravo in performance and utility. The Bravo requires overall 1-2 hours of maintenance per year for every hour the prop turns presuming 100-150h/yr not counting any upgrades. Brian Kendrick in TX did the pre purchase on mine and we evaluated a total of 10 Bravos in various depth. Brian does every 2nd annual and otherwise supports the aircraft remotely. Having somebody on call that knows every minute detail of the aircraft in addition to local talent I consider crucial for safe, reliable and enjoyable operations.

I bought one for myself two years ago and I like it, bought another one for my wife just recently. I found that it works well for me when I run it 4000 ft over actual altitude during climb and keep it 2000 ft above in cruise. I use precise flight boom cannulas with phone ear bud pieces put over the nozzles, gives you more yield. I inhale through the nose and exhale through my mouth. The X3 reduces oxygen use by about 70%. I have a full size oxygen tank in my hangar on a big old cart. When that tank goes down to 1000 PSI I replace it. With a 115 cuft tank in the airplane I typically do a flight out to Montana from the east coast and back without buying any oxygen as long as I leave home with at least 1000 PSI.

no, typically 35.5 - 36.5 depending on temp, Brian Kendrick set my wastegate and test flew the aircraft thereafter, I would like to see a tad more on hot days but could not make up my mind yet to crank up the density controller, I think these density controllers have intermittent friction and are not that exact, I installed a TIT gauge to monitor the function of the density controller, and set it according to the linear diagram in the service manual, bottom line my density controller is probably set too low, however at a takeoff in Bozeman MT, about 4 weeks ago I climbed out at 37.5" at 70F 5000 ft elevation which was a tad much, bottom line those density controllers are not that exact, mine has 600h, can't make up my mind to have it overhauled, probably will work the same thereafter

intercooler is kicking in, density controller may be be a tad sticky, waste gate may be a tad sticky, lube the waste gate shaft, see what that does, put the mouse milk in a small cup and apply with small paint brush to top and bottom end of waste gate shaft

With the runway long enough I twist the throttle in, takes let's say 4-5 seconds, then full manifold pressure becomes available, accelerating to Vy the intercooler starts working and MP may increase a bit more depending how well the density controller works, putting mouse milk onto the waste gate shaft with a small brush at every oil change keeps the waste gate from sticking

clip.pdfkinda like that, groove is in peg already, whoever designed it may have thought that last winding of coil snaps into groove

Dave, I took the contraption to NAPA and they found a clip, forgot what size. Brian Kendrick liked the idea, he actually wound a perfect coil on the the old wire while in the airplane using needle nose pliers, I have no clue how he did it, we lubed the cable with Triflow and put everything back together. Make sure that the oxygen valve on the bottle really cuts off, otherwise you can loose oxygen. Winding the coil takes some practice, use a screwdriver or a drill slightly smaller than the peg and put it into a vise together with one wire end, then start winding and pull hard. 0.050 piano wire from McMaster works quite well, Mooney uses the same. Done this way the oxygen cable will never come off again. My local shop screwed it up during the prior annual about a year and a half ago, their coil looked about like your first attempt and came off in no time. Nobody could believe that there was no clip, pain is the price and experience is the reward. -Fritz

Dave, your coil looks pretty good now, it has to be wound tight enough so it snaps onto the peg, the peg has a little groove that can hold a small retaining clip, cut the coil short enough with Dremel disk so retaining clip goes on. Figured this one out together with Brian Kendrick when he did my annual in January, has been working like a charm ever since. -Fritz