TheAv8r

Not always. It is automatic based on MAP/RPM and Fuel Flow and what has been entered into the configuration. I would compare it against the POH, go to an altitude specified in the POH like 7500ft (checking against density altitude to ensure that's the altitude the engine is really at). Set a 75% power setting, then see what the G3X reads-out.

Oh man, that's a highly debated question . I'd recommend starting with the Lycoming O-360 Operators Manual, it's about as comprehensive as you can get as to the operation of the engine. Running the engine at > 75% power all the time is a recipe for not hitting TBO FWIW. As far as the relationship between peak EGT, power setting, and where to avoid both detonation margins and get the most life out of your engine, check out this article: https://www.savvyaviation.com/red-box-red-fin/ . The TLDR is: above 75% power, run full rich (this is also what Lycoming who made the engine recommends...). At 75% power, don't go leaner than 150deg ROP. At 65% power, you can basically run the mixture wherever you want. Some nuances to that, but that's a good rule of thumb to get started. What I would recommend is to find a Mooney CFI in your area and go on a XC flight with them, they can teach you engine management techniques for your airplane in different phases of flight and help answer these questions specific to your equipment.

@OGBPilot That's a great looking Mooney! Who did the paint job?

When I teach transition students, I teach this flow: Before Takeoff, left-to-right: Fuel pump on Landing light on Fuel on the fullest tank Cowl flaps open Mixture full rich Prop full Gear area clear Flaps set I have them physically run their hand from the johnson bar down to the floor and then look to confirm nothing is there. It's kept me out of trouble!

https://www.trade-a-plane.com/search?category_level1=Single+Engine+Piston&make=MOONEY&model=M20J+201&listing_id=2446769&s-type=aircraft Just to share another example of why an E in the mid-$100k range isn't unreasonable, here is a $215K M20J with a low-time engine, nice interior, nice panel. An E at $160k with all the J-mods equipped comparably is a $55k savings, and if you never needed space in the rear seats, you win.

This is great advice!! Mooneys are precision airplanes and they respect precision flying, in exchange, you'll have a very capable rocket ship that handles like a sports car. As a CFI who does Mooney transition training, that learning curve feels a little tough in the beginning for new private pilots, but once you start it starts to click, you can't wipe the grin off your face . It'll feel like drinking from the fire hose again, but take your time with your CFI and enjoy the ride.

Well-put! This was exactly my point, but put better .

You literally just had someone in this thread who spent $140k on an F . An F is a slower E.

Hey Greg, you're nearby so let me know if you ever want to talk Es! I'm at SGR. Probably biased as I have an E that I have painstakingly restored and modernized and would argue is one of the nicest out there . I don't think the J should be that much of a price-step up from an E, unless you really need that extra space, a modded E is basically the same performance wise and is more nimble and crisp to fly, in my opinion. Maybe 5% more between the 2. Johnson Bar gear is its own value IMO. There have been a few E's in the last 12 months that have sold for $160k range. The J comparison isn't truly fair unless you're looking at apples to apples, a J and an E with the same panel, engine times, interior, condition, etc. Usually when I see that state, the J is more expensive even when an E is in the mid-100s. Here's a $140k J with good avionics and low-time engine but poor interior: https://www.trade-a-plane.com/search?category_level1=Single+Engine+Piston&make=MOONEY&model=M20J+201&listing_id=2443724&s-type=aircraft Here's a $165k J with good avionics and low time engine and decent interior: https://www.trade-a-plane.com/search?category_level1=Single+Engine+Piston&make=MOONEY&model=M20J+201&listing_id=2445319&s-type=aircraft Here's a $158k J with good avionics, mid-time engine and decent interor: https://www.trade-a-plane.com/search?category_level1=Single+Engine+Piston&make=MOONEY&model=M20J+201&listing_id=2446564&s-type=aircraft So what I would take away from that is if you have an E with good avionics, low-time engine and good interior, you're looking at $150s-160k, benchmarking against the $165 and $158k. If one of those goes down (e.g. good avionics, decent interior, mid-time engine, etc.) then $140ks seem to be reasonable. I don't see any E on the market that has low-time engine + good avionics + good interior, I have a '65 M20E with 170hrs on a freshly overhauled engine done by a well-known engine shop with a freshly overhauled prop, brand new non-AD hub, all new accessories (firewall-forward was done at the overhaul), SureFly e-mag, GAMI injectors, fine-wire plugs, new alternator, new voltage regulator, new battery. New panel, Garmin G5s, GMA345, STEC 30 AP, 430W completely overhauled by Garmin, JPI 930 engine monitor with CIES Fuel Senders, all new switches, wiring, circuit breakers, custom cut flat, one-piece panel. I have a brand new full Executive interior done by AeroComfort that included all new soundproofing, inertial reel seatbelts, custom stitching pattern, with every piece of the interior being redone. The entire electrical system is new. The plane has all LED lights, bladders, the electric step mod, one-piece windshield, gets flown 125+ hours a year and is meticulously maintained. When I had it valued after all the work was done to figure out what I needed to insure it for, it was north of $170k. That's obviously not me getting my money back .

I think this changes depending on if you have electric gear vs. manual gear and hydraulic flaps. The manual gear is very very hard to get up if you're fast, and slowly retracting the hydraulic flaps can be tricky, so on a go-around what I teach is go full power, establish a positive rate of climb, get the gear up first, pitch for Vy and climb-out, then incrementally get the flaps up.

Around 6hrs / 1 qt. The engine is leak-free, that was the first thing we checked . I emailed Mooney and they sent the original drawing for the breather, here it is for reference. Mine is certainly the right shape, though it's hard to determine how far out into the airflow it's supposed to stick, I followed up with Mooney to ask.

Never more than 6.

The whistle hole is above the cowl exit. The vent is S-shaped, with the top part curving forward and the bottom part curving aft, it extends beyond the firewall a good few inches. Here’s a pic, ignore the zip tied hose, that’s for something else we were doing. Yes, there is a dribble of oil from the vent after flight, and the inside of the vent is wet with clean oil.

Reviving this thread. My '65 M20E with 165hrs SMOH has an oily nose-gear door and left-side of the belly, we suspect from the breather. The cylinder compressions are all perfect, literally 80/80 on every cylinder. The oil remains clean and doesn't darken quickly and everything looks healthy on the borescope, so seems very unlikely to be cylinder blow-by. We suspect it could be the position of the breather tube that is causing a bit of a vacuum to pull oil out. Bob's post referenced in this post no longer has pictures in it, and I cannot find anything on Mooney or Lycoming sites explaining how it should be installed. For those who tackled this in this thread - any pics, documentation? Did anyone get the exact dimensions from Mooney?

Also have a 65E, honestly, the takeoff trim position has never "felt good" in my plane, so I trimmed it to my own visual setting where it flies off the runway better. It will go full up/full down though. You can always back this up by looking out at the elevators, the elevator should be level with the tail in the takeoff position.