TheAv8r

Around 6hrs / 1 qt. The engine is leak-free, that was the first thing we checked . I emailed Mooney and they sent the original drawing for the breather, here it is for reference. Mine is certainly the right shape, though it's hard to determine how far out into the airflow it's supposed to stick, I followed up with Mooney to ask.

Never more than 6.

The whistle hole is above the cowl exit. The vent is S-shaped, with the top part curving forward and the bottom part curving aft, it extends beyond the firewall a good few inches. Here’s a pic, ignore the zip tied hose, that’s for something else we were doing. Yes, there is a dribble of oil from the vent after flight, and the inside of the vent is wet with clean oil.

Reviving this thread. My '65 M20E with 165hrs SMOH has an oily nose-gear door and left-side of the belly, we suspect from the breather. The cylinder compressions are all perfect, literally 80/80 on every cylinder. The oil remains clean and doesn't darken quickly and everything looks healthy on the borescope, so seems very unlikely to be cylinder blow-by. We suspect it could be the position of the breather tube that is causing a bit of a vacuum to pull oil out. Bob's post referenced in this post no longer has pictures in it, and I cannot find anything on Mooney or Lycoming sites explaining how it should be installed. For those who tackled this in this thread - any pics, documentation? Did anyone get the exact dimensions from Mooney?

Also have a 65E, honestly, the takeoff trim position has never "felt good" in my plane, so I trimmed it to my own visual setting where it flies off the runway better. It will go full up/full down though. You can always back this up by looking out at the elevators, the elevator should be level with the tail in the takeoff position.

I have one that's in pretty good shape and it worked fine in my plane before we replaced it with the electric step, but I do think there is a tear in the boot. It wasn't enough to cause it not to work, but it's there. Let me know if you're interested.

FWIW I have ruled out Mooneys that did not have bladders because I didn't want to mess with wet wings. It was absolutely a deciding factor for me purchasing my M20E.

^ Follow this plus your engine shop's break-in instructions. Most of the time their warranties are built on those instructions, if you don't follow them, they may not warranty your engine because of how critical the break-in period is. On my M20E, my break-in flight was 1hr flight time, we circled over the airport at 3000ft for an hour, did our best to minimize ground time (towered field so some of it is what it is) and then tookoff at full power, left it full up to 3000 monitoring CHTs, let it run full for a bit then pulled it back to 80% power or so and let it run there for an hour. After an hour, we gently took it down, keeping the power in, only going to idle when we were in the flare over the runway.

Here's mine on my M20E. RAM Ball Mount + Arm + Cradle, iPad Mini mounted horizontally (landscape).

What's your airspeed when you try to put the gear up? If you're above 80kts, it is difficult and gets more difficult each knot adds to it. 70-80kts, it should be pretty easy. Next flight, try a Vx climb out (70kts) and try putting it up then. I usually put it up almost immediately after takeoff (positive climb assured of course) and have no issues.

+1 for Hector at AeroComfort. He did my yokes and my full interior, his craftsmanship, attention to detail, and communication were fantastic. You can mail the yokes to him for him to wrap and return.

Hey Flyler, I know an A&P IA nearby who's very familiar with Mooneys (he's owned 3), but he does it on the side so I'd need to check and see if he'd be willing to do it, you'd likely need to relocate the aircraft to him. You can also try BK Aircraft at KAXH, Brian Isbell, the shop owner, has worked on my Mooney and a good amount of others and knows his stuff.

Keep flying it. 1qt/6hrs is normal, if it's not making metal, you have no indications of a problem.

There was a lot of work done at the same time, so it was down for 3.5 months all-in-all. The one piece panel all-in for parts and labor was $3600. I was going to have to have new panels done regardless, to cut new panels, powdercoat and install it was $2200, so $1400 delta to greatly improve the look and flow.

I have a 65E and redid my panel to a flush, 1-piece panel which I highly recommend, it really cleans things up and modernizes the panel. I have dual G5s, but there were no issues with the instruments changing to not have the left side jutting out.