M20 Ogler

My engine minimum idle is at 750 rpm. In order to get the 50 rpm rise the O-360 manual calls for when pulling the mixture out I had to back the mixture adjust screw out 4 turns. But now my WOT static rpm is only 2650 when full rich. I have to lean with the mixture knob to get 2700. 4 turns seems like a lot to me. What is usually required?

I read somewhere not to run a carbureted engine lean of peak because the uneven distribution of fuel to each cylinder in the lean of peak region causes the cylinders to generate uneven power therefore put uneven stress on the crankshaft, idk how accurate that is. I like leaning to best power, because didn’t buy Mooney to go slow

Are these fuel tubes 3/8”? Looks like I need to order a B nut. A&P has flare tool already

I wonder if since the rest of this line is in good condition if it’s acceptable practice to use a splice in the affected area.

Yeah I’m sure, my A&P also noticed the blue dye indicating fuel is starting to seep. So him and I need to figure out a repair

Durability is not the issue. It eventually corrodes aluminium where ever it contacts it.

That black ductwork is terrible, every one should replace it with orange skeet IMO. I can see some blue dye starting to seep where this is occurring too.

Yes that’s it

My current stall horn is located behind the instrument panel attitude indicator bolted to the firewall. Confirmed by putting my ohm meter in series with it to chassis ground and then closed the stall switch on the wing. edit: I used the audio continuity test setting on my ohm meter and put it in place of the stall horn in the circuit to test the stall switch.

The turn and bank needle is always centered even when I’m a bank. Today While trouble shooting the stall horn I noticed the cannon plug on the back was only screwed on by one thread. So I tightened it up all the way but it still makes no sound when I turn the master on. Plane is grounded until I hang my air box so no flight testing Yet

I envy the owners of experimental aircraft. Just throw a 12volt piezoelectric buzzer in there that you can get off Amazon for $10

Turns out I am able to get my arm in there and reached the stall switch. I just needed to have more pain tolerance. the good news is my stall switch works just fine no need to remove it. I was able to put my fluke across the leads at the horn with the meter set to beep for continuity to ground. And I could message in morse code with the stall switch. I also have voltage at the horn with master on amd stall switch closed so the bad news is I was wrong about the horn working fine if it gets voltage. do I need a new horn?

Stall horn works if it gets voltage but volts are not making it there. I’d like to take the switch out of the wing but the screws and backing nuts just spin and there is no way to get my arms in the inspection panel far enough to back up the nut w a wrench. Kinda stumped here. I can look w my cheapy iPhone endoscope but that it

If I’m reading the drawing correctly the hot air dump valve is closed when the carb heat is on. Then it’s open when carb heat is off. Why is a dump valve needed?

Removed two old unused antenna plus the cables going to them but have holes there now. How would you patch them?

The interior in my C is pretty rough I wonder if this could fit.

As if I didn’t have enough work to do caring for a vintage Mooney. I was presented with an opportunity/bargain to good to pass up on an essentially untouched RV-14 tail kit plus what seems like almost all the tools in Cleaveland’s catalog and a couple months prepaid for the hangar/workshop it’s in. A guy at my field decided building was not for him and would rather spend his resources flying. Wife said go for it. I hope to fly the Mooney while I spend the next several years (5 to 10 I think) building the RV. Feels like I may have jumped in the ocean with no swimming lessons. Anyone here done something like this?

I must have removed about 5 or 10 pounds worth. Took maybe half hour, idk why avionics shops would be so lazy considering how expensive they are. I wonder how much useful load I’ll gain by switching the generator to alternator then eventually removing the vacuum system some day.

Thanks. The guys at Lasar said it could work but would be a huge PITA. I think I can make my original one work if the welder can fix the 2 cracks and Then we’ll use the rebuild kit 600063-900

Ordered the rebuild kit through Lasar. It’s not cheap. Aircraft Parts Store has two carb air boxes “as removed” I asked for pictures. My current box has a hairline crack. Maybe a good welder can help.

I think this part from Lasar might work if I’m reading the page correctly. I’m confused why it has a 20 where it says “compatible M20c SN 20-0001 and up” my serial is a 4 digit number. also the carb heat mechanism looks much different

The box has some cracking that maybe can be welded. I think I should definitely replace my valve assembly and plate bearing that rivet onto the sides of the box. I’ve not gotten a response from lasar. I sent an email to Mooney earlier today. what have others here done when dealing with this part?

I just heard back from Power Flow. They said the SAL12-70 is compatible with their exhaust system.

Has anyone here installed this on their C? Or know if it works with the Powerflow exhaust? I plan on ordering the Powerflow during their Oshkosh sale. So I gotta get rid of my generator.

I got the parmetheus plus from spruce. I wish I saw your post sooner. Now I wanna return it and get the pro.