BrettKS

My '65 M20C currently only has Mooney PC installed. I've done a bit of reading on MooneySpace (most threads are now dated) and the internet in general and below is the summary of what I've found as far as options for the C model. Current setup = GTN 750 with a standard six pack. Have a glideslope and VOR, the rest are steam gauges. No autopilot installed, just PC. I'm yet to be instrument rated but plan to do this within the next year and hope to get an AP installed prior to starting so that I can get familiar with it during training. I don't plan to regularly fly "hard IFR" but will be in an area with frequently low ceilings that I'd like to occasionally shoot an approach, take small cross country trips. I think I'm just looking for a two axis autopilot that will hold my altitude and follow my GTN's instructions for heading. Unless it's a similar cost, I don't think I'll need to have the AP be coupled to an approach and have vertical guidance (I think this is "coupled approach"?). Looking for an economic option as a priority. STEC: Majority of their models are STCd for the M20C. Seems like I'm looking at starting around $20k installed for a two axis with GPS steering. 3100 coming soon, will cost around $20k + install for 2-axis, $25k + install for 3 axis. Brittain Autopilots: Accutrac models -- compatible, but seem to have limited availability and company's future appears to be in question. I have emailed/called with no replies for several weeks. Probably not a good option to go without a current autopilot installed. Garmin: GFC possibly an option in the future, but the C model is not on their list as one that will have STC in the near future. Century: Appears to be older autopilot systems. Only Century I appears to be compatible with the M20C. It's unclear to me whether this will be fully compatible with my current avionics and be able to do what I need/want. Appears to be not as favorable compared to STEC. Are there any other options I'm missing? Any recommendations specific to my mission?

Now that's some luck!

Yes, I'll give this a try! That'd be an annoying problem! Good suggestion.

Thanks, I will take a closer look at the seal itself. Will look for the pin to turn. Thanks

The door is flush when it's closed. It doesn't become flush until the lever is actuated and the latch secured. It was difficult to do before I put the new door seal on. The old door seal was so thin I doubt it caused much resistance--and if it did, I think there is some other issue to address because it's designed to have a seal of some sort right?

Yes, I am holding it forecefully. My force of holding is limited by the leather strap that closes the door (I think it was part of a new interior that was done). Also, interestingly, the door is easier to close using the outside lever. I don't know whether ti has to do with a longer lever arm or the ease of pushing the door closer to the airframe.

My M20C has a cabin door that is difficult to close. I replaced the weather seals on it recently that made it even more so, but the problem existed before replacing the strip and now that the strip has been installed for several months, I'm thinking there is more to it. It is the style that has one lever that operates two latches, one on the side of the door, one on the top. I use the typical technique of pulling the handle aft then pushing firmly forward (from the inside), and it makes a loud snap as the door secures. The amount of pressure required is borderline uncomfortable, I feel like the lever is going to break. I'm wondering if the latch is misaligned somehow but am not sure how to go about troubleshooting. Has anyone had similar experiences?

Would you mind sharing the quote you got for painting in TN? I live in TN and may be in the market for a paint job soon.

Update: I started to experience the problem again and played around with the switch. Turns out if I apply pressure to the switch in a certain way the pump comes on! I think that confirms that the switch is at least part of the (hopefully the entire) issue. I'll replace it and go from there. Thanks for the suggestions and glad I didn't put out >$1k to overhaul a working pump!

That is exactly what my A&P joked about! Hilarious

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr2.php?clickkey=44598 https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbrocktbrkr.php?clickkey=44598 Would either of these work?

Is this done by empirically replacing the switch? Or a multimeter to test for continuity?

I've been having an issue where I think I have a "dead spot" on my fuel pump. Occasionally my pump won't turn on and it'll take a few tries. An A&P cave the pilot side of the cowl a bump where the pump is and it started running, suspected there was a dead spot and recommended replacing. Is this a reason to replace? Any other options. If I need to replace, the quote I got was an appx $1050 CJ aviation overhaul of my pump vs $1300-something for an overhauled pump, $1500-something for a new pump. Aircraft spruce has plenty of cheaper fuel pumps but I'm having trouble finding exactly which pumps would be compatible with my '65 M20C. Any thoughts on this?

I am unsure of make/type of plugs nor which is causing problems. I'll think to check EGT on each cylinder next time to narrow it down. Thanks for the tips. EGT gauge only. Based on what I'm reading, it's not nearly enough. I probably don't go below 3/5 mixture %. 1. Need to look at logs, can't remember. 2. I lean just after turning off the runway. 3. Yes, I go full rich in landing phase. Yes, I do have cylinder temps that would help diagnose which plug I'm having trouble with. I can't recall which # was replaced, will have to check logs. Yes, I think I'm way too rich based on what I'm reading here. Yeah, 2000RPM seems more reasonable than 2500RPM. Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions. Thanks

M20C-- Had a bad runup on one mag a few months ago. Turned out to need a new spark plug. On runup today, same issue. I again attempted going to 2500RPM for 30 sec and run up again, smooth. I assume this is deposit on the plugs. A few questions: 1. Best way to prevent this? I've read leaning mixture during ground operations; I already do this, but maybe not aggressively enough? How much do you lean? 2. As for "blowing deposit off" the plug (theoretically what we're doing with high RPM for short period of time, right?), what is the appropriate procedure to do this? Full rich to 2500RPM? Lean at all? For how long? Thanks!!

Yes, my cover does extend over the area to cover the avionics access panels. I'm just trying to convince myself that it isn't leaking there based on the fact that I had no evidence of water on the carpet under the avionics or moisture in that area before I got the cover. Ideally, I'd like it to be water proof in the rain without the cover

Flying in these summer days is tough. Any tips on keeping cool in a M20C? I don't seem to have as much air flow via vents as I did in my Cherokee. Also, What vent does the "cabin air" pull knob control? And the two vents pictured in the attached photos above the rudder pedals.. are the vent covers meant to be operated by hand? Is that cold air or heated air?

So cover is in, which is great. Interior is no longer getting wet at all. I'm curious about the potential for leaks on avionics from the area just forward of the windshield. If there was a leak here, where would I be able to detect water coming in? Would it drip on the avionics then fall to the carpet under the dash? Thanks

Will do. I confirmed the baggage door was likely a major contributor. Got that sealed with a Knots2U seal today and plan to test it with a garden hose once it sits for a bit. I also used some RTV to seal the front cowl area where the avionics related leaks are mostly originating, need to test this area as well. Interesting. I'm still not totally sure where this duct tape is, but I'm going to go to the plane this weekend with your photo and see if I can figure out what you mean. Added some data to my avatar. Thanks for the good summary here. Will keep your thoughts in mind. I did test out the overhead vent tubing system and didn't see any leaks. I found this tubing from the overhead vent and visually didn't see any leaks. Hopefully this isn't a contributor. Thanks! Yes, baggage door was at least one of the culprits. Replacing the seal for the cabin door and window vent this weekend.

Is this best assessed from the underside where the wing attaches to the fuselage? In the photo it appears that the wing is detached, right? Is it possible to redo the tape without detaching the wing?

I am a new M20C owner and unfortunately have to store my aircraft as a tie-down until I get off of one of the many hangar waiting lists I'm on. I have one of Macs covers ordered and should be arriving in the coming 1-2 weeks, but in the meantime I have noticed ongoing leaks during rain. I came to the plane today and found the carpets wet. Obviously I want to fix this asap and was wondering where the most likely sites of leaks would be. I have ordered new cabin door, baggage door, and vent window seals from K2U and will get those installed asap, but anywhere else I should be looking? Thanks!