BrettKS

Correct, AT&T for now. Other carriers are possible but would require some hardware change. I'll have to look into the feasibility (economics) of it.

Brilliant! Thanks

Makes sense, thanks. Yeah, probably a good habit just to switch it manually.

Any fix for that? The transponder isn't panel mounted so I have to restart all avionics power, don't have a great way to power cycle just the transponder. But with me resetting avionics power and it working the second time, maybe it isn't the issue to begin with..?

When flying an ILS approach, when will the Garmin auto switch from GPS CDI to the VOR/Glide? I've flown a couple approaches recently and on final found it hadn't switched so I've done it manually, but I thought it switched at some point automatically? Did I change a setting by accident? Also, anyone have experience with Garmin GTX345 and the GTN getting an ADS-B pressure altitude fault? It occurs on the ground occasionally and always goes away after power cycling, seems to work fine and has never occurred in the air. Wonder if the encoder is going bad, but seems like it wouldn't 100% fix just with a power cycle.

Looks like a few of you are using the service. Please let me know if you have feedback on the build or web app!

EDIT: Fixed a few links. I'll get the rest working throughout the day. If there is no link, an amazon search should yield you what you want! If anyone is interested in a "kit" purchase for cost of parts, I have spare parts from my builds and could send them your way (same cost) so you don't have to buy everything individually.

I've put together a how-to for the DIY type to make a cellular, internet-enabled switch to control your preheater from the comfort of your couch. I'm calling it IoTEP (Internet of things engine preheater). It is not difficult to put this together and requires tools and that the majority of you I bet have laying around! Total project cost is about $100, monthly cost is ~$3/month for the cellular service. This is a much less expensive alternative to the various commercial products available. The web app control has a basic on/off toggle as well as scheduling function based on a time. I'll be adding weather-based logic to it in the near future. I'd be happy to receive feedback on both the build instructions and website functionality. Build Instructions For those interested in discussion of a few other ways, check the original topic here.

Awesome! A few questions: - You mention wifi hotspot from phone; do you leave a phone in the hnagar with wifi hotspot activated at all times? - If so, why not just use a commercially available product like the $5 smart plugs from amazon ($10 if you want two channels) that give you a wifi app for control? - Also, my concern with DIY projects like these are they come with some liability for connecting home-made electronis to AC mains. Typically these products would require testing before being UL listed.

I don't see any info on their website yet. But presumably still using SMS commands / phone calls, still quite expensive, relies on keeping credits loaded on a prepaid plan and counting your texts.

I should have known MS-ers would have taken DIY stabs at this problem already. Thanks for enlightening me on the current solutions and enjoyed hearing about some alternative ways to get our Mooneys warm. I have a similar mindset as carusoam.. while I know how to connect a relay to a cellular modem to AC mains, I don't think it's wise for me to do. Liability for starting an electrical fire using a non-UL listed AC device in my T-hangar that is connected to aircraft much more expensive than mine gives me reservations (would insurance even cover this?). I also wonder what kind of testing some of these Chinese devices have gone through.. but maybe they are UL listed? I've actually used the commercially available IoT relay that was linked above. That way I can tinker with low voltage stuff and keep the heavy lifting in a) a separate box and b) someone else's product. Also as mentioned previously, I've used an embedded device with a cellular modem to drive a relay (we think alike!). The differences I've seen that set my method apart are: 1) LTE vs 2-3G networking -- 2G is nearly gone; I wonder what the support life-time of this cellular technology is; also better network coverage 2) A web app; SMS is old technology that is not as reliable and slower. I prefer to have a web-based portal that allows me to activate the switch among other features. 3) Web controls that make it "smarter"; turn on on this date if temp is < X, get history/status, set up schedules, overall just a bit more fine-tuned control. For the more nerdy folks, a RESTful API. 4) Possibly most importantly, a bit more affordable than the other commercial products out in the $300-500 range. Total cost of the hardware would be about $100. Subscription/service cost would depend on how many use it in order to support the backend, but somewhere in the $5 to $10 per month range.

I like it. Using Freedompop's service is a great idea.

You're absolutely right -- this is very similar, but fairly expensive! Thanks for sharing. Would love to see a photo of what you made.

Plenty that work with wifi. There are a few niche products available for cellular capabilities that are quite expensive, but if you know of any that are cellular and not ridiculously expensive, I'd be interested to read about them!

I had an idea for a device and ended up prototyping a few, looking for testers. The device is an internet-connected (cellular LTE) AC switch with a web app control. The idea is to plug in my engine preheater and toggle the switch from my phone several hours prior to flight. I am of the mindset that it's not ideal to keep the engine preheater on 24/7, and like I imagine most pilots, my hangar does not have wifi for me to use a readily available plug solution. Anyways, I am looking for a few owners who have a similar issue and would use it regularly to give me feedback. If you're interested, please send me a PM with 1)your name, 2) location where you hangar your aircraft, and 3)on average how many months per year you use your preheater. Edit: Comparison from devices mentioned below:

Searching the part number brings me up nothing, but searching roll pin on AS gets me several options. Any details on the size of the roll pin? Or is one size "standard"?

Hard for me to tell what's what from the assembly image, but is the pin #21 the one that is likely affected? Thanks

Thanks, that's just the information I was looking for. The handle itself seems to be intact. The part that broke is seen in the picture snapped between the door and the handle. It looked like a metal material rather than hard plastic. Functionally, the handle can spin too far forward and doesn't operate the latch anymore in the securing direction, but will operate the latch to release it if secured.

The interior handle snapped and a small piece of metal broke off. It's able to open the latch now but not close it (from the inside). I see the importance of keeping a vice grip in the aircraft now. Can anyone tell what's going on based on the part shown in the photo?

Absolutely, different mechanic has been found and scheduled for next annual. With the original mechanic the work was completed and annual signed off. I approved around $6k in work and bill came to over $8k with no additional approval from me or alert that jobs were taking longer than expected. Additionally, some work that I specifically declined was nonetheless performed because the mechanic considered it airworthy issues, basically taking away my opportunity to use a different mechanic on the field or getting a ferry permit.

I understand the above, but what about when an estimate is provided and work approved, then work goes way beyond (in terms of time/money) what was approved

So I have a C model that just got out of a hefty annual. I haven't had a great experience with the mechanic and on completion of the work, I got a bill that was multiple thousand more than quoted. I was given no notice of the underestimation of work for each job as the work progressed. Verbally the chief mechanic told me he quotes on the high end and wouldn't charge the difference if work came in over time. Now that the bill has been issued, he is denying that was said. Lesson learned there. But on to my general question, what's to prevent a maintenance shop from quoting low and charging whatever they want. Based on the verbage of maintenance agreement, it just says quotes are subject to change, but what's to prevent a $3k quote being turned into $25k? (I know an extreme example). Just not sure how to approach a sketchy maintenance situation or what grounds I have to stand on.

Looking for recommendations on where to get the ECI done nearest KROA. Thanks!

Yes, that is the piping that I was referring to. My '?' before "exhaust piping" was meant that I wasn't sure what this piping was for. Still developing my aviation vocabulary and knowledge-base. Either way, it seems like this could allow exhaust fumes/carbon monoxide into the cabin. Correct me if I'm wrong.. Photo was taken after I reattached it and secured the clamp. I'll have a mechanic inspect it when he's working on the vacuum before I take it in the air again.

I'm glad I took the cowl off. Fresh out of annual and noticed that this ? exhaust piping was completely loose and easy to pull off. I imagine this could have been an issue in flight.