shawnd

Ordered my door seals from Lasar, thanks @jetdriven. Also, good description of cleaning the surface and seal installation process from Aircraft Door Seals can be found at Aircraft Spruce site at https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/05-03621 Installation Instructions.pdf . They also recommend Peerco 321 for adhesive removal. Will be giving it a try in the very near future.

I picked up this unit based on cylinder size, retardant type and amount and the unit fits perfectly with the existing harness in my a/c: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/c352ts.php. The new harness that came with the fire extinguisher is on the floor. ps. that's glue on the plastic trim piece that's covered by carpet.

Congrats! She is a beauty.

Found the photos here: But yes - finished photos always welcome! Speaking of MooneyMax - what's the plan with folks? I have never been and the thread on MS is also quiet. Anyone have any updates?

Good move!

Enjoy! I remember bringing my plane home to WA. Fun journey but more fun to plan out all the upcoming trips. Welcome aboard!

I think pedal access is typically not an issue in the J or K (I have flown both). But certainly, the extensions can help alleviate access for those that need them. I find that sitting at the most forward seat notch makes my upper body work harder when working with the yoke vs if I sit slightly back. Since I am no doctor, I asked my favorite new friend ChatGPT and here's what it said in summary: Close to Yoke: Primarily involves shoulder muscles (deltoids, rotator cuff), upper arm muscles (biceps brachii), and forearm muscles. Farther from Yoke: Involves a greater range of motion, engaging additional muscles such as the trapezius, latissimus dorsi, triceps, and core muscles for stability and posture. I would tend to agree that more muscles are engaged making moving the yoke easier. As far as which ones - lets the doctors in the group chime in if the above is correct.

Also - what is the best strategy to determine how to align the seal when gluing it on. I.e., how many inches offset from the edge of the door should we start applying adhesive? I fear my previous one was more of a best guess attempt which resulted in increase in noise in the cabin.

Peerco 321 seems like it did a darn good job. My previous attempt with other products failed miserably. Which may have also led to the 3M product failing after 2 years. Anyone else have thoughts on the adhesive to use for the door seals? Regarding the door seals - I bought mine previously off Aircraft Spruce - will have to try GeeBee's. His baffle seal is perfect.

Congrats! Depending on avionics - start saving money for it now :-)

That's one expensive fix avoided :-) Good luck with the hunt for the electrical gremlin.

Agree, I am on their schedule for Oct 14-15 :-) Also got a local flight school with G3X and GFC 500 to familiarize myself with the avionics.

Standard contract of requiring approval before doing any additional work. The work consists of stripping out whole plane and redoing harnesses for the new panel, EIS and AP. Note that the estimated 260 hours is billed labor. Downtime is estimated to be 10 weeks or roughly 400 hours.

As long as they don’t charge for the extra hours Wait is okay and understandable.

Yes agree. But figured this is a good way to compare the jobs without getting into AMU aspects. I have also received quotes for 590 and 420 hours here in the PNW

I am about to start in a month or so here in the PNW. Quote is for 260 hours and 10 weeks downtime. Full strip with new panel, eis and senders. I will post a thread on it when I get close. Got advice on who to avoid as well.

Looks great! Is the font size customizable? Don't mean to critique, just asking: I think the stock switches have text a bit smaller than what is shown above. Similarly, the second row on the top of the button seem larger than the first row? Or maybe its just the picture

Congrats @Pinecone! You need to post some pictures! :-) BTW - what did you end up doing for the switches? Keeping the ETA rockers or going Carling?

Just a FYI - Lasar may have some in stock. They can also diagnose the issue. https://lasar.com/search?q=gear actuator

@redbaron1982 that truly looks great. Any chance you can post some pictures of a stock one and yours to compare side by side after sanding? How about the ALT1 & ALT 2 switches btw?

Going through this myself. For the interior screws, what type and sizes did you use? Also, are you painting, powder coating or leaving the screws and washers as is?

Thanks @Z W for the feedback. Yeah AP going bad is never a good situation. Always a good idea to test AP disconnect procedures during run-up/pre-takeoff check. And yes, seems like GFC500 is loved by everyone :-) @wombat Yep, hoping mine keeps running esp if the avionics shop can get the setup configured properly. Perhaps a servo IRAN in the future, but that's okay to do. Based on conversations with the shops, likely will have all the estimates from everyone by next week just in time for April Fool's day..

A GAD 43E ($4AMU retail price) can get those enabled even for KFC 150.

More and more I am leaning towards the "Keep the KFC option" with G500TXi. On a separate note, regarding the straight and level button, the KFCs can do the same operation I think in 4 button pushes. Heading button press to align bug to current heading Hit the ALT button on KFC Hit the HDG button KFC Hit the AP button on KFC. Haven't had an opportunity to try it out but should get your plane to S&L condition. Or are there envelopes beyond which KFC won't engage vs a GFC 500 would?

Curious if MMO affects oil analysis?