Bart Chilcott

Greg, Yes, I’m very interested. Interested in knowing why positive constructive feed back from loyal customers to a CEO was completely ignored and still interested in the upgrade. I wrote a letter to John Uczekaj. I spoke with his admin and asked for his contact info. She asked me what the nature of my request for contact was. I explained that I wanted to voice my concern over not being informed Via mailing list like other Aspen customers about the opportunity to upgrade my displays during the promo and that I had spoken with a particular employee about the issue and how the company needed to improve its CRS (customer relationship software) as I was never contacted about the promotion. I sent the letter to the admin but suspect she may have round filed it. I still have the email, and proff of its delivery. Happy to forward it to you Greg.

Ha! Thanks carusoam. Honestly, I love my Aspens but that little center mounted Aera 660 packs on hell of a punch for $750.00. Its so crystal clear that it got me to thinking my Aspens may need refreshing. HOWEVER, $750 and $7500 are quite a different animal.

Thanks for your input! So you don't feel there is enough improvement in screen quality or other features given the current upgrade price? I tried to get in on the 2K per unit upgrade. I missed out on it by four weeks and Aspen refused to let me have the promo price. I even wrote a letter to the CEO but got no response from him.

I currently am running an Aspen Evolution 2000 Pro with synthetic vision, XM Weather and TAS605 traffic. I'm thinking of upgrading the PFD / MFD to the Max Pro system but wanted to seek input from those who have done so already. The cost is now $7500.00 for the upgrade. For those of you who have done this, did you find it worth the expense? Would you do it again at the current price? I have really enjoyed my Aspens, however I've had two unit failures since 2015. Aspen has taken care of them under extended warranty however, I'm hoping the upgrade is also an improvement in reliability. I'm not looking to remove my vacuum AI at this time so that is not a selling point to me. All experienced opinions appreciated. Thanks in advance! Bart Chilcott (whiskey charlie) N706WC 1965 M20E

Hi Takair, the mounts are 20 years old. Running a two bladed Hartzel. I went ahead and purchased new Lord mounts and will be installing them in the next few weeks. I’ll be posting my findings after install.

By perfect, I mean very very good. No it wasn’t 0.0. I can remember the exact number off the top of my head. The technician who performed the dynamic balance told me the figure and stated it was as good as it gets. He also told me that while the prop was in balance, the aft portion of the test was off. As I understand it, the dynamic balance is on two planes. He felt that his balance test showed either something internally with the engine, an issue with the engine mount it’s self or the lord isolators were allowing vibration. So yes, you can have a prop that is spot on and still have vibration.

Good to know Art. We’re you experiencing any unusual vibration?

No sag on the engine at all. AI has inspected for cracks several times, non visible. Running a two bladed prop that I just recently had dynamically balanced and the balance cane out perfect. That’s why we are zeroing in on the isolators. Given their age, it seems the next logical path.

Much appreciated Carusoam! We’ve looked closely at the steel engine mount but haven’t found an issue. I do believe I will go forward with installing the new isolators and look close at the actual mount.

I’m trying to resolve some vibration issues at 2500 rpm and above on my IO-360. It’s enough that it’s destroyed two landing lights and cracked the cowling above the spinner. I’ve had my propped dynamically balanced and insured that the cowling isn’t touching anywhere. Next on my list are my Lord Engine Isolators. They were last replaced in the year 2000. So they are 20 years old and have just over 1000 hours of service. They show no detectable engine sag and have no visible cracks. Do they have a useful life? Has anyone had experience with replacing them based on age as opposed to clear signs they need replacing? Thank you in advance for your help.

Thank you Clarence! I’ll check that out!!

I have a 65 M20E with the IO-360. I’ve owned the plane since 2015 and have put approx 450 hours on it. This is the first Mooney I have owned and the first IO-360 I’ve owned as well. The engine has approx 900 SMOH and runs great. However, I’ve had to have the top cowl repaired three times for a crack just above the spinner and I’ve replaced two LED landing lights do to cracking. Additionally, I’ve had to have one of my Aspens replaced as well (although not sure that was vibration related.)My first thought was prop balance. I had that done and found it wasn’t very far out of balance at all. My IA suggested that the cowl may be rubbing and transferring engine vibration. He found the top cowl was touching on one spot and the lower cowling was making contact in several places. He modified the cowling and its much better at lower RPMs but at 2200 to 2500 RPM, there is a definite “buzz” in the floor of the cockpit and vibration of the plastic interior side panel. We have inspected the engine mounts and found they are a little warn but the engine isn’t sagging much if at all. However, I do hear a bit of a bang on shut down or when I first start it as if the engine has a bit of play on the mounts. Has anyone else encountered this? Your thoughts and insight are appreciated in advance. Bart Chilcott N706WC1965 M20E Serial #647Sent from my iPhone

Thanks Brian, Making sure I understand. Are you saying the total cost was 5K or was that just the install cost?

Thank you for your reply Spectre. I’m in the same thought as you as it being pricy. However, you brought up an interesting point. It took you 40 hours to install it. If I calculate that out at $95.00 (std I think) shop rate X 40 hours. That comes to $3800 labor plus the cost of the unit of $4000.00 equals $7800.00. Roughly half what I was quoted. Did you also have to install and calibrate new Fuel tank sensors? Just curious what that might add to the complexity and time. Also, did your 40 hours include removal of existing tach, Map, legacy gauges and new panel section? Just trying to define the true time and labor cost.

Thanks for that info! Aside the corrupted update, how do you like your 660?

I currently have a JPI EDM 700 on my E. It works flawlessly displaying CHT’s EGT’s volts, oil temps, GPH, and has the fuel totalizer on it. It is also links to my GPS to show fuel required, fuel remaining after arrival etc.. I’m actually very happy with it. Recently, my MP gauge went out and it got me to thinking a lot upgrading to the 900 or 930 and eliminating the MAP/FUEL and TACH along with the legacy gauge cluster. I was told by the shop that created my panel that upgrading would require all new sensors, probes and tank sensors in my long range bladders. I was quoted $14,000.00 for the JPI EDM900 and just shy of $16,000 for the 930, (PLUS PANEL WORK of another $1800.00.) Basically, it’s the price of the unit plus $12K for install. My question for the group is two fold and I’d appreciate feedback from those who have purchased and installed either of these units. 1) Is this a price in alignment with what others have paid? Or, is it more reflective of the abundance of avionics work being done and the shops simply being able to set their price? 2) I’ve included a picture of my current panel. For those of you who have the smaller 900, if I were to install it, would it be useful/readable located on the top, right side panel in landscape mode? Or, would it be best to eliminate the OBS on the left side panel and install it portrait next to the Aspens? Looking at upgrading the 430W as well at the same time but that’s another discussion for another day. Thank you in advance for your input. Bart Chilcott N706WC 1965 M20E Wichita Ks

Thank you for taking time to create this Jason. Your side panels look great too! Did Hector at Aero Comfort do that for you?

I’m not sure what tools you have available to you but at Beechcraft and Cessna factories, we used digital inclinometers for precisely measuring control surface angle. Most A&P’s have these and would be a very precise way to determine the angle.

I paid $150.00 for my last hub inspection and the inspection was done in my hangar. I’ve seen prices as high as $350.00 here in Kansas as well.

Interesting. With all the aircraft machine shops here in ICT (Wichita) supporting Boeing, Cessna, Beechcraft and Learjet, I would think it would be easy to find someone here to machine them for Lasar. I’m due for one myself. Think I’ll look into this.

Okay cool. Makes sense!

Thank you Drapo, that convinces me to go with the NL!

Thank you Bob. I appreciate that. I think I’ll just go new though. How do you like the cranking torque and speed out of the NL?

Yes, I’m do know I need 149 tooth. I’m just wondering if anyone else has used the NL on the E model. I actually need all the weight upfront I can get. I’m aft heavy do to TCAS electronics in the tail. No matter which starter I choose. I’ll have to add weight to offset the lighter starter.

Thank you Carusosm. Looks like that’s on a C model but still useful info!