Rick Junkin

Thanks for catching that, my bad. Yes. <4K ohms. I corrected my original post.

Your #1 CHT is out of phase with the rest of the cylinders so I don't think you have an EGT or CHT probe issue. There's something happening at full power on #1 that resolves at cruise power. 1748dF EGT is troubling, and implies either a too lean mixture or a bad plug. Since the problem resolves at cruise power and the fuel side has been checked I'd look at both #1 plugs. An extended runup check at a lean mixture might show you if one of the plugs is dropping out. Otherwise pulling them both and checking that resistance is <4K ohms as has been suggested might show which plug is bad, if either is. What plugs are you running? Cheers, Rick

I turn the GPU on and verify stable power first, and then connect it to the airplane. That’s what the White Lightning GPU owner’s manual says to do, and it’s how we did it on military jets.

I looked into this on the website and the form for the conversion states they’ll only convert units less than 3 years old. Unfortunately I’m well outside that window.

...and then I discovered the crack in my exhaust All for naught, the whole shebang is going out for overhaul, including the heat shroud. Actually I guess it wasn't for naught - I may not have discovered the exhaust crack had I not been working on the shroud in the first place, and decided to pressurize the exhaust while I had it off. How fortuitous.

You forgot to mention it requires brute force and some amount of cursing. But I guess that goes for just about every job in the Bravo engine compartment. i got it out and discovered that a poor attempt had been made to effect a previous repair in the same area. I need to stop drill several cracks, make a doubler and rivet it in place, and rivet the outlet tube onto the repaired area. Lots of supervised work on this one. Thanks for the help!

DOH!!! Exactly. I eliminated the cigar lighter receptacle and added dual USB ports to both sides of the panel. And then I got an Inogen G5. Fortunately I have a cigar lighter receptacle on the back wall of the baggage compartment so I can plug in there.

Thanks! I didn't want to cut into it if that wasn't the approved solution. The intake and induction filter have been removed for access.

@philiplane Can you give me some pointers on the best way to remove the heat shroud from the exhaust cross-over tube? Mine has what looks like heatproof fabric on it that covers the split on the top of the shroud for the exhaust cross-over tube tether cable and we can't see how to get it off around the cable without destroying the fabric. Or even how to cut the fabric if that's what it takes. Mine's damaged (the angled output tube broke free) and we can't repair it in place. I know we're missing something. It can't really be this hard, its supposed to be removed for inspection of the cross-over every annual. Thanks for your help and expertise! Cheers, Rick

I need to remove the heater shroud for repairs but can’t figure out how to get it off. Will it come off around the tether cable for the exhaust crossover tube or do I need to disconnect the cable and pull it through the shroud? I think I just answered my own question, but I’m at the end of my day and I’d rather not disassemble anything else at this point. This will be first up in the morning. Thanks in advance, all you Bravo gurus.

Search for "folding drink holder" on Amazon and a bunch of different ones will come up. If you want this exact one, the only place I could find it (easily) was on Temu.com. Search there for "cup holders for vehicles".

Cup holders on velcro

Excellent news, congrats!

@toomany Only the riveted v-band is approved for installation, P/N NH1009399-10 (Aeroquip) or 40D23255-340M (Textron-Lycoming). Here's the SB from 2004 that established the requirement. SB 283a - exhaust v-band and deflection shield.pdf And here's the Lycoming Service Instruction that explains how the v-bands are to be installed. Assembly and Torque Procedures for V-Band Couplings.pdf

Ditto

Now to determine the parasitic load on #1 with the new panel. My gut tells me it's in the noise.

The catch with this is the charger can't be more than 3 years old. Unfortunately I was outside that window.

@PT20J Skip, there's a bunch of flavors of BatteryMinders. Are you saying that the differences are small enough that any of them will work ok with any battery? I ask because I just switched from Gill LTs to Concorde RGs and replaced a 24V -S2 (Gill/Concorde flooded) with a -S5 (Concorde sealed RG). Did I waste my money? I never did get around to buying the -S3 BatteryMinder that is supposed to be optimized for the Gill LT batteries. I used the -S2 that I had for the 243's that were originally in the airplane when I bought it.

I switched from Falcon to Airspeed a number of years ago for the very same reason - decline in personalized service. For the first few years with Falcon I had great one-on-one service with one broker. Then I got a renewal reminder from someone else at Falcon, and it became difficult to get in touch directly with "my" broker. When I finally was able to talk to her we had a very pleasant conversation with me explaining that I was taking my business to Airspeed and why. She was empathetic and it seemed apparent she wasn't happy with the new process either. We parted on good terms. Parker has been awesome to work with, and has been my advocate with the underwriters. He's provided actionable advice that has maximized my coverage while ensuring a fair premium for both my airplane and my hangar. I couldn't ask for more.

I just replaced two Gill LT batteries with Concorde RG24-15Ms. One of the Gills, my #2 battery, was installed in 2019 and remained mostly for ballast for the last couple of years. I installed the other one, my #1 battery that handles the power-off parasitic items, in 2023 and it was on its last legs going into this year's annual. Both were maintained on a BatteryMinder. Interesting to note that the Concorde documentation advises against 24/7 maintenance charging and instead recommends a weekly or monthly top-off charge, depending on how much you fly. Also interesting to note is that the White Lightening GPUs that have a BatteryMinder incorporated only have a single version of the BatteryMinder available, and it doesn't say anywhere what version it is. When I asked the question the answer I got was "it's good for all batteries". Makes me wonder about how much difference there really is between the different flavors of BatteryMinders and, more importantly, how much difference it really makes. I'm not smart enough to figure that one out (I got to take the electrical engineering course TWICE) but I know some of you are.

I was seeing the same thing. It appeared I was losing airspeed data just before the disconnects (airspeed turned yellow, airspeed trend bar showed max increase trend, wind data went away) although the anomaly wasn’t indicated in the downloaded data. My shop replaced the ADAHRS (GSU-25D) as the most likely cause but I’ve only been able to fly once since then. It was a short return flight from the shop but I didn’t have any disconnects.

I agree. I’m planning to wrap and reroute that wiring. I almost looks like it was a temporary “in progress” bundling of the wires during the installation that didn’t get revisited to be secured in a final configuration. EDIT: I’ve been having some flakey A/P behavior, this very well could be part of the problem.

That’s already on my to-do list. I have lots of spiral wrap on hand.

No worries! I was using a 24V -S2 with two Gill LT sealed batteries (I had switched from Gill flooded 243s) and it seemed to work fine but I knew it wasn't optimum. I have that charger, Model 244CEC1-AA-S2, available at the same price. I just installed 2 new sealed Concordes and got the -S5 charger for them.

It's yours Matt, but first let's make sure it's the right model for your application. It's a -S2, the red blocks in this application chart on the cover of the instruction manual. It's calibrated specifically for flooded batteries. If you have a Gill sealed battery you'll want to look for the -S3. The -S2 will work but it won't give you an optimized maintenance charge. If you're satisfied it will work for you, DM me your shipping address, email and phone number and we'll get this done! Cheers, Rick