highlowfastslow

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About highlowfastslow

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday February 18

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago
  • Reg #
    N48176
  • Model
    1965 M20E

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  1. One thing that wasn’t mentioned yet is putting an original J cowl on a pre-J frame. No idea what it cost to do this on mine, but I doubt it’s worth considering anymore from a cost/benefit standpoint.
  2. highlowfastslow

    Burned output lug on alternator

    The whole red plate was loose, but i think it was because that nut was basically gone. The other terminals over the plate were all tight. No, nothing connected to it. Only connection was to the terminal below the burned terminal. The shop that sold me the alternator agreed to take it back and repair at no cost, but obviously annoying to have to incur more labor for a faulty alternator. Will for sure be checking this as well. If it means anything, it seemed like the amps were more stable at a low power setting on the ground with a light load. Here is a picture i found of identical alternator with an arrow to the lug that burned. There is a connection at the lug directly below, but there wasn't anything connected to the burned lug.
  3. Interested in your thoughts on what’s going on with my alternator. I recently replaced my aging alternator with an overhauled unit, this is the InterAv. I also put in a new Plane Power voltage regulator. I got 3 hours on the plane this weekend. The volts held up between 13.9-14.3. It was fluctuating more than I’d like but not significantly more than in the past. The load meter, however, was showing pretty substantial variations in amps, to the tune of jumping from 10 to 30 with no change in load. On two occasions the volts went to battery voltage and amps to 0 for less than a minute, then came back. Last, there was a notable intermittent whine in the comms that was not there before. I don’t think it was a diode, though, as it didn’t vary with RPM and was intermittent (and this is a newly overhauled alternator). With the symptoms above I decided to pull the cowling and discovered the melted output lug in the pic below (I believe that’s what it is). This lug had no connections to it. The A&P I’m working with believes it’s a faulty alternator that is not grounding properly. I double checked the grounding wire and it looked secure, so could it be something internal to the alternator causing this? Anyone else see something like this before and have other ideas? The shop that sold me the alternator has agreed to take it back and repair it. My concern is whether it’s something other than the alternator itself causing this. I don’t want to unnecessarily fry another alternator if its not a fault of the alternator.
  4. highlowfastslow

    Wing mounted landing light.

    Unfortunately I couldn't find any paperwork other than the 337. It says: RETROFIT MOONEY M20J WING LANDING LIGHT ASSY STA. 133.00/118.25. INSTALLED MOONEY KIT PN 210417-502 USING SUPPLIED PARTS AND WIRED PER MANUFACTURER INSTRUCTIONS (33-40-00). Here are some close ups of the landing light as requested. pics. I should really remove the lens and clean it....
  5. highlowfastslow

    Wing mounted landing light.

    My E came with the wing landing light. I like the look. The plastic cover on the light is also flush with leading edge of the wing so save for the screws i don't think drag is too bad. Love the clean lower cowling too. I'll take a look at the paperwork next week when i'm at the hangar to see if I have anything that could help.
  6. highlowfastslow

    High EGT on one cylinder

    which cylinder peaks first when you lean? Is it number 1 or another cylinder and how big is the difference or the GAMI spread?
  7. highlowfastslow

    Strip & Seal Fuel Tanks

    You should check out Van Allen Airmotive in Allentown PA. Dave Van Allen opened up shop there a year or two ago and and does the full strip and re-seal professionally. When i was in there having a cylinder replaced another MS member (orionflt) was having a strip and seal done - said he did a great job. Not a short flight from NE, but you've got commercial flights right out of Allentown or it's a quick drive to Baltimore for cheap Southwest flights.
  8. highlowfastslow

    When do you retract flaps after take-off?

    In my E I actually raise the flaps right after lift off as long as it's not a short field or obstacles off the departure end. I like accelerating to Vy as soon as I lift off so that means the flaps come up. Gear comes up, usually after the flaps, once no more usable runway. Short fields I'm gear up at positive rate, climb at Vx and then flaps up clear of obstacles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. highlowfastslow

    Griffin avionics, Hyannis MA

    I had them repair a damaged flap that was hit by a barrel. They did a fine job although they obviously sent the flap out to be reskinned and painted. I did have them check out a few other things and it got expensive pretty quickly. Wouldn't have an issue having them troubleshoot if you have any issues on the field. I fly to Hyannis from Chicago many times a year so maybe I'll see you over there.
  10. highlowfastslow

    In need of a mechanic in Pennsylvania (KDUJ)

    While I'm waiting on a new cylinder to get put in, I thought I'd ask about the best procedure when breaking in one new cylinder. I did some searching and couldn't find consensus when just replacing one cylinder. Should I use mineral oil and run it like I'm breaking in a new engine? Or do I use AD oil and run it normally? I obviously don't want to put my other 3 cylinders at risk when breaking in the new cylinder.
  11. highlowfastslow

    In need of a mechanic in Pennsylvania (KDUJ)

    We did! Great meeting you Brian - thank you for the offer to help us out and for taking a look at the cylinder. It took us a while to realize it was an option, but we ended up renting a car and driving to New Hampshire. Easy 6 hour drive then we'll head back to Chicago Tuesday. We'll be back sometime during the weekend of Aug 19th to pick up the plane so if you're around we'll see you then. Thanks again. We did. Dave was extremely helpful and and generous with his time on Saturday. Brian above also happened to be there and helped us out. You're probably spot on with your hunch. We boresxoped number 4 and saw a couple things: - a lot of oil - significant scoring on the wall of the cylinder The cylinder will have to be pulled and I'll have to get a new one based on how bad the scoring is. We're thinking one of the rings cracked, likely the oil control ring? What typically causes a ring to crack? Just age or are there other drivers? I assume it was replaced when the cylinders were all overhauled in 2010, but not positive Unfortunately I caught it too late to save the cylinder. Lesson learned, although I'm not sure how to spot that problem sooner. I never saw abnormal temperatures and the plug didn't start fouling until this last flight. Will cost me a couple of AMUs, but should have it back in the air in a couple weeks so all is good.
  12. highlowfastslow

    In need of a mechanic in Pennsylvania (KDUJ)

    No worries Brad and thanks for the suggestion. I'm at KXLL now and will be getting a second opinion this afternoon. Feel good that whatever the cause can get taken care of here.
  13. highlowfastslow

    In need of a mechanic in Pennsylvania (KDUJ)

    I'm not sure how many hours on the plug. The cylinder has about 235 hours it looks like. Cleaning of the plugs did help so that seems like the problem and what's leading to roughness. Now we just need to find out what's causing it... Yes, the mechanic did suggest the fouled plug on #4 was causing the roughness. He cleaned the plugs and that did help significantly. The update is that i'm now in Queen City, PA and going to meet with Dave this afternoon. After doing several run ups and a full power run down the runway this morning, I decided it was safe to depart. It made 2700 rpm and readings were normal taking off and climbing. Kept a really close eye on #4 the whole flight. The roughness did return after a while and it manifested itself in a slight drop (20 degrees or so) with #4 EGT, but it then came back and roughness disappeared. Roughness would last no more than 3-4 seconds at a time. This happened every 5-10 minutes or so. On the hour long flight it went through another 3/4 of a quart so still burning a lot of oil. CHTs held steady at 270 the entire way and oil temps and pressure steady as well. Feel good about making the flight and optimistic that i can get the right answers here at Queen City. Thanks again for all the help everyone. Will update once we get some answers.
  14. highlowfastslow

    In need of a mechanic in Pennsylvania (KDUJ)

    Mooneyspace is awesome. This is great advice and I spoke with Dave earlier, who was extremely helpful. I do have an engine monitor but I'm not sure I'll be able to pull it here. The CHTs and EGTs were all normal during the flight, but will see if I can get them pulled. I'm going to try and get a compression value from the mechanic tomorrow. He also did a borescope and said things "looked good", but want to confirm with him what he saw. I wish I knew the right questions to ask on the spot, it's a learning process. He did check the plugs and #4 was pretty oily and probably fouled during flight. It sounds like that could be leading to the roughness? I did do a mag check and the RPMs were within limits, but it felt slightly rougher than normal. He didn't check the injectors; once he saw the readings on #4 he stopped going further. I'm going to confirm with him tomorrow that he got a look at the valve and it looked ok. The clear piece of feedback here is don't rush to pull the cylinder...will be sure to heed that advice and exhaust other options first. Thanks all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. highlowfastslow

    In need of a mechanic in Pennsylvania (KDUJ)

    1) I'm not sure, should have asked 2) It was coming out of the filler tube Are you saying overhaul makes more sense than replacing the rings? Will it just happen again if they're replaced? The cylinders were all overhauled in 2010