highlowfastslow

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About highlowfastslow

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday February 18

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago
  • Reg #
    N48176
  • Model
    1965 M20E

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  1. highlowfastslow

    KX-125, KT-76C, and KN-62A for sale - SOLD

    Alan - I'll give you a call later this week Yes, in great condition and comes with tray. Need to confirm on connectors, but I believe so. I am out of town through 1/3, can check and will be able to ship then.
  2. highlowfastslow

    Directional Gyro For Sale: SIGMA-TEK 4000C-1

    Bump and reduced. Get the sense there isn't much of a market for these...
  3. highlowfastslow

    KX-125, KT-76C, and KN-62A for sale - SOLD

    Sorry Steve, the KT76C just sold. Well, that makes a face lift easy. Thank you.
  4. Hi everyone - just completed a couple of upgrades to the panel and have some avionics for sale. Open to offers. KX-125 - $950 - SOLD KT-76C - $300 - SOLD KN-62A - $650 (screen is faded, but it works fine when lit up) - SOLD I also have a Sigma-Tek DG that is Stec compatible and a spinner dome for a J cowl in good condition for a (posted separately). Let me know if you're interested
  5. highlowfastslow

    Directional Gyro For Sale: SIGMA-TEK 4000C-1

    Bump. Open to offers. Have some more avionics coming in the next week: KX-125, KN-62A, KT-76C. If you're interested let me know.
  6. Removed for upgrade. Works perfectly. S-Tec autopilot compatible (52D54M). Part #1U262-004-15. $800 shipped / OBO
  7. One thing that wasn’t mentioned yet is putting an original J cowl on a pre-J frame. No idea what it cost to do this on mine, but I doubt it’s worth considering anymore from a cost/benefit standpoint.
  8. highlowfastslow

    Burned output lug on alternator

    The whole red plate was loose, but i think it was because that nut was basically gone. The other terminals over the plate were all tight. No, nothing connected to it. Only connection was to the terminal below the burned terminal. The shop that sold me the alternator agreed to take it back and repair at no cost, but obviously annoying to have to incur more labor for a faulty alternator. Will for sure be checking this as well. If it means anything, it seemed like the amps were more stable at a low power setting on the ground with a light load. Here is a picture i found of identical alternator with an arrow to the lug that burned. There is a connection at the lug directly below, but there wasn't anything connected to the burned lug.
  9. Interested in your thoughts on what’s going on with my alternator. I recently replaced my aging alternator with an overhauled unit, this is the InterAv. I also put in a new Plane Power voltage regulator. I got 3 hours on the plane this weekend. The volts held up between 13.9-14.3. It was fluctuating more than I’d like but not significantly more than in the past. The load meter, however, was showing pretty substantial variations in amps, to the tune of jumping from 10 to 30 with no change in load. On two occasions the volts went to battery voltage and amps to 0 for less than a minute, then came back. Last, there was a notable intermittent whine in the comms that was not there before. I don’t think it was a diode, though, as it didn’t vary with RPM and was intermittent (and this is a newly overhauled alternator). With the symptoms above I decided to pull the cowling and discovered the melted output lug in the pic below (I believe that’s what it is). This lug had no connections to it. The A&P I’m working with believes it’s a faulty alternator that is not grounding properly. I double checked the grounding wire and it looked secure, so could it be something internal to the alternator causing this? Anyone else see something like this before and have other ideas? The shop that sold me the alternator has agreed to take it back and repair it. My concern is whether it’s something other than the alternator itself causing this. I don’t want to unnecessarily fry another alternator if its not a fault of the alternator.
  10. highlowfastslow

    Wing mounted landing light.

    Unfortunately I couldn't find any paperwork other than the 337. It says: RETROFIT MOONEY M20J WING LANDING LIGHT ASSY STA. 133.00/118.25. INSTALLED MOONEY KIT PN 210417-502 USING SUPPLIED PARTS AND WIRED PER MANUFACTURER INSTRUCTIONS (33-40-00). Here are some close ups of the landing light as requested. pics. I should really remove the lens and clean it....
  11. highlowfastslow

    Wing mounted landing light.

    My E came with the wing landing light. I like the look. The plastic cover on the light is also flush with leading edge of the wing so save for the screws i don't think drag is too bad. Love the clean lower cowling too. I'll take a look at the paperwork next week when i'm at the hangar to see if I have anything that could help.
  12. highlowfastslow

    High EGT on one cylinder

    which cylinder peaks first when you lean? Is it number 1 or another cylinder and how big is the difference or the GAMI spread?
  13. highlowfastslow

    Strip & Seal Fuel Tanks

    You should check out Van Allen Airmotive in Allentown PA. Dave Van Allen opened up shop there a year or two ago and and does the full strip and re-seal professionally. When i was in there having a cylinder replaced another MS member (orionflt) was having a strip and seal done - said he did a great job. Not a short flight from NE, but you've got commercial flights right out of Allentown or it's a quick drive to Baltimore for cheap Southwest flights.
  14. highlowfastslow

    When do you retract flaps after take-off?

    In my E I actually raise the flaps right after lift off as long as it's not a short field or obstacles off the departure end. I like accelerating to Vy as soon as I lift off so that means the flaps come up. Gear comes up, usually after the flaps, once no more usable runway. Short fields I'm gear up at positive rate, climb at Vx and then flaps up clear of obstacles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk