ken66770

Total Time 6522 Time since Factory "0 Time" Overhaul 1080. August Annual. Compressions 1)78/80 2)75/80 3)77/80 4)76/80 ADs up to date Brittain Accu/Flite Accu/Trak and AltHold all in working condition Garmin 430W GTX335 ADS-B King KX155 4 place intercom No Fuel Leaks Interior and Paint average to above average 0FAQ.pdf 63MGear.pdf 7763M0Time.pdf

Posted photos with original post. They should be up by now. The unit was purchased from Sportys about 18 months ago. I used the XM weather for about a year and dropped it. Haven't resubscribed.

Recently upgraded my 430W. Will sell my Garmin Aera 796 for first offer over $1275. Comes with GPS and XM Antennas, AC charging mount, aircraft mount, Manuals, and everything I received when I bought it new. The carry case has a worn spot in one corner which has no bearing on the operation of the unit which is fully functional. The XM weather feature requires a subscription to Sirius. Email any questions. No phone calls, please.

I have a good 796 that I would sell if you are still looking.

Indeed, a mechanical gauge AND a new transponder just installed. It looks like the leak has stopped after I tightened the connector. The Tach is located directly under the oil pressure gauge the oil dripping from above evidently made it appear that oil was coming from the tach. It looks like the vacuum pump failure is just a coincidence. Thanks to all that responded.

During a local flight we discovered oil running down the front of the instrument panel of our 1974 Mooney M20C. There is enough to be obvious and to drip on the carpet. It appears to be coming from the front of the Tach/RPM gauge. I have pulled the cowling and can clearly see the back of the gauges but I can't really identify the source of the leak.The vacuum source inoperative light also just came on, which I assume indicates a bad Vacuum pump. Can the Vacuum pump and the oil leaking from the panel be connected? I can't get into an A&P for at least a week. Does anyone have any ideas about what could be happening from the symptoms I have described?

No one is mentioning using anti-seize compound when reinstalling screws? It's messy, but makes next year much easier.

Thanks guys. Slowflyin pretty much confirms what I have discovered. A thorough search of the forum has turned up some other pretty good information also. There is a lot to be said for the keep it simple approach.

I took the plane up again yesterday and spent a couple of hours tracking VOR-VOR and then simulated approaches. I started with just the altitude hold: at altitude trim the plane for straight and level at the desired altitude pull the left knob OUT then the right knob OUT. The system appears to hold okay within a hundred feet. Turn it off by pushing the right knob in. Does that sound about right? Everything in this system is newly overhauled, so it should hold a little better I would think. AccuTrak: Tracks a VOR radial or the Garmin 430W. If you are not on the desired radial it does not seem to look for the heading and intercept it. Same with the 430 bearing. If you have already set the plane on course then it seems to follow as I would expect. AccuFlite: Intercepts a course set with the bug on the Directional Gyro with a standard rate turn and a smooth roll out. Seems to work okay as long as the intercept angle is not to far off. In other words a turn from 360 to 180 doesn't seem to work. I need to check this out further. Also, the AccuFlite is supposed to work with the AccuTrak for vectored approaches, at least I think it should. I'm a little fuzzy on the exact procedure. Assume we are on course as assigned by ATC, Vectors to final, the 430 is Loaded but not activated for the approach, Accuflite is ON AccuTrak OFF. New vector - set with the heading bug. At last vector activate the approach on the 430 and turn on the Accutrak with the Accuflite set to the final approach course? That all appears to work but a little complicated. Of course I realize the system is NOT approved for approaches and is supposed to be turn off. Am I on the right track? Pun intended. Ken

We just got the plane back from Brittain after having the AccuTrak and Pitch Stabilization systems overhauled and AccuFlite added to the system. The instruction manuals assume a simple "nothing to it" stance that I am having some trouble adapting to. I haven't had the opportunity to really spend much time flying with the system yet, but so far I can't seem to get it all together. Does anyone have any tips or tricks that might shorten the learning curve?

Finished the annual. I assisted (which means I pulled the panels and watched) tried to make sure any issues were addressed. We found no problems. We also had the primary KX155 aligned and overhauled by Bevan-Rabell of Wichita. We did the same with the Narco which is now in top shape once again. I really intended to run the engine until there were signs of weakening before committing to an overhaul. As usual, plans don't always work out so I am going to let the plane go as much as I would like to keep it. Advertising in earnest now - we will entertain reasonable and serious offers.

It is still available. I have had it in the shop for an annual and haven't been advertising it much.

1965 Mooney M20C For Sale $31,000 TT: ~4600 hrs Engine 1960 SMOH - High time but still strong Annual August 2016 IFR Certified Radios: KX 197A TSO Nav Transceiver KX155 with Glide slope and KI209 indicator - Calibrated and overhauled August 2016 R87 TSO ADF Apollo II Marrow FlyBuddy GPS Narco 122 Nav/Com with Glide slope and indicator - Calibrated and overhauled August 2016 KT76A Transponder, KN64 DME Two Place Intercomm Electric gear Brittain wing leveler with new boots. Works great! UBG-16 Bar Graph Engine Analyzer Fuel Tanks: 52 Gallon tanks. Paint: 7/10 Interior: 9/10 Two tone Tan. Looks like new. This great handling, fast, and enjoyable plane has a high time engine but with good compression stats: #1-76/80, #2-77/80, #3-74/80,#4-78/80. Although 2000 hrs. is recommended I feel this one still has a lot of time left.

No,not my first. I have flown Mooneys since the 1970s. Owned Tri-Pacer, Arrow, and Cessna. Always came back to a Mooney.I have a 1965 M20C (which I will probably sell now) and wanted an upgrade.

After going through the logbooks and seeing the plane, I felt the asking price was fair. Josh and I are both happy with the deal and in my opinion that's the way deals should be made. The wife liked the color, and she is happy. Also very important.

Where can I find the Service Instruction M20-95? The only 20-95 I can find refers to a land gear switch. I certainly agree it would be preferable to correct a problem if possible. Please disregard, I found it here: http://www.mooney.com/service-support/service-instructions/ Thanks for the information.

When I first bought my 65C, I thought it wasn't draining, even pulled and cleaned the filter a couple of times. I finally discovered that I just wasn't pulling hard enough. Now, I pull the ring until it feels like it has stopped, then pull some more. It won't break. Maybe. YMMV. BTW, when the fuel drains using the inside drain, it drains the sump from the tank selected, i.e. left/right. It doesn't seem to drain anything with the selector in the off position. It's not difficult to inspect/clean the filter, but it wouldn't hurt to have your local A&P show you how. Ken

I have used the 796 since it first came out. If I had to decide again, I would not spend the money, or the subsequent expense for upkeep. Not to mention the price of the MX weather function which is around $49 a month if I recall correctly. The Garmin, for my flying requirements, is just not worth the money. I use the IPad with ForeFlight which more than fullfills my needs. Any issues have been primarily with the iPad overheating and not maintaining a charge on a long flight.

Have you tried a different mouse?

I replaced the servo last year from Brittain. You can no longer buy just the boot. If I recall correctly the cost was around $160 and I had to send the old core back to Brittain. HTH. Ken

On laptops "without a number pad" you will usually find there really is a number pad although it is associated with the function (Fn or blue ) keys. As far as I know there is no convention but usually the number 0 will be found on the m key, the 1 on the j key, etc. To lock the keypad functions a usual keypad lock would be press and hold the Fn key then press F11. To unlock press Fn plus F11 again. Once the keypad is locked the alt + keypad keys will give you the characters. HTH - Ken

Thanks to all for the suggestions! I finally decided to try to remove the seal and adhesive with the door on. The seal was no problem, of course, but I have worked for two days (only three hour days, the wife won't work longer than that) on the adhesive and almost have it all off. What a job. It would have been much easier with the door off,

Can anyone help with the procedure to remove the entry door from a 1965 M20C. What looks to be straight forward isn't. I have removed the screws (outside), washers and nuts (inside) from the forward side of the hinge and the hold open arm from the door but the hinge still won't budge. Obviously I am missing something; any ideas please?

Thanks so much for the information and pictures. I have an appointment in June to have the left tank sealed. We plan on staying the week at one of the local lake resorts. We have not made any reservations yet. Does anyone have a recommendation?