jcolgan

Disagree. Granted, good tools make a job go quicker and are less likely to fail during use, so less likely to round a bolt or damage a part. But to say quality work can not be accomplished by a financially struggling but conscientious mechanic is not realistic. Everyone has to start somewhere and some of the finest mechanics I know started off in a barn with old rusted tools and worked their way up over the years to Snap Ons as they progressed. Start off sloppy, usually going to produce bad results. Start off cheap, can go either way. With the proper motivation it can be just fine.

how long has it been since the fuel system was last opened? Like the gasculator being cleaned and inspected during annual. Could it possibly be some air that was entrained somewhere in the system shaking loose and going through the pump.?

I recently ran across a YouTube video which touched on the topic of runway separation. I am based at a non-Tower airport and have always believed that you did not take off or land on a runway with another plane on it. Do the regulations about runway separation apply at uncontrolled airports? Our runway is a little over 6000 feet long and has a little hump to it, so if I can’t see another plane on the runway when I’m on the ground, they are beyond the hump and therefore beyond 3000 feet, so I shouldn’t need to wait to depart for landing traffic to exit. if I can’t see them (they are past the hump) there is enough room to safely depart, and it appears to be within regulations. I often thought that it would be safe, but I’ve never done it because I thought it was not allowed. There are several commercial operators who try to save their brakes by slowly rolling all the way to the end of the runway before exiting. I just want to make sure I’m not violating any rules because some of them might not respond well to my departure announcement.

I have a 6 and probably won’t upgrade until they make a mini with facial recognition and/or a brighter screen.

When I had mine painted I was told I would have it back in 6 weeks which is longer than I like to let it sit idle, but I didn’t take any preservation actions. They actually didn’t get my plane finished for a few days 5 MONTHS. I was livid (and they didn’t do a particularly good job to add insult to injury). It has been 9 years ago and no metal in the oil filter or rust seen as cylinders 3 and 4 were pulled years later for non corrosion issues. I was using Camguard during the paint job and still do now. This is all with the humidity we have here in Alabama.

Where is this cotter pin? I am ready to start this project and would love to be able to open the door further. 1964 M20C. Parts manual is no help and visual inspection has not yielded a way to disengage the door slide, but I haven’t looked under any of the interior or door trim\fabric.

this is my iPad Pro 11 ram EZ roller mount. I drilled as many ventilation holes as I thought I could get away with and not interfere with structural integrity. I have also modified the bend at the top to accommodate an iPad Pro 11 2024 version as they have not yet put out a ram mount for it. This was originally for a 2016 iPad Pro 11. the 2024 version is approximately 66% brighter in direct sunlight, but is also approximately 1/10 of an inch taller.

I don’t recall it ever happening. I have an EZ roller Ram mount on the yoke. I did modify the mount to allow air to circulate on the back while in the mount. Took a step drill bit and perforated the back of the Ram cradle. Holes of varying sizes to expose as much of the back as possible. I have done this with mini iPad and iPad pro 11. I supply external power continuously.

Weigh the seat and enter the negative of that weight in the calculation.

I am going to pick mine up from Eddie at Wet-wingologist this Thursday. Flying down on Delta in just a few hours. Had to have my drain AD done and some issues caused by a previous owners patch job corrected which drove the price up from the original quote. Does anyone know the punch code for the walkthrough gate at the corner of the Wet-wingologist hangar?

I’ve taken out a significant scratch with Aeroglaze and a lot of elbow grease. It was deep enough there is a little light distortion in that spot, but you only notice it if you know where to look.

My Foreflight subscription is set to auto renew soon. They kindly sent a push notification about it at 13 minutes after midnight last night. I have notifications from the program turned on for fuel timers and such, so I don’t want to turn it off, but I find that their timing was less than optimal for that particular non-urgent notice. Does anyone know of any subscription discount codes that are in effect at this time? Or perhaps a way to get a veterans discount?

My plan. Just occurred to me that there might be quite a bit of traffic squeezing between those two bravo class air spaces.

I’m VFR and planning on flying right down the center of the state. Considering making it an early flight, around 6 AM to enjoy reduced traffic. Using airways never occurred to me.

The flight through A-292 was a non-event. Didn’t see any traffic until hitting the C airspace, which was quite busy. next adventure is flying down to Wet Wingologist in Ft Lauderdale for my July tank reseal. That looks to be busy airspace. plan on trying for an 8 AM arrival before things get crazy busy.

I am planning a VFR flight from North Alabama down to KPNS, Pensacola, which means I have to fly through Alert Area 292. Thursday around noon. No way to avoid it. Never been in an alert area before, other than flight following and keeping my head on a swivel any words of wisdom?

When I transmit the feedback I hear of myself has considerable noise/static if the engine is under load. I have been told the noise is not being broadcast, so it is an annoyance to me but not an actual communications problem. I still have a generator which has what I believe is a small old capacitor attached. The electrical drawings don’t seem to show this capacitor and so I have no part number. Any thoughts, drawings or information would be appreciated. 1964 M20C.

My collar was center drilled, no adjustment possible by flipping the collar. The service bulletin spacer moved the center of the nose wheel axle aft about 7/8 inch. She taxis better post install. Brand new shock biscuits bulging out with the preloaded compression caused by the spacer.

My understanding of things, if your steering pivot point is in front of your ground contact point, friction with the ground will tend to cause the contact point to fall in line behind the pivot point producing a straight rolling tendency. If contact point leads pivot point, friction will cause any turn, if uncorrected, to be amplified and be inherently unstable. The tire contact with the ground needs to be aft of the nose gear turning point to be stable.

Compression tool and spacer are both in transit headed my way. The new disc stack was a bit taller than the old ones, but the plane had been sitting up on jacks for over a week by the time the old discs got removed so they had ample time to expand. Some of my old discs on the nose were from 1981, the mains were from 1969. I sure hope the new ones are both taller and more pliable. The spacer is only 0.12 inch thick, but it is much closer to the pivot point so the tire contact point should move aft several multiples of that. Assuming the drawing is to scale, I think the contact point should be moved aft by in the neighborhood of 5.2 times the spacer thickness, so maybe 0.624 inch. If that close to correct, she might just taxi better that she ever has after this!

I got all my shock discs changed and then taxi tested. The new disc on the nose wheel moved the contact point with the ground far enough forward that it is now unstable at high speeds. Not stable in a straight path at all. I have purchased the spacer from Lasar and it is in route to be installed. Anybody have any experience with this? From the service bulletin if the center of the nose wheel shaft is more than .06 inch forward of the plumb line you need to shim. Looks to me like mine is about 3/8 of an inch forward of the plumb line with the new discs in place. Wondering if that shim is going to be enough to get it down to less than .06 inch.

I am scheduled for a reseal at Wetwinologist Ft Lauderdale this summer and am trying to plan out everything. Is it necessary to drop the plane off at Banyan or is that only if you can’t arrive on the date you’re supposed to? It looks like it is a short drive or long walk to the tri-rail train station to get down to MIA to get back home. Is it a safe area to walk or should I just get an Uber? Safe to leave Bose headsets and Stratus in the plane, or remove all valuables? I was told it would be outdoors a few days during the leak check. Any pre or post work measures advisable? I assume a good coat of wax to help seal against the salt air and abrasions would be good. Fuel cap seals are good as sitting out in a few rain showers seems inevitable. Anything else? Saw the recommendation to have the sump drains replaced. General consensus that’s a good idea to do at the time? I have one original and one that’s been replaced and both are working fine. Any information or lessons learned would be appreciated. I just replaced all landing shock discs and normally land well, so am hopeful I can do this once and have it last the rest of my piloting years as me and my M20C are both close to being 60 years old.

I am in north Alabama. Is anybody reputable doing Mooney fuel tank sealing closer than Ft Lauderdale?

I also fly a 0-360-A1D and will use a little carb heat to even EGT temps, also pulling the throttle off of full a bit helps get a more even mixture, with the throttle plate causing eddies in the air flow (or thats how I think it works anyway) Often I am able to slowly push the carb heat back in after the temp spreads have decreased and they will stay that way.

Thanks, but I am in North Alabama. When I posted above that the email didn't work (my copy paste error caused that problem) a scammer sent me a phone number and tried to get me to venmo $. Be careful out there.