AZOutlaw

Problem solved. I was trading emails with Jason at CAV ice and after disconnecting the TKS lines to the switch, we still had a high pressure light. Jason said we could send it in for a rebuild so we went to figure out where to cut or disconnect the wiring. I was a little confusing as the wire diagram shows 2 wires, the switch has three. I'm going to assume the NO wire just dead ends in there somewhere. Long story but we pulled on one of the wires and it came right out. Pretty sure it was chewed up as I probably got a hitchhiking mouse sometime during my travels this summer. I bet that was one hell of a ride!! I connected the two ends and the light is off. Now just need to go back and solder together. Thanks for all the help and comments. A big thanks to CAV. They really are an exceptional resource!! Happy Flying, Sonny

It's been around awhile but I only buy the 2.5 Gal bottles so I don't have a big drum of it. I live in AZ and we rarely see ice!! I dumped in a new bottle the other day and ran a good portion of that out on the ground thinking that might be the case. The stuff in the tank has been in there a couple of years but it was down to about 3 gallons. I'll admit, I don't run it monthly as CAV suggests as I hate the clean up and the dripping in the hangar for the next 2 weeks. Anyone know what "Minimum Dispatch" refers to?

I have a continuous High Pressure light on the TKS panel. CAV Ice's recommendation is to change the filter, which we did, with the same result. I have tried the reset button and it does shut the light off occasionally, but not always. If it does go off, it comes back on soon. I've run a couple of gallons of fluid through the system recently as well. Any thoughts on what to check next? I'm guessing it's a bad pressure switch, but while I do have wiring diagrams for what seems to be all Ovations, I can't find anything that has the TKS wiring included.

Update......We got a new gear up limit switch and the Ovation version is about 7 times more expensive than the M20J version noted above. After removal I tested the 1-2 and 4-5 NC contacts on the old switch. The 4-5 set didn't ring out, unless I tapped on the switch. Fairly certain that was the problem. We're heading back today to jack the plane and swing the gear just to be certain all is in the right place. We did measure the exact location of the old switch before removal, but seems best to be sure as it could activate and shut down the motor sooner, or later. Thanks for the help Skip!

Hi Skip, Just to refresh, I've had a gear retraction failure 4 times now and each time it was on very bumpy runways. Each time, it eventually does come up. After we cleaned, lubed, and adjusted the emergency gear lever all seemed good for a few months. I then found another bumpy runway yesterday and the gear didn't retract. The override doesn't do anything so I would assume it's not the airspeed sensor. I would guess that microswitch, mentioned above, could bounce to a closed position, and then release to its open position a little later, allowing the gear to retract. That make sense to you? Sonny

I agree completely, it does not match the symptoms. If there was a prox switch indicating the Emergency gear lever was disengaged, then maybe, but I see no wiring or indication that exists. We will get it back on the jacks and test it out. As mentioned, both times it did not retract was due to a big bump on take off. My home runway has a dip about 1000 feet down and the second was on the worst concrete runway in Iowa. Not sure what a big jar would do in take off, and why it would then go away. Thanks for the help!

Thanks jetdriven and PT20J. It does appear that the cable clamp had slid down the cable and the emergency gear was engaged, even when the handle was down and locked. When I released the handle, there was 1/2" "slack" between that and the arm it is meant to engage and the cable clamp (pic). Not sure if that was the issue as no breakers ever popped so it didn't really seem to care that the emergency clutch was activated all the time.

I have a 03 Ovation and on 2 occasions ( oth real bumpy runways) my gear would not retract until 5+ min of flight. No breakers popped. Assume up limit switch but could be emergency gear actuator. Upon inspection, it appears the red handle down and locked does not pull the lever forward (on the actuator, under the bottom panel) Am I correct that forward is Unlocked and backwards, with the spring pulling back is locked?

Yesterday I thought I was walking home. After dropping a guy off in San Diego, I went to start and heard the started spin, but it wouldn't engage. Removed the cowling and noticed the solenoid mounted to the top could be slightly twisted and moved by hand. Not where it's bolted on, the back end where the cables are connected. After jiggling that around, I tried the key again and it did engage. I hoped it would still be happy when I got the cowling back on, and it was, so I flew home instead of walking. Is this a sign only the Solenoid is bad or is the whole unit going out? I've looked for the solenoid online and can't really find it alone, except for the ebay used parts guys.

I finally made it back to the hangar with my voltmeter. The #1 battery was totally dead, like 0v dead, while in the plane. (#2 was at 25v) I took it out of the plane and it slowly started to come back to life. It had about 6v in it when I left. It will go on a charger. The NO relay was also closed all the time with no power. It also had 2 blown 5a fuses connected to it. I'm fairly certain it's a bad relay. My mechanic and I decided what to order and now we wait a few days until it comes in. I'll post a final update later. Thanks for all the help and happy flying!

I have dual batteries in an Ovation. Each battery has a relay mounted near it. Went to fire up today and all was dead, switched to battery #2 and all was normal. I'm going to assume that the #1/#2 battery selector on the panel energizes (closes) the called relay selecting that battery. Has anyone had one of those relays go out? While running, #2 shows a normal amp charge rate. Switching to #1, the amp rate goes to zero like nothing is connected.

Hi All, thanks for the feedback. I realize I don't need the rear tail position light but I have it built in so why not turn it on. I was really just asking if anyone knows if the Nav light wiring ran through this area where the strobe light power does. We removed the old strobe power supply (where the X is) and connected the wiring for the 650 strobe/Navs. The tail strobe had a power supply in the tail but only one 28v power line off the strobe switch. There's a lot of bundled wire down below and just wondered if anyone had found a Nav circuit there.

Recently replaced the old Whelan tail strobe with the Orion 500. There was no "Nav" 28v wire in the tail as the position lights are on the rear of the wingtip on the Ovation. Has anyone found a location to connect that position light lead on the Orion to the Nav circuit? Does the Nav wiring go through the bay with the batteries/oxygen like the strobe wiring does? I have a bundle of zip tied wire in there but we didn't want to cut it all loose unless we knew the Nav Circuit was there.

I had the same issue earlier this week. I was doing the pressure feed from the top, then the pump/hold/bleed thing with my wife. I was told to feed the pressure up from the bottom so thought I would try that. I then got to thinking that I would get air back in the line when switching sides. Took another trip to Ace and I hooked my pressure pot to both sides, pumped it up, opened the bleed valves. The fluid moved slowly but after fluid started flowing here came the bubbles. Closed the bleed valves, tested the brakes and they were rock solid on the first try.

There are a few locals in the area who will do owner assist annuals if you want to save a ton of money. Been flying a Mooney based just over the hill from Prescott for over 10 years and never had trouble finding a guy. When you get closer, I could round up some names or see if the guy I know is interested in going over there. Welcome To AZ!

Thanks for the feedback. It turned out to be a torque issue. I took a few pictures of the new pads and they have very minimal clearance from the rotor. (like none!) The specs called for 75 to 90 in lbs. I'm always a more is better guy so I set the wrench at 90, and the wheels wouldn't turn. Today I backed the bolts off and the wheels spun freely. I then tightened to 75 in lbs and the wheels just started to stop free wheeling but would still roll. All seems good and a couple of trips down a runway will have them free again. I realize I change pads more than most of you, but an Ovation is quite a bit heavier than many of the planes out there too. (my last plane was a D) My pads are typically good when I swap them out, but with some oil leaking they were not this year. As I mentioned before it's inexpensive and easy to do, so why not. Thanks again for the help!

Thanks Guys, Pads are correct (but the Rapco Version) and calipers were removed to get new O-rings, and thus, compressed all the way in. I don't replace pads every annual but most of the time as they are inexpensive and easy to do. This year the seals leaked when it got cold so the pads were a mess and it needed a thorough cleaning/replacement. The only thing I can think to look at is the rods ( I think the call them anchor bolts) I'll pull them off and make sure they are shiny smooth and slide easily.

I have the dual puck brake system and typically replace brake linings every year at annual. Each time we put the new brakes back on the plane, they are "locked up." I can turn the wheel some (with great effort) but they are tight! We looked this over and can't figure out why. Anyone have this issue? Do I need the shim insulators between the two plates? One question on bleeding. I did the pressure pot thing on my previous D model. That system still work on an Ovation?

@LANCECASPERI've been told, and you mentioned, that the power supply gets removed when going to LED's. I assume the wiring connects where the Power supply is removed, right? I can't seem to get a wiring diagram but would guess that the + and - inputs connect to the outputs and one of the outputs is the sync, which connect together.

Currently doing the annual and we tested the TKS yesterday. I had a low pressure flashing red for a long time and then found fluid leaking from the filter canister in the belly. We removed and inspected and then reinstalled and eventually got the fluid flowing, without the leak. Question is, how often should that filter be replaced, and where do I find one? I'd also be interested in others tricks or ideas to get things flowing. I've learned that the low pressure light will flash forever, and the system won't prime, unless you toggle the windshield switch a few shots to prime. I also get the high pressure light on after the low pressure light quits flashing. Is "high pressure" telling me that all is good or that it's too high?

Hi Carusoam, My previous '65 M20D had the push to start and now the '03 Ovation has it too. For some reason they had it.....and then went back to it. We're on the same track as I tried electronic cleaner and also didn't think it could have enough cycles to wear it out. Even after cleaning, I have to turn and push very hard and fast and still only get contact every 3rd try or so. I sent an email to Lasar but with it being the weekend, might not hear back right away.....and I did ask about a rebuild. It looks like an easy fix as on the back of the whole thing there is one screw, give it a 1/4 turn and unplug the connector, and you have it out. Thanks for the response!

Thanks Hypertech. That looks more like it. I'll contact Lasar and get the right one, and report back any findings.

My Ovation has a L - R - Push to start ignition switch that uses the Medeco key. It's been getting harder to make contact when you turn and push and acts like it's getting worse. I unscrewed the cap and pulled it out of the back of the panel and it looks very different from the Bendix version available at Spruce and Chief. Any ideas what ignition switch I might have?

Richard, I hope you enjoy the plane as much as we all did for all these years. I attached a picture I just found from when my brother in law first got it......before he was even my brother in law. Note the date. (I'm also NOT the sharply dressed guy in the Christmas sweatpants!!) Last thing I forget to mention. I always liked the unique N number but there are very few controllers anywhere who get it right. Put a pause in there, Mooney 788...78, and they always get it. Happy Flying!!

Thank You Vance. I saw that note but since I didn't have the "fast response" version I had no ferrule to measure off of. I had I call into Electronics Int. and they did call back late yesterday. They told me the end of the probe should be as close as possible to the center of the exhaust pipe. The reason I was asking this is I was still having jumpy readings with the brand new probe. I did some digging under the dash this morning and found more of the fabulous crimp connectors that were loose. I would sure suspect that all will be good when I fire it up this time.