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skyjump

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  • Reg #
    N111MM
  • Model
    M20L/R

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  1. Hi my IO-550 also developed this fuel leak at the fuel pump right by the mixture linkage. Do you remember exactly what it took to repair it? Was it just the replacement of the one O-ring shown below? Also, did you have to send the whole pump out or was it fixed on the plane? lastly, how much did this set you back? thanks!
  2. Here is the link to my dropbox zip file of the travel board scans if anybody is interested. I'll also attach it to this msg. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20729346/travel boards.zip travel_boards.zip
  3. I acquired this plane about 11 years ago when it was still a porsche mooney and enjoyed flying it for about a year or so before I was "forced" to convert it to an "ovation" with the conti IO-550 engine plus many other changes / elective mods. I truly miss that engine and it's FADEC. It was smooth like a turbine and easy to operate like your automobile. cold/warm/hot it started like a car, just turn the key and she fired up.,, no 3 handed scamble playing with mixture, throtle, starter switch. It wasn't as fast as what I have now but I would go back if I could. another nice feature was that it had no cowl openings in the front so I could cut the throttle at altitude to idle and push the nose over without shock cooling the cylinders. the fan behind the engine pulled in just enough air to cool that it needed from side openings. As far as the scans go... I dissambled the boards into it's components so scanning the aluminum scales became easier. the wooden handles which already had screw holes in them made them easy to just screw them down onto the plywood and use them as templates for the router to follow along. I have access to an outfit that can actually copy the handles and CNC machine cut them into aluminum or teflon, etc. But that would be very cost ineffective for just one or a few of these. You would need to produce a large quantity in order for it to make financial sense.
  4. thanks for the kind words. as far as making more of them for selling I don't believe I would be interested in doing that just because it was so time consuming and tedious. besides I would feel guilty charging anything besides the material cost which was rather cheap. $20 for the wood, about $60 for the metal and I had a friend print the scales for which he didn't charge me anything but I imagine it wouldn't cost too much at Kinko's or alike. It took me about 20 hours to complete them from scratch but about 25% of that was for the scanning/ photoshop and a few hours running around getting the materials. so if someone has easy access to materials and a shop (cut metal, wood) and I provide the scans then they could knock it out in half the time. as far as model compatibility is concerened, the ailron/flap and rudder boards are for all models. the elevator is for L and later long body models. I do not have the scans for the shorter body elevator.
  5. hey everyone, I just went through rigging my M20L/R and had a heck of a time finding someone to rent me the boards. Mooney wants $2000 for the set!!! forget that. so I finally rented the set from Wilmer which cost about $200 including shipping both ways (after promissing him the world that I would return them - apparantly people rent and never return these) and decided to duplicate them and not have to beg in future... granted I'll prolly not need them again for a long time. Anyway, it was a huge pita but I did duplicate them and just so you know I drive myself nuts as to how nit picky I am so trust me when I say they are identical to the original. attached are photos of the copies next to the original. I believe mine are better since I used better wood than the factory (they use 3 layer oak plywood whereas I used 5 layer russian birch) and are stiffer and more dimensionaly stable... and better looking too. I scanned the scales 1:1 (confirmed) and had them printed on vinyl (similar to what is placed on cars, signs, etc) and laminated too. I cut aluminum as the substructure for the vinyl. used the existing handles and a quality router and made exact copies of the handles. got some "L" aluminum support pieces for the back (even though my wood didn't really need it since it is much stiffer that the factory wood. Their's will snap in half without the "L" support pieces). I assembled everything together which you have to be very exact about to make sure everything is right on. if something is off 1/32" at one end it will translate to several degrees error at the other end. finally I verified my copies are accurate by comparing them with the originals on my airplane to ascertain the same readings. And before anyone asks I am sorry but these won't be leaving my hanger anytime soon so don't bother asking. HOWEVER, I am willing to upload them to this site if possible or email anyone who wishes my scans as a starting point of duplicating these. you would still need the handles to copy which I can't scan (too big). I cleaned up these scans with photoshop and they are ready for print.
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