EricShr
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The engine monitor is a JPI 700 FYI.
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Hi fellow M20R pilots, Took off Friday at 109 degrees in Mesa, AZ. I answered my own question. This time, I used the low boost after takeoff. The cylinder temps rose to 425* on cylinder #3 at 500 ft. prior to the boost pump. I then engaged the boost pump. Immediately, the EGTs all dropped 200 degrees, but the cylinder head temps did not budge, even after reducing the manifold pressure to 21" and RPM to 2300. So obviously adding boost DOES add fuel, but just not enough fuel! Climb was a miserable 200 FPM. It ran smooth. All baffles are sealed, chafe seal is tight, timing is correct. Slowly the temps began to drop upon reaching 4500 ft. Time to turn up the fuel flow to 31 gal/hr like the "N". PS, the old stock cylinder temp gauge never exceeded 400 * Also, the Switch Cap Housing on the Left side of the pilots yoke containing the A/P disconnect and trim FRACTURED in half - I HATE the heat! So, anybody who has made that cap housing from the 3D printed file and has the capability - I am interested.
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Hi, I'm seeking advise from other Southwest Mooney Ovation owners on how to deal with VERY high cylinder temps on climb out at VERY high OATs (110-115). I have an Ovation 1 that has been converted to 310HP/2700. Fuel flows at takeoff are 27.5Gal/Hr. with GAMI injectors. Runs excellent LOP, idles at 700. At startup runs like crap with boost on and smooths out as soon as pump is switched off. At reasonable OATs, no issues with cylinder temps. My question is: will adding low boost during the early climb (5-10 minutes) with WOT or even reduced power/RPM add enough /any additional fuel to the cylinders to help mitigate the high cylinder temps? Or is there no or negligible effect? I have read that adjusting fuel flow to that of the N model engines (31/gal/Hr) is the only method mentioned in other posts. What is the collective opinion? Thanks, Eric
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Hi, does anybody know the proper size (diameter) of the oil drain hose needed to fit over the stock quick drain nipple of the Ovation? I want to "permanently" safety wire the hose onto the nipple and tie it off in a reasonable access position on the lower engine mount to hit an oil bucket without making a mess. Anybody have a picture of how they did it? Thanks, Eric
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Hi, looking to buy an MSE/Allegro, Encore (at least 1000 lb useful), Eagle/Screaming Eagle or Ovation to replace my micro-burst damaged Mooney (hangar door fell on it). I've owned the Mooney since 2001. I prefer the newer round window style, 28v. IO-390 replaced - awesome. Prefer low to mid-time, tanks recently resealed, prefer no Moritz gauges or replaced with JPI / etc. no corrosion. I know Mooney s and their maintenance pretty well ( I do most of it). Cash buyer. I am located in Mesa, AZ. Want to put into service by Dec 31st. Thanks, Eric S 480 862 4658
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I finally have the plane flying hands off - it WAS the differential flap trail causing the roll - flying hands off now. Took 4 test flight /adjustments to dial it in. Still cruising with ball showing slight Left slip in cruise flight.
Question: If I jack the aircraft level with the ball centered, and prove the floor / instrument panel is "level" by measurement to begin. Because the ailerons are linked to the rudder via springs, if I bias the rudder to apply Left rudder pressure with the rudder heim joint, should that "fix" my caddywumpus cruise flight? Or will it just make my rudder pedals not line up?
Thanks, Richard
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Like all the other controls, you center them by trimming them. if the rudder is off in cruise, you need to trim it by bending the trailing edge. Before you do that, make sure your bubble is leveled. Level the plane by putting a level on the seat rails and using diferential tire pressure (or jacks) to get it level. Then adjust the instrument for centered ball. The turn coordinator usually has slots for mounting holes.
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M20C flight control rigging travel boards in PHX?
EricShr replied to EricShr's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Hi Folks, so I have obtained the travel boards and found that my right aileron is 2 degrees high (-2.0) when compared to the flap (which is set at "0") - explains my right roll tendency. So, from what I understand, in order to "adjust "the heim joint length (retract 1 turn?) at the bellcrank (to deflect the aileron downd 2 degrees), I must first unfasten the distal heim where it attaches to the aileron, and unfasten the heim in the belly in order to rotate the bellcrank / get access to the vertical thru bolts holding it at the bellcrank. OR can I access the locknut on the heim attached to the bellcrank (thru the wing access panel while everything is still attached) and loosen the aileron rod in the belly and just turn it (1 turn in ) to pull the aileron "down 2 degrees"? Richard - I got the shock discs finished!!! -
M20C flight control rigging travel boards in PHX?
EricShr replied to EricShr's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Hi, I might just need a hand with that rigging. Still have not gotten to the biscuits, as my autopilot died along with some other frustrations! Aircraft has a right roll tendency which can be stopped with a very slight Left rudder pressure at cruise - to get ball in the exact center. If I correct with just aileron, the ball is just ever so slightly out of center to the Left. You might be on to something with the flap stops. -
Hi, anyone in the PHX area have a set of set of Mooney flight control rigging travel boards that I could rent or borrow? My M20c is wanting to roll to the Right with hands off in level flight WOT. I finally had enough with the old Brittain autopilot pulling to the right (never found the vacuum leak) - so I disconnected the aileron servos, but it is still pulling to the right and is obviously out of rig. In flight, the the right aileron appears a degree or so higher than the left when compared to the flap.
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Hi, anyone in the PHX area have a set of set of Mooney flight control rigging travel boards that I could rent or borrow? My M20c is wanting to roll to the Right with hands off in level flight WOT. I finally had enough with the old Brittain autopilot pulling to the right (never found the vacuum leak) - so I disconnected the aileron servos, but it is still pulling to the right and is obviously out of rig.
In flight, the the right aileron appears a degree or so higher than the left when compared to the flap.
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Hi, anyone have a working servo that they can part with - specifically the 204130-x-x from the BI-706 system? Its the elevator pitch servo. Thanks In advance, Eric
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I have had the Lightspeed PFX headsets for about 2 1/2 years and about 150 flight hours. They have FAILED on 3 separate occasions. I consider them to be totally unreliable. The first failure was "hard" rendering the headset unusable even in "passive" mode. The second and 3rd failure - appears to be the computer board. We will see how Lightspeed Customer Service treats me. I want them to overnight a new headset this time, or refund me my purchase price. This is the second time that I will miss using them in a major aviation event (Mooney Caravan Formation Training). I will keep you posted.
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I have had the Lightspeed PFX headsets for about 2 1/2 years and about 150 flight hours. They have FAILED on 3 separate occasions. I consider them to be totally unreliable. The first failure was "hard" rendering the headset unusable even in "passive" mode. The second and 3rd failure - appears to be the computer board. We will see how Lightspeed Customer Service treats me. I want them to overnight a new headset, or refund me my purchase price. I will keep you posted.
